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jbk641
Oct 29, 2010, 1:48 AM
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I just saw a german training video with the background music of ACDC "big balls" and the climber was doing dead hang from two balls, each gripped in a hand...I could not find any mention of these balls as a training device so i made some.
I bought 2 softballs, drilled a hole straight through each, slid a rope through the hole, applied a washer and a knot to prevent the rope from coming through and then a figure of eight loop at the other end. I then hooked them both to a carrabiner and hung them from a bolt on my ceiling. To train I just grab them and hang.. Its quite intense and and awesome exercise for contact strength. Maybe good for 1-2 sessions a week. Hope you find this helpful.
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spikeddem
Oct 29, 2010, 2:01 AM
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Contact strength is a term describing how much of your total strength you can use immediately upon placing your hand on a hold. It's trained by campus rungs and the like, not so much deadhangs. I'm sure it's a good way to get a good pump in the forearms though. Patxi Usobiaga (sp?) also does this in Progression.
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jbk641
Oct 29, 2010, 2:31 AM
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It was Flo Murnig on Climax.tv where I saw this.
I believe that Jon Gill may have first implemented it.
Any I do agree about the contact strength. In the training they were campusing from the balls to a hangboard above it and back down...This is obviously an advanced training drill, they also were doing Iron cross and other intense body tension position while hanging on. And yes, and intense forearm pump that will ruin your climbing for a day or so after
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cruxstacean
Oct 29, 2010, 2:55 AM
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uh you lost me at "hanging from my balls"
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rhei
Oct 29, 2010, 3:11 PM
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I've been thinking about adding holds alongside or under my hangboard to exercise deadhangs from additional grips. I hadn't considered softballs before, but they would be about the size (radius) sloper I'd like to add. So my question is whether you've come up with a means of keeping the balls from spinning around the rope running through them?
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spikeddem
Oct 29, 2010, 3:24 PM
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rhei wrote: I've been thinking about adding holds alongside or under my hangboard to exercise deadhangs from additional grips. I hadn't considered softballs before, but they would be about the size (radius) sloper I'd like to add. So my question is whether you've come up with a means of keeping the balls from spinning around the rope running through them?
If you're hanging on to two of them, I don't see any issue.
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jbk641
Oct 29, 2010, 4:18 PM
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Once your hanging from them "you" have to engage your stabilizing muscles to control the rotation..But this also gives you an opportunity to hang and significantly alter your body posture via supination/pronation of the forearms. Also you hang them uneven to work lock off too.
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rhei
Oct 29, 2010, 4:21 PM
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If your hand is cupped over the top of the ball, yes, you can control spinning. However, actual holds on rock are rarely shaped like that. I'm thinking about hanging off the ball so that the tips of my fingers are close to the vertical plane and the palm is further down the face, which is a closer approximation to what I find when climbing. I'd imagine this grip angle would cause the balls to rotate.
(This post was edited by rhei on Oct 29, 2010, 4:23 PM)
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spikeddem
Oct 29, 2010, 4:37 PM
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rhei wrote: If your hand is cupped over the top of the ball, yes, you can control spinning. However, actual holds on rock are rarely shaped like that. I'm thinking about hanging off the ball so that the tips of my fingers are close to the vertical plane and the palm is further down the face, which is a closer approximation to what I find when climbing. I'd imagine this grip angle would cause the balls to rotate.
I'm still picturing a situation that wouldn't cause you to rotate as long as you've got two. Moreover, the way I'm interpretting your description really sounds like you'll be pinching the hell out of them, and not so much hanging (like off of a sloper). I guess I just totalyl can't picture what you're describing.
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jbk641
Oct 29, 2010, 4:44 PM
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Usually the grip is on the bottom of the ball but is also on the lower third..I do not grip up top by the rope. The grip is open enough the grip is really generated out the the distal fingers so it seems to really translate well to slopers,,at the same time your under it so this would translate to roofs and slopers or pincher grips.
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spikeddem
Oct 29, 2010, 4:58 PM
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jbk641 wrote: Usually the grip is on the bottom of the ball but is also on the lower third..I do not grip up top by the rope. The grip is open enough the grip is really generated out the the distal fingers so it seems to really translate well to slopers,,at the same time your under it so this would translate to roofs and slopers or pincher grips.
OK, now I'm even more lost. How are possibly gripping the lower third of a ball and keeping yourself in a deadhang?
Why not just buy some plastic slopers and hang off those? I imagine that would translate even better...
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bill413
Oct 29, 2010, 6:07 PM
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spikeddem wrote: rhei wrote: If your hand is cupped over the top of the ball, yes, you can control spinning. However, actual holds on rock are rarely shaped like that. I'm thinking about hanging off the ball so that the tips of my fingers are close to the vertical plane and the palm is further down the face, which is a closer approximation to what I find when climbing. I'd imagine this grip angle would cause the balls to rotate. I'm still picturing a situation that wouldn't cause you to rotate as long as you've got two. Moreover, the way I'm interpretting your description really sounds like you'll be pinching the hell out of them, and not so much hanging (like off of a sloper). I guess I just totalyl can't picture what you're describing.
spikkeddem & rhei: are you talking about the same axis of rotation? It's clear to me that spikkeddem is interpreting rotation as around the virtical axis (you're "twisting in the wind"), it's not clear to me that rhei doesn't mean rotation of the balls around a horizontal axis (rolling).
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livinonasandbar
Oct 29, 2010, 6:07 PM
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Section of 8"-diameter pcp pipe with skateboard grip tape stuck on it. Hang...
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spikeddem
Oct 29, 2010, 6:30 PM
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bill413 wrote: spikeddem wrote: rhei wrote: If your hand is cupped over the top of the ball, yes, you can control spinning. However, actual holds on rock are rarely shaped like that. I'm thinking about hanging off the ball so that the tips of my fingers are close to the vertical plane and the palm is further down the face, which is a closer approximation to what I find when climbing. I'd imagine this grip angle would cause the balls to rotate. I'm still picturing a situation that wouldn't cause you to rotate as long as you've got two. Moreover, the way I'm interpretting your description really sounds like you'll be pinching the hell out of them, and not so much hanging (like off of a sloper). I guess I just totalyl can't picture what you're describing. spikkeddem & rhei: are you talking about the same axis of rotation? It's clear to me that spikkeddem is interpreting rotation as around the virtical axis (you're "twisting in the wind"), it's not clear to me that rhei doesn't mean rotation of the balls around a horizontal axis (rolling).
I see. Well, to answer rhei's original question, just don't design them that way. Have them hanging from a vertical rope, not a horizontal rope...unless I'm stilllll confused.
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rhei
Oct 29, 2010, 6:43 PM
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Yeah, I was talking about a horizontal axis of rotation, but I apparently misunderstood the OP's design. I didn't visualize the rope running through the balls vertically, where you have to put fingers on either side, but rather horizontally so that the fingers could be located anywhere across the top half of the sphere.
In response to Spikeddem's question, "why not just buy some slopers?", I like the concept of the hanging balls because they can be easily attached below my existing hangboard, which is mounted over a doorway. Guess I'll just play around with the design and see what I can make.
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spikeddem
Oct 29, 2010, 7:03 PM
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rhei wrote: Yeah, I was talking about a horizontal axis of rotation, but I apparently misunderstood the OP's design. I didn't visualize the rope running through the balls vertically, where you have to put fingers on either side, but rather horizontally so that the fingers could be located anywhere across the top half of the sphere. In response to Spikeddem's question, "why not just buy some slopers?", I like the concept of the hanging balls because they can be easily attached below my existing hangboard, which is mounted over a doorway. Guess I'll just play around with the design and see what I can make.
You could try the old skateboard griptape + PVC pipe (I think it has been mentioned in this thread). Hang that from your existing hangboard with holes drilled vertically.
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bill413
Oct 29, 2010, 11:51 PM
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Dang, here I went & defused situation that could have blown into a full pissing match.
Don't let other folks on this board know I did that. I'll be banzed.
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jbk641
Oct 30, 2010, 8:19 PM
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If I may add,,,,,,,the best rope for this is static rope. I have a bolt situated directly at the top of my inclined wall. I alternatively hook my rock rings and my balls into this with a carabiner. I have a row of various handholds that are positioned at the very top of the wall from left to right with a good jug in the middle. A few drills I do are lock off lunges to each of the different holds,,all while keeping my feet on lower holds. The next one is straight arms vs locked of arm while systematically placing my feet on as many holds as i can, quietly and progressively upward on the wall.....
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milesenoell
Oct 30, 2010, 8:33 PM
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pictures? or link to vid?
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jbk641
Oct 31, 2010, 5:01 PM
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Found the video on itunes podcast. Search climbing or bouldering. Its under Climax.tv, Flo Murnig training series.
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tikkunekku
Nov 19, 2010, 1:18 PM
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A company called Lapis sells the training balls. Check:
http://www.lapisholds.com/cms/en/38-product-list/category/40-training-accessories
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jape
Nov 19, 2010, 3:19 PM
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tikkunekku wrote: A company called Lapis sells the training balls. Check: http://www.lapisholds.com/cms/en/38-product-list/category/40-training-accessories
Here's a 10 buck solution...
I drilled out holes in baseballs and softballs (even better might be lacrosse???) and they work superb.
I use them vertically (how the cord runs), but you can rotate them horizontal for a stout change of physics...something it looks like you can't do with the commercial bawlse...
One of the "scrap" balls I drilled wasn't really straight, and has a somewhat small, but interesting change in grip-might be worth goofing around with if you are really kooky about training....
(This post was edited by jape on Nov 19, 2010, 3:24 PM)
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