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meanandugly
Oct 31, 2010, 10:56 PM
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Just wondering who has drytooling in the gym the climb at?
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jbro_135
Nov 1, 2010, 12:59 AM
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a friend of mine was drytooling with the owner belaying him last time i went in, so apparently we do...
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meanandugly
Nov 1, 2010, 1:07 AM
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Are they using regular holds?
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acorneau
Nov 1, 2010, 1:17 AM
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I've heard of special dry-tooling "holds" but I can't remember form where.
I've also seen a guy that made some special pseudo-ice-axe things that had some loops of plastic-coated cable that he used right on regular holds.
Might get some good answers at the RouteSetter.com forum.
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meanandugly
Nov 1, 2010, 1:25 AM
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Thanks. I just put the final touches on a route. I manufactured hold from natural rock and put a plastic backing plate to prevent gouging the wall.
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markcarlson
Nov 1, 2010, 1:46 AM
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I have not climbed there yet, but I believe The Vsion in Canmore, AB has designated holds for drytooling. They hold a "MixMaster" drytooling competition (during the Ice Fest, IIRC.)
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olympicmtnboy
Nov 1, 2010, 5:00 AM
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Stone Gardens in Seattle has an outdoor wall section that they turn into a drytool only area in the winter (when it's wet and cold and would normally be unused).
They mount old beat up plastic holds and pieces of 2x4 on 1 foot square pieces of plywood which are then mounted to the wall, this way you don't damage the wall with your pick when hooking the top or side of a hold. They allow real ice tools but no crampons, climbing shoes only.
They have one vertical route and two overhanging routes up there right now. It makes for a good pump and is fun once in a while.
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gmggg
Nov 1, 2010, 2:35 PM
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acorneau wrote: I've heard of special dry-tooling "holds" but I can't remember form where. I've also seen a guy that made some special pseudo-ice-axe things that had some loops of plastic-coated cable that he used right on regular holds. Might get some good answers at the RouteSetter.com forum.
Nicros has a line of ultra high density holds for dry-tooling.
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jbro_135
Nov 2, 2010, 2:59 PM
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meanandugly wrote: Are they using regular holds?
Yep
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rschap
Nov 12, 2010, 6:16 AM
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We just put up IceHoldz at our gym, the plastic ones you swing at not the dry tooling holds. For dry tooling I bought a few feet of chain and cut it into individual links and then bolt them to the wall.
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meanandugly
Nov 12, 2010, 11:34 AM
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Hmmmmmmm...chains. Sounds interesting.
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granite_grrl
Nov 12, 2010, 12:08 PM
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We should pop over to the gym sometime and talk, we have a pretty decent setup of holds on our home wall.
We have some of the Woody's holds (stupid easy hooks that you can thrash around on 'cause you're not coming out), a bunch of holds made from real rock and then some hunks of lumber to fill in the gaps. We also have a few regular climbing holds that we use that were never cared for. The more they're used the better they get (read: get gorged out), but they've stood up fairly well so far.
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granite_grrl
Nov 12, 2010, 12:10 PM
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rschap wrote: We just put up IceHoldz at our gym, the plastic ones you swing at not the dry tooling holds. For dry tooling I bought a few feet of chain and cut it into individual links and then bolt them to the wall.
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meanandugly
Nov 12, 2010, 12:35 PM
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Whoa, I barely squeaked out permission from the gym owner to get up one route. I am, however, working on the 2nd route. I have to make the routes somewhat hidden amongst the regular climbing routes and had to come up with a strict set of rules if you want to climb them, but its happening :).
We have so few (not trying to belittle anyone) non-gymrats here that it makes it difficult to sell ideas like this to the management.
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Skabbi
Nov 12, 2010, 1:42 PM
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Hey
Our gym has spray-painted and put up a bunch of old holds to make dry-tooling routes the last couple of winters. Ice-tools are allowed in the gym one evening a week and during mid-day openings once a week. Good fun and hassle free.
http://klifurhusid.is/album_bis-klifur/
Cheers
Skabbi
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iron106
Nov 12, 2010, 3:31 PM
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It would seem to me that the Rock CLimbing shoes would make this too easy.?
Would'nt using your boots with no Crampons make it a little more realistic?
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Skabbi
Nov 12, 2010, 3:47 PM
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Hi
Dry-tooling in the gym in shorts and t-shirts is never going to be very realistic, boots or no boots. It is however a lot of fun and works you pump. Using small holds and edges (and not just huge jugs) also trains your sense of balance and how to pull down with your tools.
Cheers
Skabbi
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rschap
Nov 12, 2010, 8:05 PM
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granite_grrl wrote: rschap wrote: We just put up IceHoldz at our gym, the plastic ones you swing at not the dry tooling holds. For dry tooling I bought a few feet of chain and cut it into individual links and then bolt them to the wall. Is it hard to get your tool our of the chain? My husband has a string of reinforced loops of cord for figure-4 training that work okay.
This is what I was talking about. We don’t have them up right now; I just put this one on the wall for the picture. We have a piece of ½” plywood that goes under it to protect the wall. I used 3/8” chain and it is barely noticeable on the wall and most people can’t grab hold of it to hurt themselves on it.
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granite_grrl
Nov 12, 2010, 10:55 PM
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rschap wrote: granite_grrl wrote: rschap wrote: We just put up IceHoldz at our gym, the plastic ones you swing at not the dry tooling holds. For dry tooling I bought a few feet of chain and cut it into individual links and then bolt them to the wall. Is it hard to get your tool our of the chain? My husband has a string of reinforced loops of cord for figure-4 training that work okay. This is what I was talking about. We don’t have them up right now; I just put this one on the wall for the picture. We have a piece of ½” plywood that goes under it to protect the wall. I used 3/8” chain and it is barely noticeable on the wall and most people can’t grab hold of it to hurt themselves on it.
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Gmburns2000
Nov 12, 2010, 11:26 PM
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apparently City Rock in CO Springs has regular "Ice Nights" (tonight being one of them). It may be worth checking them out to see what they do.
edit to change name of gym
(This post was edited by Gmburns2000 on Nov 12, 2010, 11:26 PM)
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meanandugly
Nov 13, 2010, 12:31 AM
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Nice, I'm buying chain tomorrow.
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anykineclimb
Nov 29, 2010, 5:30 PM
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Gmburns2000 wrote: apparently City Rock in CO Springs has regular "Ice Nights" (tonight being one of them). It may be worth checking them out to see what they do. edit to change name of gym
The event has been growing steadily the past few years. next years Pro comp will require the use of crampons so that'll make things interesting!
We use mostly Morganic holds and also use the Iceholdz for the "ice" parts. These are pretty cool as you can swing into them like ice.
a patch of carpeting in placed behind all the holds to protect the wall from scratches.
drytooling is allowed pretty much anytime when theres routes up. You (and your belayer) must wear a helmet and your tools need to be leashed/ tethered. Cones are also set up at the base to warn/ keep out other climbers.
On my personal wall, I've used scrap wood and a mending plate to allow just the 1st notch in teh pick to hook onto.
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