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Pitons for winter climbing
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northcave


Nov 3, 2010, 2:22 AM
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Registered: Jul 1, 2008
Posts: 76

Pitons for winter climbing
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I have never used pegs or pitons but it seems like a good idea to get a couple as i am climbing harder routes and protection becomes a little more seldom.

Can anyone give me a nice concise guide? I.e. do they tend to be re-usable nowadays? How do you get the buggers out afterwards and i asume you're just whacking em in with the hammer on your axe?

Any advice on type, placing, removing etc appreciated.


julio412


Nov 3, 2010, 4:12 AM
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Registered: May 16, 2005
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Re: [northcave] Pitons for winter climbing [In reply to]
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Check lulu.com for a pamphlet by Andy Kirkpatrick on placing, removing, different types of pins.
Somewhere on youtube I can only imagine, can't get it here- damn Chinese.
M


summerprophet


Nov 3, 2010, 11:41 AM
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Registered: Jan 16, 2004
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Re: [northcave] Pitons for winter climbing [In reply to]
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northcave wrote:
I have never used pegs or pitons but it seems like a good idea to get a couple as i am climbing harder routes and protection becomes a little more seldom.

Can anyone give me a nice concise guide? I.e. do they tend to be re-usable nowadays? How do you get the buggers out afterwards and i asume you're just whacking em in with the hammer on your axe?

Any advice on type, placing, removing etc appreciated.

It really depends on the type of rock you are climbing.

Somewhat solid granite or sandstone is fine for standard cromo pitons, but fractured limestone typically works better for soft steel or iron pins (eg. Stubai) The softer metal bends and conforms to irregular cracks.

Sizes are also dependent upon your area.

I would suggest finding a local alpine climber who can better answer your questions.

For Washington and BC coastal stuff, I carry a few knifeblades in event of bailing. Anything else will usually take small nuts.

Soft iron pins are difficult to remove, and without an experienced hand, can be dangerous to reuse, CroMo can be reused forever.


northfacejmb


Nov 3, 2010, 11:52 AM
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Registered: Nov 1, 2006
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Re: [northcave] Pitons for winter climbing [In reply to]
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I took Andy Kirkpatrick's advice on which pitons for a basic winter rack.

Your answer, as well as many others can be found on his sight.

http://www.andy-kirkpatrick.com/...les/view/winter_rack

I have the four from the "basic winter rack" and they're all awesome and a huge part of my winter rack.


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