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losbill
Nov 2, 2010, 7:59 PM
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Jason --- Awesome list of ticks! Put a guy from Colorado on Something Interesting a couple of weeks ago. He definitely felt it was interesting.
I do enjoy climbing by headlamp at the Gunks. Way better than without headlamps. At 7 AM in the parking lot "We aren't going to need the headlamps. We are leaving early." Seriously rethought that logic as we made our way down from the last climb at 9 that night!
Birthday party and completing (Yeah!) a house project kept me home this weekend. In fact the house project has been killing my climbing time. The only recent highlight, and it was a good one, was getting out climbing with my daughter Caitlin. We used to climb a lot together. She went to Rutgers and we used to get together at the Gunks frequently.
She hasn't been out in a couple of years. We get to Crow Hill and she says that she will just belay, not really interested in climbing. That didn't last long. She got after it pretty well. Hoping for one last warm weekend so we can get down to the Gunks together.
Tony and I will be at the "Crag Not To Be Named" tomorrow if you are interested. --- Bill
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AntinJ
Nov 3, 2010, 2:09 PM
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Thanks - I have been excited about getting on Directissima for about a year and I finally jumped on it. So classic!
Bill - Glad to hear you are getting out and also having a chance to hit the rocks with Caitlin!
Have fun at F@RL$Y!
(This post was edited by AntinJ on Nov 3, 2010, 2:11 PM)
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Gmburns2000
Nov 3, 2010, 4:10 PM
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Been on a road trip: Gunks, New, St. Louis (six flags with sister, no climbing) and now CO. Went to Eldo yesterday, taking a couple of days off then maybe heading to the Sandias in NM. Not sure on that yet. We may stay local. Moab is in the mix, too.
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losbill
Nov 3, 2010, 11:42 PM
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Good day at Farley. The place is a series of boxes within boxes. Followed Tony on yet another new climb in yet another area new to me. Great fun. Still feel I am just scratching the surface of what is there.
Greg, was delayed in mailing books. They are in Maine now. You have certainly been racking up both the highway and the climbing mileage. Pretty envious. Good job on Modern Times. The old farts I climb with have told me I need to get a few more 9's under my belt and maybe a 10a or two before tackling it. Damn supportive bunch.
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Gmburns2000
Nov 4, 2010, 12:31 AM
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losbill wrote: Good day at Farley. The place is a series of boxes within boxes. Followed Tony on yet another new climb in yet another area new to me. Great fun. Still feel I am just scratching the surface of what is there. Greg, was delayed in mailing books. They are in Maine now. You have certainly been racking up both the highway and the climbing mileage. Pretty envious. Good job on Modern Times. The old farts I climb with have told me I need to get a few more 9's under my belt and maybe a 10a or two before tackling it. Damn supportive bunch.
No prob on the delay. I haven't been in Maine for weeks, so I wouldn't have noticed. but thanks for sending them anyway.
Modern Times (NO BETA SO YOU CAN READ WITHOUT FEAR!!!): you're a stronger climber than me and I found it fairly casual. yes it's overhanging and yes it's pumpy for about 20 feet or so, but you can do it if you can fight the pump...and if you're creative there are rests. I found Birdland to be technically more difficult and MT too be pumpier. Take your pick.
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jakedatc
Nov 4, 2010, 12:38 AM
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losbill wrote: Good day at Farley. The place is a series of boxes within boxes. Followed Tony on yet another new climb in yet another area new to me. Great fun. Still feel I am just scratching the surface of what is there. Greg, was delayed in mailing books. They are in Maine now. You have certainly been racking up both the highway and the climbing mileage. Pretty envious. Good job on Modern Times. The old farts I climb with have told me I need to get a few more 9's under my belt and maybe a 10a or two before tackling it. Damn supportive bunch.
Bill, I disagree. I found Modern times to be equivalent to a Rumney .9 like War and Peace or a shorter version of Masterpiece. It was way easier than I built it to be in my head. If ya need someone to lead up it let me know .. i'd do that every day if i could.
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olderic
Nov 4, 2010, 1:52 AM
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losbill wrote: The old farts I climb with have told me I need to get a few more 9's under my belt and maybe a 10a or two before tackling it. Damn supportive bunch.
Oh just man up and do it. If you're not flyin' you're not tryin'. Run of the mill Gunks 5.8
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boymeetsrock
Nov 4, 2010, 3:38 PM
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Bill, you are definitely capable of Modern Times. Pony up! 
Any of you folk headed to the Gunks this weekend? I'd like to get some climbing in on Sunday only.
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losbill
Nov 4, 2010, 8:17 PM
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Apparently all it takes to liven up a quiet thread is for me to put up a post about being a wimp!
I hear you Jake about building up climbs in your head. I do it a lot. Yellow Ridge, Son of Easy O, Bonnie's, & Birdland have all been climbs I built up in my mind as challenges far beyond what they turned out to be once I headed up them.
Eric regarding flying, been doing more of that this year than the all the falls taken in the previous 3 years. However 5 of the 7 falls have been on what Tony and I thought was Blue Angel (5.8) at Crow Hill climb during two different attempts. The other 2 were the result of a brain cramp on Ant's Line.
The Crow Hill climb definitely climbs harder than 5.8. We now believe Blue Angel is 10 to 15 feet to the left of the climb in question, starting atop of the block with the 3" crack in it. FWIW, I have attempted that line in the past but retreated due to lack of pro.
For the climb in question, go up the Outersite crack and flake, then up the ramp/gully 8', just short of the block with the crack, and look up the steep face on your right. Go straight up to bulge 15' up, work up and right (this will bring you close to the arete to the left of and above the Intertwine anchors), or go straight over (significantly harder), to a ledge. Gear is there but I get burnt out hanging on and getting it in. Move up to another ledge beneath an overhang with a small cave-like feature above it (2nd crux). Take the overhanging crack straight on or move left and up and traverse right to cave. Step up to a mantle finish. Next time any of you more experienced climbers are out at Crow Hill give it a go and let me know what you rate it.
Wyeth was thinking of heading down but it seems as if it is going to be a bit on the chilly side. I will give you a call if I do go.
Bill
(This post was edited by losbill on Nov 4, 2010, 10:06 PM)
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boymeetsrock
Nov 4, 2010, 8:31 PM
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Come on now Bill. That is PERFECT Gunks weather.  Hope you decide to go...
Anyone else game?
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jakedatc
Nov 4, 2010, 8:33 PM
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losbill wrote: Apparently all it takes to liven up a quiet thread is for me to put up a post about being a wimp! I hear you Jake about building up climbs in your head. I do it a lot. Yellow Ridge, Son of Easy O, Bonnie's, & Birdland have all been climbs I built up in my mind as challenges far beyond what they turned out to be once I headed up them. Bill
yea.. i need a list of routes like ants line, bonnies and MT in similar or slightly harder grade.
hoping to get down in a few weeks with Antin for a few days.. hopefully the weather cooperates.
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boymeetsrock
Nov 4, 2010, 9:15 PM
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You'd probably like Son of Easy O, MF... I haven't done birdland, but I think there might be some steeps on the second pitch of that one.
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losbill
Nov 4, 2010, 10:01 PM
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Jake please let me know when you and Jason are headed down. Should be able to get Bob D to head down for two days as well. It would be a good. well-matched group.
The second pitch of Birdland is definitely an overhanging jug haul. Bit more technical than the 2nd pitch of Son of Easy O. In addition Birdland P2 has a pretty cool 5.9 overhang variation. Haven't led it yet. I was following Greg when I did it. Pro appeared to be good.
Apoplexy and Higher Stannard P1 have some pretty nice overhanging, juggy finishing sequences as well. Strictley's P1 crux is overhanging and juggy and not to be taken lightly even at 5.7+. You have to hang out on overhanging terrain and get difficult to find gear in. Otherwise you are free soloing.
Now that MF has been mentioned a couple of times and Ed was talking about it yesterday I have to fess up and admit I have my eye on it. Not going to happen this year, but ...?
I wondered aloud one time why so many people had so much trouble at the P1 crux. Didn't look that tough to me. Of course no climb looks that tough from ground. The old timer I was climbing with attributed it to a climb popular with gym climbers.
Jake also think about Double Crack if you haven't done it. Despite its name the crux first 40' is an overhanging jug haul for the most part. It is an endurance fest since it, at least where I ended up, was a full 170'. Bring more runners than you think you will need. Great climb.
The first pitch of Erect Direct (5.8) is vertical, to slightly overhanging and a great pitch. I felt it climbed a lot better than it looked (Sorry Gail). Very thoughtful since the cracks slant left to right and it is overhanging so you need to work for stances for gear and rests. More jugs than crack technique. Very satisfying lead.
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jakedatc
Nov 4, 2010, 10:39 PM
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bill i'll let you know.
those sound good.
i've followed Double Crack twice now.. it's definitely pumpy even in 2 pitches . I followed Birdland way back with Jeremy leading and it is high on my list. Ed may want me to whip but he thinks Inverted layback would be good for me too haha :hides:
Erect direction looks sweet.. the rest of it is also really really tempting but seems like too big of a bite yet on gear for me. who knows.
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blueeyedclimber
Nov 5, 2010, 2:36 AM
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jakedatc wrote: Erect direction looks sweet.. the rest of it is also really really tempting but seems like too big of a bite yet on gear for me. who knows.
This is one of the best climbs in the Gunks. I love it! I have been wanting to do it again.
Anywho, does any body need a partner this weekend for something a little more local than the Gunks (either Sat or Sun)? Farley? Crow Hill? Even Ragged Mountain?
Josh
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jakedatc
Nov 5, 2010, 2:53 AM
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blueeyedclimber wrote: jakedatc wrote: Erect direction looks sweet.. the rest of it is also really really tempting but seems like too big of a bite yet on gear for me. who knows. This is one of the best climbs in the Gunks. I love it! I have been wanting to do it again. Josh
I'll do P1 and you can drag me up 2 and 3 :)
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blueeyedclimber
Nov 5, 2010, 12:05 PM
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jakedatc wrote: blueeyedclimber wrote: jakedatc wrote: Erect direction looks sweet.. the rest of it is also really really tempting but seems like too big of a bite yet on gear for me. who knows. This is one of the best climbs in the Gunks. I love it! I have been wanting to do it again. Josh I'll do P1 and you can drag me up 2 and 3 :)
If you come off of pitch 3 you'll have to drag yourself up (prussik, anyone?)
Of course I could set up a haul for your scrawny ass, but I'd probably rather make you work for it 
Josh
Josh
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blueeyedclimber
Nov 10, 2010, 4:21 PM
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Went to Farley on Sunday and finally ticked off Oosik. It's actually fairly easy as long as you don't save it for the last climb (and you are able to campus ).
Other than that, just did a few 10's. It was a little chilly. When i came down from Oosik, I swear I was on the verge of the screaming barfies.
Btw, I thought the last draw was fixed, so I only brought up enough for the face. I skipped it to the anchors. Of course, if you can power through the roof, you can pull the lip, so I guess you don't really need it.
Josh
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Gmburns2000
Nov 10, 2010, 5:15 PM
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Out in CO at the moment. We and camped at Wigwam Dome in the South Platte. Did two day's worth of climbing before doing a hike in the snow on the third day. Wigwam is a damn cool place to climb. We started out on a 5.9 corner crack that I actually enjoyed and finished on a route called Ramblin' Rose that was probably the nicest route I've ever done in CO.
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blueeyedclimber
Nov 10, 2010, 7:47 PM
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cracklover wrote: blueeyedclimber wrote: Went to Farley on Sunday and finally ticked off Oosik. It's actually fairly easy as long as you don't save it for the last climb (and you are able to campus ). And the whole route's not soaking wet... and you're not a weak-mo. GO
Yes, NOT being a weak-mo is key
Josh
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cracklover
Nov 11, 2010, 9:22 PM
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blueeyedclimber wrote: cracklover wrote: blueeyedclimber wrote: Went to Farley on Sunday and finally ticked off Oosik. It's actually fairly easy as long as you don't save it for the last climb (and you are able to campus ). And the whole route's not soaking wet... and you're not a weak-mo. GO Yes, NOT being a weak-mo is key Josh
Maybe someday...
GO
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orangekyak
Nov 12, 2010, 3:15 AM
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In reply to: I followed Birdland way back with Jeremy leading and it is high on my list.
Haven't been climbing much ... too much coaching stuff, but a high quality bouldering area is reopening here in town Jan. 1 (Governor Stables), and I'll be wrestling the pebbles once a week or so from then on. By the summer, I should be getting back on Birdland.
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jakedatc
Nov 12, 2010, 3:59 AM
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orangekyak wrote: In reply to: I followed Birdland way back with Jeremy leading and it is high on my list. Memories. I still remember grinning the whole way. P2 is a riot. Haven't been climbing much ... too much coaching stuff, but a high quality bouldering area is reopening here in town Jan. 1 (Governor Stables), and I'll be wrestling the pebbles once a week or so from then on. By the summer, I should be getting back on Birdland.
who are you again? ;)
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blueeyedclimber
Nov 14, 2010, 7:44 PM
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Took a 30 footer yesterday at Ragged. Had a piece pull and got caught about 5 feet from the deck. Phew!
Was exciting, but not something I want to make a habit out of.
I sent my second go and impressed a CT local for even getting back on it. That made it worth it.
Josh
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