Forums: Climbing Disciplines: Bouldering:
Bouldering in Fontainebleau
RSS FeedRSS Feeds for Bouldering

Premier Sponsor:

 


Jenw87


Nov 4, 2010, 6:23 PM
Post #1 of 5 (3325 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Nov 4, 2010
Posts: 7

Bouldering in Fontainebleau
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

My partner and I are planning a trip to Europe around June/July 2011, and I wanted to spend a few days bouldering in Fontainebleau.

What is the easiest way to plan this? Can you hire crash pads from anywhere or should we bring our own, or are they unnecessary? Is it easiest to camp at the crag, rather than hire a car and drive there each day? etc.

Any advice would be greatly appreciated.


ghisino


Nov 5, 2010, 5:38 AM
Post #2 of 5 (3291 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Sep 12, 2005
Posts: 247

Re: [Jenw87] Bouldering in Fontainebleau [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

I love close to bleau

some beta:

-an average sized crashpad (bd dropzone like) would cost you aroud 150 euro here. No rentals, other than maybe (maybe) a guesthouse called "maisonbleau" and a van/shop parked @roche aux sabots on saturdays and sundays only.
One pad plus a spotter can be ok for many things, as the landings are generally nice and flat.
Two pads, you can do 95% of the problems with a spotter and 80% of the problems alone.
No pads, you can still do "circuits", i.e. easier problems with a number and an arrow painted...Just need something to clean your shoes before climbing (a piece of carpet).
And of course you can ask people with pads if you can try their problem...

-free camping at the climbing sectors is prohibited and has already caused some access problems (a convenient parking slot has been shut down last year because of this...)
If you really have to do it, be as discrete and clean as possible and don't do stupid things (such as burning your toilet paper in an attempt to be even cleaner...).

-a car is the best option to see most of the forest. Keep in mind that the area is roughly 20km in diameter!!!
For a quick visit from paris though, a few sectors are ok to see with train+walk.
Renting a bike can be a bit expensive but very feasible as the forest is packed with nice flat gravel roads.
For the walking and bike options you absolutely need an "IGN" hiking map of the forest, easily found @vieux campeur sport shops in paris or in fontainebleau itself.

-the sandstone is quite soft. do not climb if it's wet, do not try to dry it with towels and chalk, do not use hard brushes. This reccomendations are more essential the southern you go (areas such as l'elephant and petit bois have a softer rock than others)

for everything else, bleau.info is the reference website.

have fun and respect the forest.
and good luck with the conditions, june/july is usually tropical but sometimes lucky cold days happen.


(This post was edited by ghisino on Nov 5, 2010, 5:44 AM)


regularjohn


Nov 5, 2010, 1:26 PM
Post #3 of 5 (3251 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Mar 24, 2008
Posts: 18

Re: [Jenw87] Bouldering in Fontainebleau [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

We rented a pad from the (super-friendly) guys at "maison bleau" last summer for 20 Euro a week. Their gite seems a very nice place to stay, although we did not do that but stayed at the campsite inside the forest ("musardiere"). The campsite is decent but rather expensive, because they have a pool, entertainment and other luxuries we did not make use of.


Jenw87


Nov 8, 2010, 1:51 PM
Post #4 of 5 (3180 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Nov 4, 2010
Posts: 7

Re: [regularjohn] Bouldering in Fontainebleau [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

I emailed Neil at Maison Bleau - He said

"unfortunately we are are no longer renting pads out unless you stay at our place, we tried it for a year and it really does not work for us."

I think we might just buy one and see if we can sell it when we're done. Thanks for the help though :)


spacemonkey07


Nov 9, 2010, 5:20 AM
Post #5 of 5 (3146 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jul 26, 2004
Posts: 68

Re: [Jenw87] Bouldering in Fontainebleau [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

You'll be bouldering in the summer.. If you're just there for a couple of days I wouldn't bother getting a pad. Since it's too hot for good friction, you won't be doing (or wanting to do) any really hard stuff and there is tons of good low, quality boulders with sandy landings which you can do.. area's I recommend (sandy with good landings)
bas cuvier (most popular sector with a lot of classics in all the grades, you'll be able to tag along with some people with a pad and do some harder stuff)
Roche sabots
roche canon

fuck this, here is a good overview http://www.zebloc.com/bleau/bleaue.php

Anyway, enjoy the magic!!

(This post was edited by spacemonkey07 on Nov 9, 2010, 5:21 AM)


Forums : Climbing Disciplines : Bouldering

 


Search for (options)

Log In:

Username:
Password: Remember me:

Go Register
Go Lost Password?
$123.30 (10% off)
$7.16 (10% off)
$13.46 (10% off)



Follow us on Twiter Become a Fan on Facebook