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PosiDave
Oct 24, 2010, 12:22 AM
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Just a heads up to anyone trying to climb Don Juan the first bolt (button head style) is loose and I am 90% sure will not hold a fall if you are near the 2nd bolt.
If anyone has info on rebolting there let me know.
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joeforte
Oct 24, 2010, 3:39 AM
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Registered: May 9, 2005
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If possible, I would put a toprope on it and bounce test the crap out of it. I would gladly replace it if permission was given to do so.
On a side note, are NEW button heads strong enough to hold a fall? It upsets me when I see areas like this getting new top anchors all over the place where there is natural pro, or other areas that get new routes put in while there are still old dangerous bolts all over the walls. I feel like the first priority should be replacing the old stuff, before new stuff goes in.
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PosiDave
Oct 25, 2010, 3:16 AM
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You can toprope Don Juan. and I did so. I didn't however bounce test the bolt. Either way the hang spins freely. and I agree. whoever is bolting and cleaning Stover I do thank them but they are doing a horrible job environmentally and safety wise. They have replaced anchors with new bolts and made them more accessible but they did nothing to the sport routes that already exist there to beef up or check bolts. |
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mingus
Nov 6, 2010, 4:24 PM
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Registered: Jun 5, 2003
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Joe, Don Juan is not my route so I don't speak for the FA party, but who needs permission to replace an old bad bolt with a new one in the same hole?
Am I out of touch with local thinking? Tomcat?
(This post was edited by mingus on Nov 6, 2010, 4:30 PM)
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tomcat
Nov 6, 2010, 6:37 PM
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No Mingus old boy...you are not...and I can get permission to fix the Don,but it's not needed,by all means fix it.
There have been a bunch of things bolted there Chris. New bolts added to Great Wall, to Welcome to Stover and to Tales. Fixing an existing route is no big deal.
Meanwhile someone who is apparently terrified of the place is counselling some interested parties that the rock at Stover is too soft for cams....lol....you can see this yourself in partners.
Mingus I hope da fuck you are working,you are way to young to retire you twit !!
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joeforte
Nov 6, 2010, 11:20 PM
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Registered: May 9, 2005
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mingus wrote: Joe, Don Juan is not my route so I don't speak for the FA party, but who needs permission to replace an old bad bolt with a new one in the same hole? Am I out of touch with local thinking? Tomcat?
Very rarely can you use the same hole when using wedge bolts, and I never have. I'd rather drill a clean new one. I'll gladly replace it next time I get out that way. I wasn't sure if there was an "official" rebolting crew down there or anything. Who is putting in all the new bolts and anchors?
Too soft for cams? No way. I've whipped on a few, and even a ballnut. It all depends on the placement. There are plenty of solid placements to be had in that rock, even with cams. That said, I do use TCUs when I climb there, which have a higher holding power due to their cam angle. I figure why not stack the odds in your favor?
(This post was edited by joeforte on Nov 6, 2010, 11:24 PM)
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mingus
Nov 6, 2010, 11:37 PM
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Huh, not having done much bolting I thought that was kind of standard... I thought it was a button head? (as in 1/4" split shank that you can just crowbar out) Then just drill the hole out to 3/8" or 1/2". Anyway, not trying to be pedantic here. I certainly don't care how shitty bolts are replaced as long as they are! Good on ya for replacing it if ya do, Joe. I might be back that way in a few weeks and if I get to Stover I would love to see some shiny hardware.
Cheers -
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joeforte
Nov 7, 2010, 12:11 AM
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mingus wrote: Huh, not having done much bolting I thought that was kind of standard... I thought it was a button head? (as in 1/4" split shank that you can just crowbar out) Then just drill the hole out to 3/8" or 1/2". Anyway, not trying to be pedantic here. I certainly don't care how shitty bolts are replaced as long as they are! Good on ya for replacing it if ya do, Joe. I might be back that way in a few weeks and if I get to Stover I would love to see some shiny hardware. Cheers -
I'll take a look at it, maybe it is re-drillable. I'm most worried about fracturing the rock around the hole, because of its high fissility.
I don't know when I'll get down there next, but I'll try to soon.
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