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nikegirl


Nov 13, 2001, 2:56 PM
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Callous Care
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Today, I saw a guy at the gym, using an true file, like for woodworking, on his hands. I've heard of this, but, don't know why it is done.
My hands are getting more calloused as time goes on. How feminine, huh? I've worked hard, a little proud of them. My question(s):
Why the file?
What's the purpose.
Are callous' good...I've ripped a few flappers off before and had to tape them.
Do you tape callous'?
In some holds, It feels like I'm going to take them all off, going to the next move.
Give me the beta, please.

T


catga86


Nov 13, 2001, 3:14 PM
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  This may be a stupid add on question, but should you rip the flappers off or leave them on?


nikegirl


Nov 13, 2001, 3:27 PM
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Good Question:
I asked, when I had my first flapper...

I cut it off...and taped it when I was climbing, for the first couple times. Letting it heal in-between.
Is that right??? I don't know...
Anyone want to answer?
T




paulc


Nov 13, 2001, 4:58 PM
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Generally people use those rough callous sanding things, kinda like a file except not quite so abrasive. The main reason for this is that if you don't wear down callouses they tend to fall/tear off eventually. So far I have managed to keep mine down by just falling off stuff and wearing them down that way (now that I think about it I am not sure if that is a good thing or not).

Flappers I find that if I don't peel them off and eat them them they just get caught and rip off later. I like to think that the eating part helps my mojo.... Ok really I do peel them off and throw them in the garbage, then tape over the flapper. If you can't live without it for the short time period after you flap then you can glue it down, with supaaaaaglue. I don't really see the point of this though. If you are climbing something hard enough that it gives you a flapper then perhaps you should take a break for a day or two to let it heal up.

I think that answered the questions, if not then....

Paul


greatgarbanzo


Nov 13, 2001, 5:03 PM
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here you got the beta:


a) If you got a flapper and is hanging from your finger you should cut it to prevent further flappering....
b) A file? jesus CHRIST!!!! you should let you callous grow and get stronger... dont file them!!!!
c) Dont use any kind of creme to soften your hands... you will be destroying all the hard work invested on your callous....
d) ALLWAYS, as fast as posible remove the chalk from the hands after climbing... the chalk dries the skin too much harming your callouses...


manboy


Nov 13, 2001, 5:19 PM
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greatgarbanzo,
a) i agree
b) if you have callouses, sanding or filing them IS a good idea because if they get too beefy (big) then they will catch/rip off causing a big nasty hole in your finger and blood all over (ie. a 'flapper') which will suck and take a week at least to heal. (that is WHY people sand/file their calouses)
c) sorry man, gotta dis-agree again. it is good to use Hand moisturizing cream. obviously not right before climbing, but after climbing or on rest days. soft skin is way more appealing to the opposite sex too, and it won't affect your climbing negatively at all, it will just keep your skin healthy thus helping it, not hindering)
d) agree (except "harming your callouses" because that isn't the reason, the reason is you don't want your skin to dry out [hense using hand lotion]).

Vitamin E helps heal your skin, so if you decide to get a hand lotion, you can get one made with Vitamin E. i use Vitamin E or Allo Vera (the actual cactus, not some cream) to heal worn skin after climbing.


Partner rrrADAM


Nov 13, 2001, 5:20 PM
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I use lotion regularly, cause I don't want hard scratchy hands. I climb regularly on the cheese grater granite of Joshua Tree, and although they end up a little raw, I suffer no ill effects from having soft skin.

I do this, cause I still hope to achieve my life long dream of becoming a hand model for the Palmolive comercials.


coach


Nov 14, 2001, 6:52 AM
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Manboy,
Agree with on using lotion. I use it on my hands each evening after climbing. I also file down callouses that are getting big so they don't catch on a hold and rip off. Hasn't effected my clmbing negatively so far. I have seen climbings with huge callouses get some nice flappers but have never experienced it myself. I also use lotion on the outsides of my big toes where I have built up some callouses. Tends to keep the sensitivity better which helps when climbing.

Climb On


jaydoc


Nov 14, 2001, 9:11 AM
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Hey, Paul, how do you like your calluses prepared? I like mine with a nice chianti and some fava beans. Jim


woodse


Nov 14, 2001, 10:27 AM
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You mean I'm not the only one who eats the dead skin..........mmm mmm good. My favorite snack at the crag.


paulc


Nov 14, 2001, 11:28 AM
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With a little salt usually, I can't usually be bothered more work to cook them up. Mmmmmmm chewy-skin-baka.

The only problem is eating the chalk. Bleaghphth!!!

Paul


hardcoredana


Nov 14, 2001, 11:54 AM
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Num-num. You guys are making me hungry!

My 2 cents: sand off the callous. If your callouses get too big, you have more of a chance to rip them off an make a flapper. Just don't sand em down too far, otherwise you'll have to wait for the new callous to grow back. This might gross you out, but my callouses get so big that I have to take em off with nail clippers. Sanding takes too long!


nikegirl


Nov 21, 2001, 10:54 AM
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Does anyone have trouble with tape staying on?
Just the basic, tape wrap around a finger...rolls. Then sweat doesn't help.
What is the best tape, to use?
Chalk also goes under the tape,too.
what to do??
anyone???


paulc


Nov 21, 2001, 11:08 AM
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Nikegirl (I'm not even going to get started on Nike today.);

Use Friar's Balsam, also called Tincture of Benzoin. It is a brown liquid that if you put in where you intend to put the tape helps (really helps) keep the tape on. Let it get a little sticky before you put tape on.

Note: I wouldn't use this stuff for crack gloves. Just for taping fingers. You are likely to look silly if you can't get the tape off the backs of your hands and then need to go to work the next day still taped up.

Paul


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