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Who has taken a real screamer ice climbing?
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Paul_W


Nov 9, 2010, 7:07 PM
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Who has taken a real screamer ice climbing?
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Who has taken a real whipper lead fall waterfall ice climbing? In another thread i asked for some advice on biners/draws for ice climbing and got some reccomendations for yate's screamers as the right draw to use. To my mind the yates sling is to be used on very questionable pro to limit the chance it rips out. I'd consider it on a micro nut, rurp, really flaky piece of rock gear, but never considered it for ice climbing.

Who has take a real whipper lead fall ice climbing? I'm interested to hear your story on the length of fall, effects on the pro, quality of survival, etc.


jt512


Nov 9, 2010, 7:27 PM
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Re: [Paul_W] Who has taken a real screamer ice climbing? [In reply to]
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Paul_W wrote:
Who has taken a real screamer ice climbing?

I once thought I was taking a real screamer ice climbing, but I was disappointed to find out that she was more of a moaner. After that, I made sure to check references first.

Jay


bill413


Nov 9, 2010, 7:55 PM
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Re: [jt512] Who has taken a real screamer ice climbing? [In reply to]
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jt512 wrote:
Paul_W wrote:
Who has taken a real screamer ice climbing?

I once thought I was taking a real screamer ice climbing, but I was disappointed to find out that she was more of a moaner. After that, I made sure to check references first.

Jay

Shocked


jakedatc


Nov 9, 2010, 8:22 PM
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Re: [Paul_W] Who has taken a real screamer ice climbing? [In reply to]
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Not ice but.... Should read Holdplease2's aid adventure...
http://www.rockclimbing.com/...post=1218624#1218624



(This post was edited by jakedatc on Nov 9, 2010, 8:23 PM)


clc


Nov 9, 2010, 9:58 PM
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Re: [Paul_W] Who has taken a real screamer ice climbing? [In reply to]
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Paul_W wrote:
Who has taken a real whipper lead fall waterfall ice climbing? In another thread i asked for some advice on biners/draws for ice climbing and got some reccomendations for yate's screamers as the right draw to use. To my mind the yates sling is to be used on very questionable pro to limit the chance it rips out. I'd consider it on a micro nut, rurp, really flaky piece of rock gear, but never considered it for ice climbing.

Who has take a real whipper lead fall ice climbing? I'm interested to hear your story on the length of fall, effects on the pro, quality of survival, etc.

As you will read by the following post its very rare to take any fall while climbing pure ice. I bet most ice climbers never fall on screws. I see guys using screamers on the first few screw on lead.


bearbreeder


Nov 9, 2010, 10:32 PM
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Re: [Paul_W] Who has taken a real screamer ice climbing? [In reply to]
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ive ripped a screwer or two on rock ...

yates are great in that they are fairly light and cheap

i have 2 cassin reusable screamers that i carry these days, heavier than yates so i keep those for cragging for micro gear


jt512


Nov 9, 2010, 10:54 PM
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Re: [bearbreeder] Who has taken a real screamer ice climbing? [In reply to]
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bearbreeder wrote:
ive ripped a screwer or two on rock ...

yates are great in that they are fairly light and cheap

It's oddly hard to tell whether this guy is serious or playing along.

Jay


julio412


Nov 9, 2010, 10:58 PM
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Re: [Paul_W] Who has taken a real screamer ice climbing? [In reply to]
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Took a sixty footer years ago on an old Chouinard screw.
Tweaked my back pretty good.
Poor belay; tools pounded into the snow on the 3rd pitch of a 6 pitch climb up in BC.Partner barndoored below me pulling me off the belay down to my last piece.


brokesomeribs


Nov 9, 2010, 11:01 PM
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Re: [Paul_W] Who has taken a real screamer ice climbing? [In reply to]
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There was a thread about this on another climbing forum last season. IIRC a number of folks chimed in with stories of epic falls up in the mountains... 50-100 feet seemed to be pretty common. One guy took a 120 footer up on some huge route in Canadian Rockies... Polar Circus or Slipstream or one of those. Just about every single one of those stories also included broken bones... a couple of the nicer guys even included scans of their X-rays of shattered legs, ankles, etc.

Steve House took an 80 footer on Mt Temple late last season and ripped 2-3 pieces of gear before the rope snagged on a flake and caught his fall.

Personally, I've never fallen on ice. But I haven't really pushed the envelope either. Maybe this season....


bearbreeder


Nov 9, 2010, 11:07 PM
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Re: [jt512] Who has taken a real screamer ice climbing? [In reply to]
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jt512 wrote:

It's oddly hard to tell whether this guy is serious or playing along.

Jay


awww dun cry now mista jay ... lol

nice to see ya cross posting attacks on threads ;)


jt512


Nov 9, 2010, 11:13 PM
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Re: [bearbreeder] Who has taken a real screamer ice climbing? [In reply to]
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bearbreeder wrote:
jt512 wrote:

It's oddly hard to tell whether this guy is serious or playing along.

Jay


awww dun cry now mista jay ... lol

nice to see ya cross posting attacks on threads ;)

You might actually be the dumbest person ever capable of using a keyboard.

Jay


tigerlilly


Nov 10, 2010, 1:39 PM
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Re: [Paul_W] Who has taken a real screamer ice climbing? [In reply to]
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A couple years ago, I saw a guy take a whipper from near the top of a pitch, with his last screw about midway. His belayer took off running backwards to take up slack. The screamer on his top screw extended full length, but the screw held firm. His crampon hit something and flipped him, so he landed upside down with his head and shoulders touching the snowpile at the base, butt still off the ground. He got up and walked away.

Kathy


mr_rogers


Nov 10, 2010, 3:04 PM
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Re: [Paul_W] Who has taken a real screamer ice climbing? [In reply to]
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No real whippers for my part, but if you poke around old issues (Jan of 2001 I'd guess) of Rock and Ice there was an awesome photo of a dude that whipped big off of La Promenade (5+) at Lake Willoughby, VT. I think he went from near the end of the pitch to near level with his belayer. Walked away from it too.

To answer your implied question:
Folks use screamers for ice because ice gear is questionable. In great conditions it's just as strong as any rock gear. In poor conditions, you can clean a screw just by pulling on it. Sometimes you don't know which is the case until you're up there starting your third screw-hole, really getting pumped, and praying that this time the screw doesn't hit air or bottom out on rock.


boadman


Nov 10, 2010, 5:00 PM
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Re: [mr_rogers] Who has taken a real screamer ice climbing? [In reply to]
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I watched that fall from a nearby climb. He actually took it twice, about 60' onto the same screw. Crazy.


gunkiemike


Nov 10, 2010, 6:50 PM
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Re: [tigerlilly] Who has taken a real screamer ice climbing? [In reply to]
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tigerlilly wrote:
A couple years ago, I saw a guy take a whipper from near the top of a pitch, with his last screw about midway. His belayer took off running backwards to take up slack. The screamer on his top screw extended full length, but the screw held firm. His crampon hit something and flipped him, so he landed upside down with his head and shoulders touching the snowpile at the base, butt still off the ground. He got up and walked away.

Kathy

No lie, I saw it too.

Now that I think about it, I've seen 4 falls onto screws in the last 5 years or so. The gear held in every case. In addition to the case Kathy mentions, one of these ripped a Screamer about half way.

It might be my imagination, but falls on ice seemed to have become more common as soon as leashless was deemed to be the "in" style.


markcarlson


Nov 10, 2010, 10:29 PM
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Re: [Paul_W] Who has taken a real screamer ice climbing? [In reply to]
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If I have them handy, I put screamers on screws and fixed pins. Usually take one or two if I think I'll need it. I climb with people who have varied opinions of screamers. Some don't use any, some use a few, and one guy has one for every screw!

The guy with one screw per screamer caught a fall where the screamer deployed, the screw held, and the leader was unscathed.

I have caught a FF > 1 fall where the leader fell placing the second screw above the belay. The first screw above the belay had a short quickdraw on it. The screw held and the leader was fine.

I also watched a guy transition onto the ice on a 15m M7 route, get pumped, and fell onto a screw that was barely above the fracture line. It had a screamer, which deployed, and the screw held. Watching it deploy was pretty neat; it was as if it were made of Velcro.


qwert


Nov 11, 2010, 8:20 AM
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Re: [markcarlson] Who has taken a real screamer ice climbing? [In reply to]
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I dont use screamers, seems like those are an american thing.

But i do not plan to fall on ice anyways. Way to many spiky things going for the ride with me Pirate

But should it happen, i simply hope that i have placed my screw good, and that this is true

qwert


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