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blueeyedclimber


Oct 18, 2010, 7:25 PM
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gblauer wrote:
Did Tiff tell you that "G" finally sent C&C? She ran up to me all excited and giggly.

(Thought you would like to know...:Wink)

Must be the beta I gave her Wink

Josh


gblauer
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Oct 18, 2010, 7:35 PM
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Re: [jakedatc] Weekend Warrior [In reply to]
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gotta be at a client site this week...bummer.


jakedatc


Oct 18, 2010, 7:36 PM
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doh.. what about sun-mon (24-25) if the weather looks decent?


gblauer
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Oct 18, 2010, 7:38 PM
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jakedatc wrote:
doh.. what about sun-mon (24-25) if the weather looks decent?

i will be in WV Frown


jakedatc


Oct 18, 2010, 7:42 PM
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Re: [gblauer] Weekend Warrior [In reply to]
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gblauer wrote:
jakedatc wrote:
doh.. what about sun-mon (24-25) if the weather looks decent?

i will be in WV Frown

that is a silly place to be.


boymeetsrock


Oct 19, 2010, 6:08 AM
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Gail, Greg mentioned that you might be out. I was hoping to meet you! I look forward to the opportunity when it arises. Have a great trip to Potrero!

What a crappy way to start off your day with the ranger call! I hope to not have that experience at the Gunks, but the more I climb there the more I think those chances are increasing. Crazy

I think I have one, maybe two (fingers crossed) more days this season. Then I may be locked in for a while. (kids on the way!)


Gmburns2000


Oct 19, 2010, 12:16 PM
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gblauer wrote:
Bummer, you took my place! Greg asked me to follow him up Modern Times. Ok, next time it's me Greg.

Ordinarily I don't go back and do routes a second time unless I'm bringing someone up the route who hasn't done it before...but for this route I'll make an exception just about every time. Holy fuck! Talk about exciting. Next year for sure.

Thanks to Wyeth for the partner, too. He was awesome. I set the rope up for him to prussic without swinging and I expected to feel the rope come tight, but after a few minutes of waiting I looked down to see half his body on the mantle shelf and the other half dangling down into space with more wind coming out of his chest than the wind farm off cape cod. Laugh it was awesome for both of us. I was really happy he'd made it up. Definitely the highlight of the season for me, maybe even the highlight of the past several years.

have fun in potrero. looking forward to the TR and pics!


sethg


Oct 19, 2010, 12:26 PM
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Re: [blueeyedclimber] Weekend Warrior [In reply to]
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blueeyedclimber wrote:
gblauer wrote:
Did Tiff tell you that "G" finally sent C&C? She ran up to me all excited and giggly.

(Thought you would like to know...:Wink)

Must be the beta I gave her Wink

Josh

Funny, I thought I heard some shrieking in Brooklyn that day...

I wish I could get out there as often as you guys. I was in the Gunks two weekend days this month and that was a lot for me! I'm hoping to get a weekday in this week or next.

I led Dry Heaves, which was my first new 5.8 lead in a while, and a strenuous one at that. I really enjoyed it in retrospect, but that traverse scared me a little, I have to say. I'm thinking it's good prep for Inverted Layback. The rest of the pitch was good fun.


boymeetsrock


Oct 19, 2010, 12:47 PM
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Damn dude, throw me under the bus why don't you? Tongue

Admittedly, I did not think I was going to make it through that overhang, as pull-ups aren't my 'strength'. I told Greg as much so he would be aware. Was definitely psyched to make it through! That thing is pretty intimidating.


Gmburns2000


Oct 19, 2010, 12:59 PM
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boymeetsrock wrote:
Damn dude, throw me under the bus why don't you? Tongue

Admittedly, I did not think I was going to make it through that overhang, as pull-ups aren't my 'strength'. I told Greg as much so he would be aware. Was definitely psyched to make it through! That thing is pretty intimidating.

heh - well, I look at it less as that and more as how excited I was to see you pull through. I mean, i think you committed a lot more to it than I did and I was very impressed at how you battled to do it clean. seriously, I was more stoked that you made it than that I did.


boymeetsrock


Oct 19, 2010, 1:29 PM
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Haha. It was definitely fun to share the stoke with you! You should be VERY proud of that lead. I would have been shitzing my pantz.


Dip


Oct 19, 2010, 4:09 PM
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Re: [boymeetsrock] Weekend Warrior [In reply to]
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you guys are killing me talking about this route in multiple threads like this. I just got back from a week of climbing in west virginia, and just broke the news to the wife that i'd be spending a week at red rocks in march, so a gunks trip right now might mean i'm living in the backyard in a tent, but i'm starting to wonder if it might be worth it.


Gmburns2000


Oct 29, 2010, 10:47 AM
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Finally got the write-up done: Getting with the Times.

Started writing my post on The New, too. Had an incredible week there. Can't wait to go back.

Currently in St. Louis on my way to CO, then maybe NM if that's where it is warmer.


gblauer
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Oct 29, 2010, 11:36 AM
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I will read this on my flight to Mexico. T-1 and counting!

We will be in EPC until the 13th. Will write it up as I go.


Gmburns2000


Oct 29, 2010, 12:20 PM
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gblauer wrote:
I will read this on my flight to Mexico. T-1 and counting!

We will be in EPC until the 13th. Will write it up as I go.

have fun gail! can't wait to hear how your trip down there goes. I really wish I could have gone down, too, so I'm going to have to live vicariously through you and mitch!


boymeetsrock


Oct 29, 2010, 7:24 PM
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Nice write up Greg! **fist pump**

Gail, have LOTS of fun in EPC!


Gmburns2000


Oct 29, 2010, 8:16 PM
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boymeetsrock wrote:
Nice write up Greg! **fist pump**

Gail, have LOTS of fun in EPC!

I tried to make the bus a little lighter this time. Laugh


boymeetsrock


Oct 29, 2010, 9:28 PM
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Smile


rangerrob


Oct 30, 2010, 9:12 PM
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You guys are all missing the start of the good rock season here in the Gunks. It's been send weather! mornings in the high 30's and low 40's, and afternoons in the low 50's. Perfect weather!


boymeetsrock


Nov 9, 2010, 12:31 PM
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Went to the Delaware Water Gap a week ago Sunday and climbed with the infamous adatesman. **gasp** The weather was gorgeous as rangerrob was saying. Perfect climbing weather.

The DWG is really a great spot. Much like the Gunks but a ‘bit’ dirtier. ;-) We climbed on the PA side. Once we dispatched with the steep approach, we started on Surprise. At 5.4, Surprise offered a nice ‘get to know each other’ climb (this being the first time we’d met.). The climb goes up an open corner on good rock. There is a small roof at about mid height. I opted to skip the mid station belay and go straight to the top. I also opted to take an alternate finish. The second pitch of Surprise is a rather uninteresting gully/ OW type feature. Instead, I moved right and continued on nice vertical rock up what felt to be about 5.5.

Next, Aric suggested we TR Chieftain (5.8 PG/R). Chieftain is a GREAT climb. The first 100’ cover interesting terrain, face climbing around and through small roofs to a short finger crack. The large roof near the top reminded me of Modern Times, minus the traverse. I didn’t pay close attention to the gear, but it does seem that this would be a serious lead.

Lastly we headed to Osprey (5.6 G @170’), where I had unfinished business. My fist time up this route I was climbing scared. Additionally, I was dry heaving above two of the early difficult sections as heat stroke was setting in.Pirate I took the lead on this one again.

The first roof and then difficult slab went smoothly this time, and I was soon at my previous high point about 100’ up. I thought I had about another 30’ to go, but upon pulling through the next roof I realized it was more like 60’. I continued up traversing under the next roof and then up the slab moves above. My rope got caught in a thin grove. I kicked it out of the groove, but as soon as I moved up a little further it stuck again.

I was about fifteen feet above the groove that was holding my rope in a death grip. I couldn’t shake the rope free! I placed a cam and, reaching for a draw, noticed I had none left. I still had about thirty feet to climb. I had the materials at hand to build an anchor, but I REALLY wanted to finish this in one pitch. I place a couple more cams and made a quasi anchor. Then I lowered myself down to the groove where the rope was stuck. After freeing it I climbed back up to the cams.

I debated for a couple of minutes as to what to do. Then I pulled out a small hex and used it as a runner on one of the cams I had placed here. I took the other two out. I was resolved to make the top. A couple more challenging moves led to easier ground and the final roof. I used the last double length sling that was over my shoulder to extend one last cam and then pushed for the summit. As I pulled around the last roof and saw the chains I was fully psyched! I’d used the whole kit, but made the top. With the last of the gear on my harness I made an anchor and brought Aric up.

If you make it out to the DWG I highly recommend Osprey. It has many cruxes and is very challenging and thought provoking for the grade. The first 30’ or so are the only give away on the climb. It puts you in a great position on the cliff with beautiful views in both directions as you climb. If you decide to do this in one pitch bring plenty of long runners (I’d suggest 3-4 4’ers) as the route wanders a little towards the top and there are 4 roofs to negotiate.



Anyone interested in climbing at the Gunks this Sat 11/13?


boymeetsrock


Nov 15, 2010, 6:09 AM
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I went back and rope soloed Osprey this weekend. What a great climb!

Anyone else getting out?


gblauer
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Nov 15, 2010, 6:14 AM
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Mitch and I spent the last two weeks in Hidalgo Mexico, climbing in El Potrero Chico.


boymeetsrock


Nov 15, 2010, 6:24 AM
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Yeah, I saw the new picture you put up. Nice send! And a nice shot by Manny too.

How is the trip going? Good weather, food, people, climbing??? How are you finding the political/ crime situation down there?



edit: spelling


(This post was edited by boymeetsrock on Nov 15, 2010, 7:44 AM)


gblauer
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Nov 15, 2010, 6:33 AM
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We arrived back in the US on Saturday.

Things are very quiet in EPC. It's pre-season and there are very few climbers (20+? from all over the world). We did not see, hear or experience anything remotely alarming re: drug cartels, violence or political upheaval. It was "same old-same old" in Hidalgo.

I understand (through Luis, who owns La Posada) that climbers are canceling their plans to climb in Mexico due to the violence that we read about in the newspapers. While I can't say what's going to happen in the future, I do know while we were in EPC it was quiet and peaceful.

I am trying to figure out how to write up my trip report; it may be a week or two before I get it out the door.


boymeetsrock


Nov 15, 2010, 7:47 AM
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Glad to hear that you didn't experience any local issues. Sad to hear that the local economy is being effected.

Definitely looking forward to the TR.

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