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estwing
Dec 23, 2002, 2:39 AM
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Are you happy with them?
If so why?
If not which boots would you get instead?
Thank you,
Sam
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tim
Dec 23, 2002, 3:34 AM
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Salomons, the blue-with-orange-wedge kind;
generally yes, but would like them warmer;
As I am more and more interested in committing alpine routes and less interested in pure ice difficulty (not that I ever got above WI5- on lead or on second, mind you),
I am seriously considering fitting a pair of the newer Vasques for warmth as I have hatched a hare-brained scheme to endanger my feet in Patagonia, Maine, and New Hampshire *all in February* and would like to retain use of some or all of my toes for March.
A frequent climbing partner of mine is heading for Ecuador to contract HAPE... wait, that's not right, he's going mountaineering. Anyways, he has been deciding between the Sportiva model (Nepal Tops? Extreme Nepals? whatever they're called this year) and the Kaylands. It would appear that, depending on your preference for warmth vs. comfort, there is an embarassment of riches for tough, light, warm boots on the market. The only problem is, they are all terribly expensive, so you absolutely must get one that fits perfectly, else you will be living with an expensive, painful mistake for many years.
So, I would recommend 'the pair that fits you best and is warm enough for your goals'. If you are shooting for hard mixed lines or La Pomme D'Or then clearly your boots should be of a different sort than for stomping around the Himalaya or Alaska.
[ This Message was edited by: tim on 2002-12-22 19:37 ]
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rockprodigy
Dec 23, 2002, 3:09 PM
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I have Scarpa Invernos. They are the Cadillac of Ice Climbing boots, however, like a Cadillac, they are very heavy, and not very maneuverable. The trend is going to lighter, more sensitive boots, just like rock shoes, but unless you're doing high end mixed climbing, the only difference you'll notice is that your feet are cold and your toes hurt when you bash them into the ice. If you're going to do mostly pure ice at a moderate level, get a huge-ass boot that's comfortable and warm...you'll have a lot more fun that way.
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tradklime
Dec 23, 2002, 10:01 PM
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Sportive Trango Ice
Light, warm, flexy ankle, and nice fearures.
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roc-ray
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Dec 23, 2002, 10:11 PM
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Scarpa Cumbre,they felt the best in the store and are awesome on rock and ice.
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jhump
Dec 23, 2002, 10:23 PM
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Two boots, 2 sets of conditions.
Koflach Arctis Expe- Mountaineering or extreme cold. In these my toes will certainly come home with me.
La Sportiva K3- Still warm, but sized tighter for better performance.
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coclimber26
Dec 28, 2002, 7:05 PM
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I have Scarpa invernos (plastic) i like them for ski touring mostly but have slogged in them before.
La sportiva nepals (leather) love em for any type of alpine/ice climbing.
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ontario_guide
Jan 2, 2003, 3:33 PM
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Scarpa Cumbre's- No complaints.
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kman
Jan 2, 2003, 4:44 PM
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Scarpa Freneys.
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pbjosh
Jan 2, 2003, 5:13 PM
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Scarpa Cerro Torre's - reasonably warm, very stiff, with good ankle mobility, a great ice climbing and spring mountaineering boot.
Sportiva Nepal Extreme's - warmest leather boot in existance, fits like a glove, climbs like magic.
josh
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polarwid
Jan 3, 2003, 4:04 AM
Post #11 of 18
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Koflach Arctis Vario...
Good and warm...a little stiff for the long slogs though
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kcrag
Jan 3, 2003, 4:34 AM
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Koflach Degre.
No complaints so far in comfort or warmth for the 12+ hour slog festivals.
However, when climbing WI, my heel comes up to an unacceptable degree. I've worked with a bootfitter and added insoles, but it's only helped a little. Seems like other people I talk to who have these boots share the same complaint.
The (expensive) solution would be custom liners.
Don't know what I'd get instead. This is my first pair of ice boots.
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jtcronk
Jan 3, 2003, 5:10 AM
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Hey there. I use both a pair of LaSportiva Trango Ice's and a pair of Trezetta TFK8000's. The Trango's are definitely better for hard stuff (>WI5), but the Trezettas are great for moderate alpine and cold weather (Alaska, etc).
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womble
Jan 7, 2003, 12:23 PM
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I second the comment about the Koflach and heel lift problems. I've taken them to a boot fitter which as helped a little, but if you pull out the liner and compare the heel of the shell to a pair of Scarpas, it's easy to see why. There is no contouring of the heel area at all.
Wish I'd gotten the Scapas now- it would be easier to correct for too much space around the ball of the foot than for an overly loose heel.
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climber1
Jan 8, 2003, 6:34 AM
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Asolo Guides. a lightweight, but stiff boot. good for slogs, water and alpine ice. would probably use something heavier for cold climates.
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venture160
Jan 12, 2003, 8:20 PM
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I own a pair of La Sportiva Makalu's wouldn't really reccomend them for vertical ice, although I have heard of them being used up to WI3 and performing well.
I've used a pair of Koflach Degres for a few outtings (rented them at the local REI) and I didn't have any complaints, at -5, and 6 degrees without windchill my feet were still warm and comfy. The only complaint I have is that during descents they can be hard on your shins as the top of the boot if not fitted properly can bruise your shins.
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alpinerocket
Jan 13, 2003, 1:06 AM
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I have used my Makula's on WI 3. Can you say sceaming calves!!!! I would recomend a stiffer boot for long pitchs above the Grade of WI2. I have a pair of Altitude Plus Tecnicas and they a great. Comfy on aprouches and solid on lead up to WI 4 I have even clibed up to 5.6 rock in them. John
[ This Message was edited by: alpinerocket on 2003-01-12 17:09 ]
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venture160
Jan 13, 2003, 1:52 AM
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Registered: Jan 12, 2003
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alpine i can imagine, that flex can be a killer
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