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currupt4130
Nov 16, 2010, 11:51 PM
Post #126 of 142
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Of course it does.
I said something to her partner, figured it would be better to let him address it.
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cracklover
Nov 17, 2010, 1:00 AM
Post #127 of 142
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Come on, haven't we all seen grigri users who pretty much *never* hold the brake strand, except to pull in slack, and always have their right hand gripping the whole device? I mean, there's a ton of really shitty belayers out there. I'm sorry another climber decked because of it, but do you need to call this chick out on the internet? With a photo, no less. I don't need to see that shit - I can see it at Rifle any day of the week.
Lame.
GO
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Arrogant_Bastard
Nov 17, 2010, 1:04 AM
Post #128 of 142
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cracklover wrote: Come on, haven't we all seen grigri users who pretty much *never* hold the brake strand, except to pull in slack, and always have their right hand gripping the whole device? I mean, there's a ton of really shitty belayers out there. I'm sorry another climber decked because of it, but do you need to call this chick out on the internet? With a photo, no less. I don't need to see that shit - I can see it at Rifle any day of the week. Lame. GO
For all we know she's pulling out slack in this photo. ZOMG!!!
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currupt4130
Nov 17, 2010, 1:36 AM
Post #129 of 142
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cracklover wrote: Come on, haven't we all seen grigri users who pretty much *never* hold the brake strand, except to pull in slack, and always have their right hand gripping the whole device? I mean, there's a ton of really shitty belayers out there. I'm sorry another climber decked because of it, but do you need to call this chick out on the internet? With a photo, no less. I don't need to see that shit - I can see it at Rifle any day of the week. Lame. GO
I wouldn't have put it up if her face was in it. I never gave her name, nor the location or date.
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jape
Nov 18, 2010, 2:25 PM
Post #131 of 142
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it looks like kind of what I call the "lazy thumb" position where if you aren't paying attention your thumb wings off...
I've paid a lot more attention and am still trying to work out the kinks in gri belaying, used to have bad habits for sure....never dropped someone and have caught a lot of falls, but it's nothing to deek around with.
(This post was edited by jape on Nov 18, 2010, 2:32 PM)
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jape
Nov 18, 2010, 2:34 PM
Post #132 of 142
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currupt4130 wrote: Of course it does. I said something to her partner, figured it would be better to let him address it.
What did you say? This is a tricky situation, last time I told someone their belayer let go with their brake a ton (ATC) the lead climber was pretty livid and I felt like a tattler....
Time before gri-gri was upside down and they were glad to have the knowledge...so I'm about .500...
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bill413
Nov 18, 2010, 3:06 PM
Post #133 of 142
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jape wrote: it looks like kind of what I call the "lazy thumb" position where if you aren't paying attention your thumb wings off... I've paid a lot more attention and am still trying to work out the kinks in gri belaying, used to have bad habits for sure....never dropped someone and have caught a lot of falls, but it's nothing to deek around with.
Your thumb wings off if the GriGri starts to catch. Not guaranteed without resistance on the brake strand.
A better way to execute this technique is to have the rope held in the same hand that is holding down the cam.
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jt512
Nov 18, 2010, 6:01 PM
Post #134 of 142
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bill413 wrote: jape wrote: it looks like kind of what I call the "lazy thumb" position where if you aren't paying attention your thumb wings off... I've paid a lot more attention and am still trying to work out the kinks in gri belaying, used to have bad habits for sure....never dropped someone and have caught a lot of falls, but it's nothing to deek around with. Your thumb wings off if the GriGri starts to catch. Not guaranteed without resistance on the brake strand. A better way to execute this technique is to have the rope held in the same hand that is holding down the cam.
It's not clear to me from the picture what she's doing with the other fingers of her "brake hand." If she is holding the body of the grigri with them, then what she is doing is flat-out dangerous. Her thumb won't be forced off the cam if the climber falls. On the contrary, accidents have occurred using this very "technique" when the belayer instinctively clamped down on the cam with her "brake hand" in response to a fall.
Keeping the thumb of the brake hand on the cam is safe only if you are continuously holding the brake side of the rope with the same hand.
Jay
(This post was edited by jt512 on Nov 19, 2010, 7:24 AM)
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jape
Nov 19, 2010, 3:13 PM
Post #135 of 142
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jt512 wrote: bill413 wrote: jape wrote: it looks like kind of what I call the "lazy thumb" position where if you aren't paying attention your thumb wings off... I've paid a lot more attention and am still trying to work out the kinks in gri belaying, used to have bad habits for sure....never dropped someone and have caught a lot of falls, but it's nothing to deek around with. Your thumb wings off if the GriGri starts to catch. Not guaranteed without resistance on the brake strand. A better way to execute this technique is to have the rope held in the same hand that is holding down the cam. It's not clear to me from the picture what she's doing with the other fingers of her "brake hand." If she is holding the body of the grigri with them, then what she is doing is flat-out dangerous. Her thumb won't be forced off the cam if the climber falls. On the contrary, accidents have occurred using this very "technique" when the belayer instinctively clamped down on the cam with her "brake hand" in response to a fall. Keeping the thumb of the brake hand on the cam is safe only if you are continuously holding the brake side of the rope with the same hand. Jay
Absolutely. I try not to use the thumb at all these days, prefering the pinkycam /underhand brake slide
Too many variables to call on whether "lazy thumb" catches... (ie, rope diameter. a climber over 200lb may "wing" the thumb, but 120 not so much, yikes)but I hope we can all agree she's doing a poor job of "completely" belaying safely.
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squierbypetzl
Moderator
Nov 22, 2010, 10:13 AM
Post #136 of 142
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currupt4130 wrote: cracklover wrote: Come on, haven't we all seen grigri users who pretty much *never* hold the brake strand, except to pull in slack, and always have their right hand gripping the whole device? I mean, there's a ton of really shitty belayers out there. I'm sorry another climber decked because of it, but do you need to call this chick out on the internet? With a photo, no less. I don't need to see that shit - I can see it at Rifle any day of the week. Lame. GO I wouldn't have put it up if her face was in it. I never gave her name, nor the location or date.
1) Remember forum rules. Please avoid an argument about how posting this picture was lame or not. Thx.
2) Where were you on november 10th, at approximately 1:32pm?
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cracklover
Nov 22, 2010, 6:42 PM
Post #137 of 142
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squierbypetzl wrote: currupt4130 wrote: cracklover wrote: Come on, haven't we all seen grigri users who pretty much *never* hold the brake strand, except to pull in slack, and always have their right hand gripping the whole device? I mean, there's a ton of really shitty belayers out there. I'm sorry another climber decked because of it, but do you need to call this chick out on the internet? With a photo, no less. I don't need to see that shit - I can see it at Rifle any day of the week. Lame. GO I wouldn't have put it up if her face was in it. I never gave her name, nor the location or date. 1) Remember forum rules. Please avoid an argument about how posting this picture was lame or not. Thx. 2) Where were you on november 10th, at approximately 1:32pm?
I can't tell if you're serious about both of these, just one or the other, or neither.
Happy to answer either issue if you're serious.
GO
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squierbypetzl
Moderator
Nov 22, 2010, 9:24 PM
Post #138 of 142
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I got me a new job working the night shift from home editing stuff for Big Corp. I was drinking with a friend, meant to mention how you revealed more about yourself and the girl in the pic than you probably though.
A quick peek at your pic's exif data reveals it was taken at that precise time on that precise date (or perhaps it was october 11th?). Didn't have time to check, but if it was taken with a phone or one of the newer pro level digital cams, the exif info. also contains the gps location of where the pic was taken.
Her thumb is definitely on top of the cam.
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cracklover
Nov 23, 2010, 11:46 PM
Post #139 of 142
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squierbypetzl wrote: I got me a new job working the night shift from home editing stuff for Big Corp. I was drinking with a friend, meant to mention how you revealed more about yourself and the girl in the pic than you probably though. A quick peek at your pic's exif data reveals it was taken at that precise time on that precise date (or perhaps it was october 11th?). Didn't have time to check, but if it was taken with a phone or one of the newer pro level digital cams, the exif info. also contains the gps location of where the pic was taken. Her thumb is definitely on top of the cam.
I have no idea what you're talking about. My pic? Are you drunk? I didn't post a pic, I'm commenting on a pic someone else posted. If you mean to imply I have some personal connection with the girl in the pic, you're mistaken.
You didn't answer my question, but I'll answer yours anyway.
1 - On November 10 I was home, working.
2 - How is it wrong to call someone out for posting a pic in I&A that has nothing to do with the accident in question? Beyond my one post on the subject there was no further arguing. I stated my opinion that I thought posting the pic was a lousy thing to do and served no purpose. And I didn't respond any further on that line, precisely because no argument on the subject is merited. If he feels differently than I, so be it. I stated my feelings on the subject and he can do with that as he sees fit.
GO
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cracklover
Nov 23, 2010, 11:48 PM
Post #140 of 142
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And if you were, then may I request that you please refrain from moderating while drunk.
Thanks,
GO
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squierbypetzl
Moderator
Nov 24, 2010, 2:51 AM
Post #141 of 142
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Sheesh. Your reading comprehension seems to have failed you here, man.
squierbypetzl wrote: currupt4130 wrote: cracklover wrote: Come on, haven't we all seen grigri users who pretty much *never* hold the brake strand, except to pull in slack, and always have their right hand gripping the whole device? I mean, there's a ton of really shitty belayers out there. I'm sorry another climber decked because of it, but do you need to call this chick out on the internet? With a photo, no less. I don't need to see that shit - I can see it at Rifle any day of the week. Lame. GO I wouldn't have put it up if her face was in it. I never gave her name, nor the location or date. 1) Remember forum rules. Please avoid an argument about how posting this picture was lame or not. Thx. 2) Where were you on november 10th, at approximately 1:32pm?
If you read carefully, you'll notice I was talking to currupt, in reference to the pic he posted. Perhaps the mixup stems from me not realizing that you (not currupt) had answered with this post:
In reply to: I can't tell if you're serious about both of these, just one or the other, or neither. Happy to answer either issue if you're serious. GO
and my subsequent answer to it (taking for granted that currupt, not cracklover, had responded to my post). I don't really know why you thought it had something to do with you in the first place.
In any case, I'd like to suggest we go back to discussing the subject of this thread.
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cracklover
Nov 24, 2010, 5:35 AM
Post #142 of 142
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Ah, a bunch of misunderstandings, it seems. Never mind, then.
GO
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