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el_layclimber
Nov 16, 2010, 9:27 AM
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Good shit.
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Toast_in_the_Machine
Nov 16, 2010, 12:27 PM
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Thank you for posting that.
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jmeizis
Nov 16, 2010, 3:15 PM
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Must...Climb....Hard...Scary...Route...That looks like such an awesome climb. Too bad 11c is the hardest thing I've redpointed. Guess I'll have to get a bit stronger before I check that puppy out.
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fresh
Nov 19, 2010, 9:24 PM
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jmeizis wrote: Must...Climb....Hard...Scary...Route...That looks like such an awesome climb. Too bad 11c is the hardest thing I've redpointed. Guess I'll have to get a bit stronger before I check that puppy out.
"The hardest move is 5.11a at the first bolt, first pitch (bring a small loop of 4mm and 5mm cord to tie off a knob about 15 -20 feet up on the first pitch - as well as some second knuckle size cams to protect the layback flake). Second pitch is 10d continuous. Third is 10c - old school slab cruxes with inbetween 10a runouts. 5.9 crack and easy face to the summit.
All bolts have been replaced by me and Dave Shultz - bomber 3/8" Taper Bolts of course!
Piece o' cake, jb "
http://www.supertopo.com/...75380/Bachar-Yerrian
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jmeizis
Nov 19, 2010, 10:49 PM
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Eeeek, that's like right at the edge of my comfort level onsight wise. Most of the time I do...but sometimes I don't. Not necessarily that style though. Might have to make a trip out there next fall. See how I feel with the area and style of climbing. Have to get on some of Bachar's routes and see if he was a sandbagger!
I can't help but get all psyched watching those sort of videos with the hard scary climbing.
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jt512
Nov 19, 2010, 11:01 PM
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jmeizis wrote: Eeeek, that's like right at the edge of my comfort level onsight wise. Most of the time I do...but sometimes I don't. Not necessarily that style though. Might have to make a trip out there next fall. See how I feel with the area and style of climbing. Have to get on some of Bachar's routes and see if he was a sandbagger! I can't help but get all psyched watching those sort of videos with the hard scary climbing.
Are you seriously suggesting that you're anywhere near capable of leading the Bachar–Yerian?
Jay
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caughtinside
Nov 20, 2010, 1:12 AM
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jt512 wrote: jmeizis wrote: Eeeek, that's like right at the edge of my comfort level onsight wise. Most of the time I do...but sometimes I don't. Not necessarily that style though. Might have to make a trip out there next fall. See how I feel with the area and style of climbing. Have to get on some of Bachar's routes and see if he was a sandbagger! I can't help but get all psyched watching those sort of videos with the hard scary climbing. Are you seriously suggesting that you're anywhere near capable of leading the Bachar–Yerian? Jay
I think with a week of training he's got that thing in the bag.
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jt512
Nov 20, 2010, 2:31 AM
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caughtinside wrote: jt512 wrote: jmeizis wrote: Eeeek, that's like right at the edge of my comfort level onsight wise. Most of the time I do...but sometimes I don't. Not necessarily that style though. Might have to make a trip out there next fall. See how I feel with the area and style of climbing. Have to get on some of Bachar's routes and see if he was a sandbagger! I can't help but get all psyched watching those sort of videos with the hard scary climbing. Are you seriously suggesting that you're anywhere near capable of leading the Bachar–Yerian? Jay I think with a week of training he's got that thing in the bag.
Good point. He on-sights 11a usually. He probably just needs to tune up a bit.
Jay
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jmeizis
Nov 20, 2010, 3:40 AM
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Near capable, yes. Ready, hell no. I'm fine leading scary things at my limit in styles that I'm good at like crack climbs (which don't generally have runouts) and technical routes. Bachar-Yerian sounds like it might be one of those but I haven't checked out much info on the route. Sorry when I said I was psyched watching videos like that I didn't mean to suggest that I was going to pump myself up to go and do it next week.
I'd definately want to spend some time in the area familiarizing myself with the climbing style and some of Bachar's other routes to see how he graded things and how well I climbed in the given style. It definately doesn't look or sound like the sort of climb I'd just go walk up and jump on because it has the same grade as some other climbs I've onsighted.
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jt512
Nov 20, 2010, 6:05 AM
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jmeizis wrote: Near capable, yes. Ready, hell no. I'm fine leading scary things at my limit in styles that I'm good at like crack climbs (which don't generally have runouts) and technical routes. Bachar-Yerian sounds like it might be one of those but I haven't checked out much info on the route. Sorry when I said I was psyched watching videos like that I didn't mean to suggest that I was going to pump myself up to go and do it next week. I'd definately want to spend some time in the area familiarizing myself with the climbing style and some of Bachar's other routes to see how he graded things and how well I climbed in the given style. It definately doesn't look or sound like the sort of climb I'd just go walk up and jump on because it has the same grade as some other climbs I've onsighted.
Hilarious.
Jay
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jmeizis
Nov 20, 2010, 3:15 PM
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It's too bad your mother didn't smother you when you were a child, then the rest of us wouldn't have to deal with your personality.
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marc801
Nov 20, 2010, 4:33 PM
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jmeizis wrote: It's too bad your mother didn't smother you when you were a child, then the rest of us wouldn't have to deal with your personality.
How can anyone who calls themselves a climber (and spills their guts on GumbyBurns blog) "...not know much about..." the Bachar-Yerian? Seriously? That's like saying "The Nose? Yeah, I think I heard of that once."
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jt512
Nov 20, 2010, 4:40 PM
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marc801 wrote: jmeizis wrote: It's too bad your mother didn't smother you when you were a child, then the rest of us wouldn't have to deal with your personality. And in your case, your ego and hubris. How can anyone who calls themselves a climber (and spills their guts on GumbyBurns blog) "...not know much about..." the Bachar-Yerian? Seriously? That's like saying "The Nose? Yeah, I think I heard of that once."
Actually, he calls himself a guide.
Jay
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jmeizis
Nov 21, 2010, 2:04 AM
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No, I'd heard of the Bachar-Yerian, and knew where it was before I ever saw that video. It's like saying I know what The Nose is but I don't know the grade or style of climbing on every pitch. If I was planning on going to do it I'd get a topo and start checking it out.
Sorry to get everyone's panties in a bunch. Apparently the line between self confidence and ego/hubris is a thin one.
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jt512
Nov 21, 2010, 2:11 AM
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jmeizis wrote: No, I'd heard of the Bachar-Yerian, and knew where it was before I ever saw that video. It's like saying I know what The Nose is but I don't know the grade or style of climbing on every pitch. If I was planning on going to do it I'd get a topo and start checking it out. Sorry to get everyone's panties in a bunch. Apparently the line between self confidence and ego/hubris is a thin one.
It's pretty obvious which side of the line you're on when you imply that your trad skill is essentially equal to John Bachar's in his heyday.
Jay
(This post was edited by jt512 on Nov 21, 2010, 2:19 AM)
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caughtinside
Nov 21, 2010, 2:16 AM
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Self confidence is good, but the posts mostly demonstrate ignorance of the route. Which is ok, you don't have to know everything about every route, but it's just funny to those familiar with it because of the history, style and notoriety of tuolumnes most famous sport route. Thanks for the laughs.
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moose_droppings
Nov 21, 2010, 2:29 AM
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caughtinside wrote: Self confidence is good, but the posts mostly demonstrate ignorance of the route. Which is ok, you don't have to know everything about every route, but it's just funny to those familiar with it because of the history, style and notoriety of tuolumnes most famous sport route. Thanks for the laughs.
Are you talking about the B/Y route?
I'm thinking it's a trad route.
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jmeizis
Nov 21, 2010, 3:12 AM
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Given the change in equipment, training methods, and what people are doing these days, it's not too far fetched to think that regular people can ascend to that level of ability. Physically or mentally. Your video post so much as makes that point.
Given that you know little about how well I climb it's a little presumptious of you to just assume it's outside of my ability. It's not like I came out and said pfft, Bachar-Yerian, easy as pie. That would certainly be hubris. What I said was that, given what I know about the route, it's right at the cusp of my climbing ability. I also admitted I don't know much about the route except it's location and the grade and that I would want to climb in the area for a while before deciding to check it out. That doesn't seem like hubris, that seems like being cautious and working up to it. I don't see the part where I said I could totally go out their and crush it no problem.
Obviously it's a serious route but it's really unfortunate when other climbers take such a negative attitude towards the aspirations of others, especially others they don't know. How sad is your life if you have to take a dump on the lives of others?
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jt512
Nov 21, 2010, 3:59 AM
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jmeizis wrote: Given the change in equipment, training methods, and what people are doing these days, it's not too far fetched to think that regular people can ascend to that level of ability. Physically or mentally. Your video post so much as makes that point.
First of all, I've watched Andrew Rock climb, and if he implied that he was an ordinary climber then he was being very humble.
That said, of course "regular people" can ascend to that level of ability. But they actually have to ascend. You said that you have onsighted some 5.11a routes. If you think that that means that you are anywhere near ready to tackle a Tuolumne Meadows 5.11c R/X route, then you are dangerously delusional.
In reply to: Given that you know little about how well I climb . . .
I know quite a lot about how well you climb. First of all, you wrote in this very thread that you onsight some 5.11a's. Secondly, you've been blogging about and posting about your climbing adventures and misadventures for quite some time now. Considering that you have implied that you might be ready to lead the Bachar–Yerian, in spite of the fact that it is at least two letter grades above your 50% onsight level and is rated R/X, a good case can be made that I know more about your climbing abilities than you do.
In reply to: What I said was that, given what I know about the route, it's right at the cusp of my climbing ability.
Which speaks to either your ignorance of the route or your ignorance of your climbing ability, or, in all likelihood, both.
In reply to: I also admitted I don't know much about the route except it's location and the grade and that I would want to climb in the area for a while before deciding to check it out. That doesn't seem like hubris, that seems like being cautious and working up to it. I don't see the part where I said I could totally go out their and crush it no problem.
That would be a reasonable thing to (finally) say were it not for the fact that the route is simply out of your league—which is not to say that some day you might be able to do it.
In reply to: Obviously it's a serious route but it's really unfortunate when other climbers take such a negative attitude towards the aspirations of others...
Straw man. Nobody is dumping on your or anybody else's aspiration. Nobody has even remotely suggested that you shouldn't aspire to the Bachar–Yerian, or even that someday you could even cruise it. What we are disparaging is your grossly inflated image of your climbing ability—precisely the same thing that we have been disparaging ever since you started blogging about your "guiding" adventures, as if you were the reincarnation of Anatoli Boukreev.
In reply to: How sad is your life if you have to take a dump on the lives of others?
Nobody is "dumping on the lives of others," whatever that even means. We (and it certainly isn't just me) are simply pointing out that you, as usual, are grossly overestimating your status in the world of rock climbing.
Jay
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jmeizis
Nov 21, 2010, 5:21 AM
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In reply to: First of all, I've watched Andrew Rock climb.... That said, of course "regular people" ...
While he's obviously a very good climber, what is it about him, or anyone in this thread that's out of the ordinary? I also think you missed the link where J.B. himself said no move was harder than 5.11a. Whether that was a joke or what I don't know. I'd assume it was a joke because from everything else I've read it sounds like the crux is a V4 boulder problem and most of the route sounds like a face climb on vertical and gently overhanging rock. Doing a V4 boulder problem and then a bunch of 5.11 moves I would say is a little ways outside of my ability. I've got plenty of stamina for 5.11 moves, question is whether I could pull the crux, then do a bunch of 5.11 moves. I might be able to pull some V4 moves and I'm pretty confident I can do many 5.11 moves. I'm relatively sure I can't do both and fairly sure I don't have the endurance to do an entire pitch of 5.11 moves. I still haven't ever seen the climb in person so for all I know it's twenty degrees overhanging with two full pitches of 5.11+/5.11 moves back to back which would be a fair bit above my ability.
In reply to: I know quite a lot about how well you climb. ...
I think there's a little miscommunication. I might be close to being ready, definately not ready. Large difference. If I inferred that I was ready to go then I mispoke. Aside from that I onsight 5.11a more often than not, probably about 75% of the time, a lot of that includes vertical or slightly overhanging face climbing. Since I've never seen the climb it's really hard to say whether it's a little outside of my ability or a ways outside of my ability. I'd be remiss to take advice from anyone who hasn't seen me climb and hasn't done the climb themselves.
In reply to: Which speaks to either your ignorance of the route or your ignorance of your climbing ability, or, in all likelihood, both.
Might be a little bit of both, more than likely it's my lack of knowledge of the area, the style of climbing, and the route itself. I haven't had an accident climbing so I must have a fairly good idea of how well I climb since I haven't gotten so far out of my depth to get hurt. If California is as soft as Colorado then it might be only 5.11a.
In reply to: That would be a reasonable thing to (finally) say were it not for the fact that the route is simply out of your league—which is not to say that some day you might be able to do it.
I guess I wasn't clear at the beginning of the thread where I said I would definately want to do climbs in the area and see if J.B. was a sandbagger. Now when you say "out of your league" you infer a seperation of ability that's more than a few letter grades, you make it sound like a 5.10+/5.11- climber going for 5.13X, not 5.11/11+X
In reply to: Straw man. Nobody is dumping...
No, it has nothing to do with the argument about whether or not I have the abilitty to climb the B/Y. It's just a comment on the way you speak with others, not just me. What you've pretty much been saying is that I'm not even close to being capable of doing that route. The way you said it was fairly disparaging. Whether that was intentional or you just don't realize how you come off to others I have no idea but the meaning behind the words might as well have been "you suck at climbing and I doubt you'll ever have the skill or balls to do this."
In reply to: Nobody is "dumping on the lives of others," whatever ...
If you're trying to make your point stick you might try to avoid insulting someone's abilities or their intelligence. People tend to not listen as much after that. I think you're the only one who's done that.
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caughtinside
Nov 21, 2010, 5:36 AM
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I'll go ahead and say it then... that route is very far out of your league.
But that's true of 99.9% of the climbing population.
So don't feel bad... but it's funny to watch you spout about the route, what you climb, the dreams of others, etc. You're not leading it anytime soon.
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jmeizis
Nov 21, 2010, 5:55 AM
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You've never even seen me climb. I have a feeling that you, and everyone else who said it, is probably right but I still am not about to let somebody on the internet tell me what I can't do. I'll let someone in person impart the common sense.
I don't feel bad, nor take anything on this site seriously. I'd definately like to climb in Tuolumne and check it out. If I did look at it and seriously consider doing it sometime in the future (probably not near future) I'd probably study it a lot more carefully than any route I'd ever done. It's a hard, runout climb. Gotta feel good about doing the moves, not just capable of scratching by on the skin of your teeth.
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caughtinside
Nov 21, 2010, 6:02 AM
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I don't need to see you climb to tell you that just from what I've read in this thread, you are nowhere near capable of leading this route.
Although I don't think anyone who has posted in this thread is either.
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jt512
Nov 21, 2010, 6:17 AM
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caughtinside wrote: I don't need to see you climb to tell you that just from what I've read in this thread, you are nowhere near capable of leading this route. Although I don't think anyone who has posted in this thread is either.
According to Jan (Andrew's second), Andrew spent nine months of dedicated training to lead the Bachar–Yerian. I'm going to go out on a limb and say that if I spent a full year of training dedicated to leading just that route that I could do it. You too, maybe in less time.
Jay
(This post was edited by jt512 on Nov 21, 2010, 6:19 AM)
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