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"Oh Sh!t" biner
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thewaker43


Nov 20, 2010, 9:12 AM
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"Oh Sh!t" biner
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hey folks, let me start this off with saying that I almost never come into this forum and know nothing about alpine or Ice. I live in Atlanta and often we are still in t-shirts in December. Anyway, I was reading the Newb Test: alpine edition and one section assigned points for not having an "oh sh!t" biner. For regular climbing a usually carry a Trango Superfly locker with a couple rappel rings, short prussick and maybe a Tibloc. Other things I have heard people add are quicklinks, small knife or first aid kit and headlamp. It also seems a lot of people see them as totally unnecessary. So I was wondering how an emergency biner differs in mountaineering than trad and what items one typically includes. Again I know knowing about this stuff so if you do not mind explain the reasoning.


jcrew


Nov 20, 2010, 10:36 AM
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Re: [thewaker43] "Oh Sh!t" biner [In reply to]
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thewaker43 wrote:
hey folks, let me start this off with saying that I almost never come into this forum and know nothing about alpine or Ice. I live in Atlanta and often we are still in t-shirts in December. Anyway, I was reading the Newb Test: alpine edition and one section assigned points for not having an "oh sh!t" biner. For regular climbing a usually carry a Trango Superfly locker with a couple rappel rings, short prussick and maybe a Tibloc. Other things I have heard people add are quicklinks, small knife or first aid kit and headlamp. It also seems a lot of people see them as totally unnecessary. So I was wondering how an emergency biner differs in mountaineering than trad and what items one typically includes. Again I know knowing about this stuff so if you do not mind explain the reasoning.

is there an english edition of this post?
are you talking about a "leaver biner"? are you talking about bivy gear? what does alpine climbing have to do with NooBs?


thewaker43


Nov 20, 2010, 11:03 AM
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Re: [jcrew] "Oh Sh!t" biner [In reply to]
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not talking about a leaver biner or bivy gear. [http://www.rockclimbing.com/cgi-bin/forum/gforum.cgi?post=2193445;search_string=test;#2193445]
See "Risk Factor 6" - no oh shit biner +25. I am simply asking what it is.


(This post was edited by thewaker43 on Nov 20, 2010, 11:07 AM)


Colinhoglund


Nov 20, 2010, 11:14 AM
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Re: [thewaker43] "Oh Sh!t" biner [In reply to]
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thewaker43 wrote:
hey folks, let me start this off with saying that I almost never come into this forum and know nothing about alpine or Ice. I live in Atlanta and often we are still in t-shirts in December. Anyway, I was reading the Newb Test: alpine edition and one section assigned points for not having an "oh sh!t" biner. For regular climbing a usually carry a Trango Superfly locker with a couple rappel rings, short prussick and maybe a Tibloc. Other things I have heard people add are quicklinks, small knife or first aid kit and headlamp. It also seems a lot of people see them as totally unnecessary. So I was wondering how an emergency biner differs in mountaineering than trad and what items one typically includes. Again I know knowing about this stuff so if you do not mind explain the reasoning.

It's simple, your a n00b! But you admitted it so -15 risk points. The point of this is to *humorously* separate the experienced from the inexperienced. Those who tread in the alpine without the necessary gear for a rescue and the knowhow to use whatever it is they choose to bring are rolling the dice.

I got -15 risk points lol.


(This post was edited by Colinhoglund on Nov 20, 2010, 11:50 AM)


jcrew


Nov 20, 2010, 11:46 AM
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Re: [thewaker43] "Oh Sh!t" biner [In reply to]
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http://www.rockclimbing.com/...tring=test;#2193445]

fixed the link....now i can go look at what it is that you are talking about.


(This post was edited by jcrew on Nov 20, 2010, 11:47 AM)


thewaker43


Nov 20, 2010, 11:51 AM
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thx


jcrew


Nov 20, 2010, 11:53 AM
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ahhh.....now i see...a weak attempt at humor.

i carry tied slings in case i need to bail.


thewaker43


Nov 20, 2010, 1:36 PM
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Re: [Colinhoglund] "Oh Sh!t" biner [In reply to]
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Colinhoglund wrote:
thewaker43 wrote:
hey folks, let me start this off with saying that I almost never come into this forum and know nothing about alpine or Ice. I live in Atlanta and often we are still in t-shirts in December. Anyway, I was reading the Newb Test: alpine edition and one section assigned points for not having an "oh sh!t" biner. For regular climbing a usually carry a Trango Superfly locker with a couple rappel rings, short prussick and maybe a Tibloc. Other things I have heard people add are quicklinks, small knife or first aid kit and headlamp. It also seems a lot of people see them as totally unnecessary. So I was wondering how an emergency biner differs in mountaineering than trad and what items one typically includes. Again I know knowing about this stuff so if you do not mind explain the reasoning.

It's simple, your a n00b! But you admitted it so -15 risk points. The point of this is to *humorously* separate the experienced from the inexperienced. Those who tread in the alpine without the necessary gear for a rescue and the knowhow to use whatever it is they choose to bring are rolling the dice.

I got -15 risk points lol.

"and the knowhow to use was kind of what I was going for. Though I have no plans to go alpine in the near future I do enjoy setting up rope problems in backyard during the week after work. This keeps me off the couch and it also helps me learn techniques I would not use otherwise.


brokesomeribs


Nov 23, 2010, 1:40 PM
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Re: [thewaker43] "Oh Sh!t" biner [In reply to]
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thewaker43 wrote:
hey folks, let me start this off with saying that I almost never come into this forum and know nothing about alpine or Ice. I live in Atlanta and often we are still in t-shirts in December. Anyway, I was reading the Newb Test: alpine edition and one section assigned points for not having an "oh sh!t" biner. For regular climbing a usually carry a Trango Superfly locker with a couple rappel rings, short prussick and maybe a Tibloc. Other things I have heard people add are quicklinks, small knife or first aid kit and headlamp. It also seems a lot of people see them as totally unnecessary. So I was wondering how an emergency biner differs in mountaineering than trad and what items one typically includes. Again I know knowing about this stuff so if you do not mind explain the reasoning.

My "Oh Shit" biner is the same no matter where I'm climbing or the season: Small pocketknife, 2 quicklinks, two 5mm pre-tied Prussiks. If I'm climbing in winter, on ice, etc then I will carry 6-10 feet of either 6mm cord or webbing (whatever I have lying around handy at home) in case I have to rappel off V-threads (AKA abalakov threads). For summer trad climbing, usually rappel options are either pre-placed or walk-offs are simpler, so I dont carry spare cord, but I'll cut a section off my cordelette if necessary. I only carry rap rings where I think I'll be installing or re-equipping a semi-permanent rap station. Otherwise, quicklinks are way cheaper.


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