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wigglestick
Dec 23, 2002, 8:44 PM
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Registered: Jul 27, 2001
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Back in November I was doing some scouting around in an area I believed was called Long Canyon. I am not sure if it was within the boundaries of Capital Reef. If you drive down the Burr Trail from the town of Boulder, UT towards Lake Powell, you pass through a sweet wingate canyon. We found 4-6 established routes with anchors but they only scratch the surface. Does anybody have any more information about this area. There is huge potential for Grade IV-V aid routes and long free routes in that canyon.
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triznut
Sep 23, 2005, 6:47 PM
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Registered: Jul 26, 2000
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Yeah I was driving home that way from the C. Reef just last weekend and drove up Long canyon in to Boulder and was amazed at the all the route potential and the fact that i didn't see any signs of development.
I think long canyon is more in the GS Escalante National Monument region.
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camhead
Sep 23, 2005, 7:16 PM
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Registered: Sep 10, 2001
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last time I was there (this spring), there were not only a few anchors at the tops of cracks, but also a BLM info. board noting seasonal closures to the routes due to raptor nesting; I can't remember the dates.
All in all, the rock in this area is not too good. stick to Indian Creek.
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ddriver
Sep 26, 2005, 2:25 PM
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Registered: Oct 6, 2003
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Pretty sure that's BLM land. There are more anchors there than readily apparent from the road, and the potential is probably not as great as you suggest, but it is a beautiful canyon to be sure. The rock quality is okay but not the best for wingate. Its definitely worth the trip though and the camping is sweet. The guys at IME in SLC can most likely turn you on to route info that hasn't been published.
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bootyhead
Sep 28, 2005, 3:37 AM
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Registered: Dec 5, 2002
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I have put up about 15 routes , mostly free climbs on the north side of the canyon, from 5.9-5.12. They climb a lot like Wingate, but when you go to drill the anchor you find out how soft the rock is. Drilled baby angles work best for anchors here. There is also a 2 pitch A3 knifeblade climb on the south side called Pass The Bong. The canyon is really beautiful, the climbs are fun, but the rock isn't as good as it looks. These routes were mostly put up by a few Flagstaff climbers in the mid 90's.
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