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Gear testing
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Poll: Gear testing
I-beam vs conventional carabiners loaded over an edge 18 / 36%
Locking vs Non-Locking opposite and opposed biners strength test 4 / 8%
Strength of different knots in dyneema slings 14 / 28%
Cam testing 8 / 16%
Insert unrelated but clever poll option here 6 / 12%
50 total votes
 

esander4


Dec 9, 2010, 3:55 PM
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Registered: Nov 7, 2010
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Gear testing
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Here's the poll as promised, I decided to set it up today instead of tomorrow because I'll be traveling the next couple of days. Pick your most wanted option. For more details about each option, read the thread


jeremy11


Dec 13, 2010, 2:24 PM
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Re: [esander4] Gear testing [In reply to]
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cam pull out strength as functions of camming angle, lobe material (coefficient of static friction) including experiments with different lobe materials and high friction coatings and treatments, contact surface area of lobes (theoretically shouldn't matter!),
maybe even pull out strength of drop tests vs slow pull tests.
You'll have to make some prototype cams for this Cool


esander4


Dec 15, 2010, 10:12 AM
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Well the winners are clear. We'll get the stuff bought/ordered soon. We'll just go down the list until we're out of money. Who knows, we may just get through all of them (doubtful).

I would make cam prototypes for testing, but to be honest there's a reason I don't have my own line of cams out. I could certainly try


soNVclimbing


Dec 15, 2010, 3:50 PM
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Re: [esander4] Gear testing [In reply to]
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I would like to see a triple figure eight tested: All three loops together and each loop individually vs a single or double fig. 8. We use a figure eight on both ends of our 500ft. zipline and after fifty people ride across the knots become permanent. I think the triple would be in every way a better knot. Just a theory though. Need more research.


fresnoflats


Dec 16, 2010, 1:40 AM
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Re: [soNVclimbing] Gear testing [In reply to]
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soNVclimbing wrote:
I would like to see a triple figure eight tested: All three loops together and each loop individually vs a single or double fig. 8. We use a figure eight on both ends of our 500ft. zipline and after fifty people ride across the knots become permanent. I think the triple would be in every way a better knot. Just a theory though. Need more research.
Did you happen to be in JTree over thanksgiving? Several Vegas friends were there. The 500 foot length sounds like what they rig. At JTree we rigged a short zipline and I used a bowline follow through (bowline on a bight) on the upper attachment. I did not break it down myself but was told the knot came out pretty easily. I may have done a couple other tricks to make sure the knot untied easily.


acorneau


Dec 17, 2010, 12:25 PM
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Re: [soNVclimbing] Gear testing [In reply to]
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soNVclimbing wrote:
I would like to see a triple figure eight tested: All three loops together and each loop individually vs a single or double fig. 8. We use a figure eight on both ends of our 500ft. zipline and after fifty people ride across the knots become permanent. I think the triple would be in every way a better knot. Just a theory though. Need more research.

Put a biner (or some other object) in the knot before you cinch it down. When it comes time to untie it just pull the biner out and it should give you just enough room to break the knot open.


Partner philbox
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Dec 17, 2010, 3:42 PM
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You could also use a Kootenay Pulley as a high strength tensionless hitch tie off. Works a treat and you'll never again need to worry about your knots cinching down too tight. The Kootenay also has lots of holes in the sheive cheeks to attach anchoring or guy lines to.

Since zip lines or flying foxes are pulled reasonably tight and the loads to the anchors at each end are very high you need to consider strategies for tieng off that account for these high loads. High strength tie offs that do not reduce the strength of the rope would be what I would be aiming for.

A secondary back up line should also be considered. Bad things can happen fast with these setups if you don't allow for the high loads at the anchors.


soNVclimbing


Dec 21, 2010, 8:07 AM
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Lots of good ideas. I being a sailor, have used a bowline to hold forces that surpass anything in the climbing world. Never failed, never untied and can always undo. When sailing I never doubtt the bowline but in climbing, I never use it.

The carabiner tucked into the knot I think would work but, I have never seen such and would need to reseach this more.

Ya, I heard Joel made it to J-tree thanksgiving.

My friend is in the process of making a steel pulley. It uses a 6" diameter drum and will be bitchen when done. Hopefully in time for the 1000 footer.

The anchors have been holding for over twenty years or so, I don't doubt them.

As always we use two ropes.

Thanks for the replies


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