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aquadood


Dec 10, 2010, 12:56 PM
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Rope-solo questions
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I figured this would be most appropriate in this forum due to its advanced nature.

1. What do you use to carry / feed the rope. Just a backpack, a special ropebag, or something else?

2. Are you using a GriGri, Soloist, Silent Partner, or other?

3. When you're out rope-soloing are you more often freeclimbing or aid climbing?

4. Have you fallen while rope-soloing and if so, did everything operate as it was intended?


csproul


Dec 10, 2010, 1:05 PM
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Re: [aquadood] Rope-solo questions [In reply to]
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aquadood wrote:
I figured this would be most appropriate in this forum due to its advanced nature.

1. What do you use to carry / feed the rope. Just a backpack, a special ropebag, or something else?

2. Are you using a GriGri, Soloist, Silent Partner, or other?

3. When you're out rope-soloing are you more often freeclimbing or aid climbing?

4. Have you fallen while rope-soloing and if so, did everything operate as it was intended?


I'm certainly not an expert, but here is the system that I've been using:

1) On multi-pitch, I use a rope bag and hang it at the anchor and let it feed out to me (anchor->me->back down into the rope bag)

2) I use a Soloist

3) I have mostly used it free-climbing, but have recently been using it to learn aid.

4) No, I have not taken a real fall on it.


sf


Dec 10, 2010, 1:15 PM
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Re: [aquadood] Rope-solo questions [In reply to]
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1. I usually trail loops girth-hitched to biners on my harness. This minimizes drag by reducing weight on the belay device. Plus, it serves as a backup.

2. Silent Partner

3. Free (mostly)

4. I have whipped while rope soloing and the device locked up as intended.

I use double mini-traxions to second.


(This post was edited by sf on Dec 10, 2010, 1:23 PM)


moose_droppings


Dec 10, 2010, 1:47 PM
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Re: [aquadood] Rope-solo questions [In reply to]
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1. I use a small cheap backpack that the rope gets flaked into and left at the belay to feed out. Tie a BF knot in the free end of your rope.

2. Roped soloing i use a Soloist with a chest harness per instructions for free and aid. If I could find a cheap RE Solo Aid I'd like to try it for aiding solo.

3. Free 75%/ aid 25%

4.I've taken several falls while roped soling free and aid climbing and all have been caught without incident.

Find what works for you and your comfort zone and have everything dialed in to the max under controlled circumstances before you venture out on your own. Learn to check, double and triple check your entire system by yourself. No one is above making errors or incurring just plain old bad luck, so stack the deck the best you can in your favor.


(This post was edited by moose_droppings on Dec 11, 2010, 8:43 AM)


sherpa79


Dec 10, 2010, 4:14 PM
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Re: [aquadood] Rope-solo questions [In reply to]
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aquadood wrote:
I figured this would be most appropriate in this forum due to its advanced nature.

1. What do you use to carry / feed the rope. Just a backpack, a special ropebag, or something else?

2. Are you using a GriGri, Soloist, Silent Partner, or other?

3. When you're out rope-soloing are you more often freeclimbing or aid climbing?

4. Have you fallen while rope-soloing and if so, did everything operate as it was intended?

1. Usually just the bag I used to carry the stuff to the climb

2. Gri Gri

3. I've only ever soloed on aid.

4. Not extensively, but yes.


potreroed


Dec 10, 2010, 7:31 PM
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Re: [aquadood] Rope-solo questions [In reply to]
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I use a bucket-type rope bag and a Soloist. Lately mostly aid climbing but have done lots of free climbing also. A few short falls, nothing big or serious.


uni_jim


Dec 10, 2010, 10:46 PM
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1. flake on ground, or in a stuff sack
2. Soloist
3. 50/50 free and aid
4. Many falls, many takes, the system works


jaablink


Dec 11, 2010, 5:09 AM
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Pack in with the rope Strapped to the outside of a small pack. A 1.5 pound rubber coated steel weight gets attached to the bottom of the rope

1 Mini traxion

Free

Many many many times. I am still here.


Partner xtrmecat


Dec 11, 2010, 9:17 AM
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Re: [aquadood] Rope-solo questions [In reply to]
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1. Aid, or big free stuff- I use a Fish Snake Charmer, works like a dream when two ropes need to go. Free, I either use a rope tarp(single pitch), and/or stack the rope with progressively shorter coils in a shoulder length sling.

2. Soloist, with a backup knott down the nonworking strand, at a max length I am willing to fall should it be upside down.

3.Most miles are free, and about 50% of my aid is solo.

4. Device works perfectly on falls, however have one mega fall that I went to the backup, with extenuating circumstances.

Burly Bob

edit due to third grade spelling error.


(This post was edited by xtrmecat on Dec 12, 2010, 9:11 AM)


TarHeelEMT


Dec 11, 2010, 2:08 PM
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Re: [csproul] Rope-solo questions [In reply to]
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Is the soloist a significant improvement from the grigri for aid solo?


bill413


Dec 11, 2010, 4:23 PM
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Re: [xtrmecat] Rope-solo questions [In reply to]
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xtrmecat wrote:
2. Soloist, with a backup know down the nonworking strand, at a max length I am willing to fall should it be upside down.
4. Device works perfectly on falls, however have one mega fall that I went to the backup, with extenuating circumstances.

Because the backup is important.


csproul


Dec 11, 2010, 7:03 PM
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Re: [TarHeelEMT] Rope-solo questions [In reply to]
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TarHeelEMT wrote:
Is the soloist a significant improvement from the grigri for aid solo?
Don't know really...I have never used a Grigri for soloing. But my impression is that the grigri would work as well or better for solo aiding. The Soloist supposedly has the benefit of somewhat feeding automatically when busting out some free moves (over an un-modified grigri), but the Soloist will not stop an upside down fall.


potreroed


Dec 11, 2010, 9:08 PM
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Re: [TarHeelEMT] Rope-solo questions [In reply to]
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TarHeelEMT wrote:
Is the soloist a significant improvement from the grigri for aid solo?

Yes. With the gri-gri it's hard to control the amount of rope slipping through it when you're concentrating on all the other stuff you're doing. I MUCH prefer the Soloist.


healyje


Dec 12, 2010, 2:35 AM
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Re: [aquadood] Rope-solo questions [In reply to]
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Are you talking aid soloing or free lead rope-soloing?


Partner xtrmecat


Dec 12, 2010, 9:21 AM
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Re: [TarHeelEMT] Rope-solo questions [In reply to]
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TarHeel, in my opinion to your question, YES.

Two reasons, the feed issue as mentioned upthread, and also the attachment to you. The gri-gri uses a biner for attachment, and if you take one and put it in a rugged biner, move it down the spine and then put side pressure on it you will see that it will bind, and give the right kind of force on the attachment tabs to bend or break them off, egads, the horror. This binding has some using various methods and biners to mitigate the issue, but why bother when the cost is the same as the soloist.

The soloist uses the cord tie in, which can only fail should you fail to tie in correctly, which is where I would want the responsibility of an issue to fall, something I can control. Bomber.

The head first nonlocking issue is real, but having experienced quite a number of years on mine on lead, at or just beyond my ability, I still see it as a good partner. I would go so far as to say, all solo methods should include a backup on the nonworking strand, always.


Burly Bob


yetanotherdave


Dec 12, 2010, 8:26 PM
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1. What do you use to carry / feed the rope. Just a backpack, a special ropebag, or something else?
- fish snake charmer.

2. Are you using a GriGri, Soloist, Silent Partner, or other?
- Silent Partner

3. When you're out rope-soloing are you more often freeclimbing or aid climbing?
- both, but if I'm rope soloing there's at least some aid, otherwise I could probably find a partner :)

4. Have you fallen while rope-soloing and if so, did everything operate as it was intended?
- yes, several times, including one 60+ footer that I'm pretty sure I made longer by mismanaging the slack in the rope. Beyond that bit of pilot error, everything worked fine. Always use backup knots.


aquadood


Dec 12, 2010, 10:30 PM
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Re: [yetanotherdave] Rope-solo questions [In reply to]
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Great responses. Thank you. For backup knots do you mean knots in the non-working end of the rope that will jam into the belay device or a knot tied in to your harness?

Also, if free climbing, how do you undo these knots when you cannot free both hands?


healyje


Dec 13, 2010, 2:05 AM
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Re: [aquadood] Rope-solo questions [In reply to]
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aquadood wrote:
Also, if free climbing, how do you undo these knots when you cannot free both hands?

I personally consider aid and free climbing to have radically different requirements for roped soloing and approach them quite differently with respect to system, rope management, and solo device. Almost hard to think of them as remotely similar activities, particularly from a roped-soloing perspective.


coastal_climber


Dec 13, 2010, 8:27 AM
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Re: [aquadood] Rope-solo questions [In reply to]
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aquadood wrote:
For backup knots do you mean knots in the non-working end of the rope that will jam into the belay device or a knot tied in to your harness?

Either or.

aquadood wrote:
Also, if free climbing, how do you undo these knots when you cannot free both hands?

You can tie the figure 8 loosely, or stop climbing for a sec.


DangerGir1


Dec 13, 2010, 8:55 AM
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Re: [coastal_climber] Rope-solo questions [In reply to]
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Where do you find set up diagrams for rope-solo?


moose_droppings


Dec 13, 2010, 10:43 AM
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Re: [DangerGir1] Rope-solo questions [In reply to]
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DangerGir1 wrote:
Where do you find set up diagrams for rope-solo?

kenr? Is that you?


boymeetsrock


Dec 13, 2010, 10:53 AM
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1) So far i stack it on the ground. I would like to move to a back pack to avoid the weight of rope issues as I climb higher.

2) Silent Partner

3) Free climbing

4) No, not yet.


DangerGir1


Dec 13, 2010, 3:31 PM
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Re: [moose_droppings] Rope-solo questions [In reply to]
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In reply to:
kenr? Is that you?

nope
I keep thinking that I need to learn to rope solo because partners are hard to find.


coastal_climber


Dec 13, 2010, 3:56 PM
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Re: [DangerGir1] Rope-solo questions [In reply to]
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DangerGir1 wrote:
In reply to:
kenr? Is that you?

nope
I keep thinking that I need to learn to rope solo because partners are hard to find.

If your going to start soloing, do aiding because then you can actually push grades, not have to dick around freeing some 5.9


DangerGir1


Dec 16, 2010, 7:08 PM
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Re: [coastal_climber] Rope-solo questions [In reply to]
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Solo aid and rope solo for free climbing should have vary similar or the same set up. I just have never see it done nor found a book with the directions on the best way to rope up.

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