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Muenchener
Dec 10, 2010, 9:24 PM
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I've been reading here for a while, and have the impression there's some helpful advice to be had, so I'm hoping some more experienced folk might critique my winter training plan.
I used to climb around mid-5.10 trad years ago. Started sport climbing this year after more than ten years away from climbing. Am currently back at around 5.10b/c onsight, bouldering about V2 in a handful of goes. Haven't really tried any redpointing or long term bouldering projects yet. I'm going to Arco at Easter. Since my outdoor time between now and then will be more on snow than rock - so no interim climbing goals to aim for - I've decided to try to learn to use my indoor training time most effectively with a full-on periodised programme aimed at onsighting 5.11 at Easter.
The Plan, at the moment, looks like this:
Aerobic/mileage phase. Two to four sessions a week. Bouldering sessions: one or two 20 to 30 minute ARCs, preceded or separated by warming up / playing on problems. Nothing fingery or desperate on the problems; emphasis on overhang/roof technique, because in Climbing Career 1.0 I was something of a slab specialist and got scared on or avoided anything steep. I am not going to slip back into that rut. Route sessions: warm up / technique drills on 3 or 4 easy routes, 5 or 6 routes at or just below my onsight limit around 5.9+/5.10a. (I don't currently have a regular belayer who would tolerate me ARCing on routes, as I am only just starting to rebuild my circle of climbing partners)
Have been doing this for two weeks now; intend to keep doing it until Christmas then take a week off whilst visiting family.
Then: January-February: strength phase. Boulder lots. Not really sure how to structure this though. I'm thinking Jan to mid Feb work on lots of hard problems at or just above my current level, then move into a couple of weeks "recruitment" trying moves on desperate stuff on which I have no (short term) chance. Continue at least one routes session a week to maintain some level of endurance and leading head - start pushing into some harder redpoint attempts already, or not yet?
Then: March: power endurance phase. 4x4s, circuits of linked problems. Now definitely start trying to redpoint some harder routes in the gym. Family/weather permitting, try to get a couple of weekends outdoors to begin the conversion of gym strength to real rock.
Easter: Arco: lean, mean 5.11 machine.
Plausible?
(This post was edited by Muenchener on Dec 10, 2010, 10:13 PM)
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shimanilami
Dec 10, 2010, 9:42 PM
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There is something distasteful about the title to your thread.
With that said, it is plausible that you could climb 5.11 if you follow the regimen you outlined.
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Muenchener
Dec 10, 2010, 10:16 PM
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In reply to: There is something distasteful about the title to your thread.
Oops. Thank you. I had no intention to offend; it's just that I'm new here and used to other forums with a more generally flippant tone. Changed.
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Muenchener
Dec 11, 2010, 8:19 PM
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In reply to: The only thing I didn't see in your plan was exactly how long you're planning for each phase.
Aerobic 5 weeks
(rest 1 week)
Strength 8 weeks - split HT/recruitment 6/2 or 5/3
(rest 1 week)
PE 5 weeks
.... go!
The two rest weeks are family commitments, and won't do any harm I think.
In reply to: Also you may want to incorporate some finger hangs/system wall into your strength phase.
In general I think at my level I'm more than weak enough to make strength gains purely through bouldering, whilst also learning technique. I do do some system-style stuff for specific weaknesses, e.g. foot retention / replacement on roofs. And one of my local gyms has a 45-degree woody covered with heinous little crimps, on which I could barely hang at all in the summer when I last tried: one of the targets of the recruitment phase will be to manage a move or two on that thing.
(This post was edited by Muenchener on Dec 12, 2010, 5:03 PM)
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mr.tastycakes
Dec 12, 2010, 4:59 PM
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not a bad plan. my 2 cents:
Make sure to do movement drills every session, preferably at the beginning when you're fresh. Be really careful about finger injuries when doing threshold bouldering (recruitment); limit your amount of attempts on a single move to between 5-10 tries per training session (IMO). Also, explore other intervals beside the 4x4 (i.e. 5x5, 6x6, 6x8) for a lower intensity power-endurance workout every now and then...4x4's are really hard, i wouldn't do them more than once a week.
It's definitely possible for you to be redpointing 5.11 sport within a couple months if your onsight level is currently mid 5.10.
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ghisino
Dec 13, 2010, 9:51 AM
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whatever plan you follow, try to do as much work as possible on fingery ground, slabby to moderately overhanging.
from the little i've seen, arco is not kalymnos nor thailand, the overhanging pumpy stuff starts at higher grades...
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rsmillbern
Dec 13, 2010, 10:09 AM
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Sounds pretty good and makes me realize I need to do the same as I have been lazy the past months (just moved from the US to Germany, travel, movinging, new job, ect...)
The Arco ratings are not sandbagged, from what I have seen, but there is some conversion differences sometime between YDS and UIAA or the French system. The guild books also tend to jump back and forth between the rating systems. I got on a 7 once (French grade i.e. 5.11d) thinking it was a UIAA 7 (5.10b/c) just because the route next to it in the guild book was listed with the UIAA rating. Made for an interesting day :-)
Aside from that Arco is awesome. There is some great multi-pitch as well that reqires some gear (NC style lite rack generally is good). I try to get there at least once a year.
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