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adeptus
Dec 24, 2002, 11:08 AM
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Registered: Dec 17, 2002
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(I moved this question out from the “new ice tools” tread since no one cared to answer).
I’m looking for a set of all-round ice tools that I can use all winter on water ice and then in the Alps next summer for easy ice climbs and mountaineering.
Please help me pick out the best of the following three all-round tools:
DMM - The Fly
Charlet Moser - Axar
Grivel - Alp Wing
If you have tried any of these tools please leave a comment about it.
(The weight balance and swing are the primary things of consideration to me)
Thanks
[ This Message was edited by: adeptus on 2002-12-24 04:24 ]
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tradguy
Dec 24, 2002, 1:06 PM
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Registered: Aug 22, 2002
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I've swung the Axar around in a store, but not used it. I didn't really care for the swing much - I think due to the weight distribution. Haven't messed with the others. One option to consider is BD Cobras. I know they are pricey, but I can say from personal experience that they are outstanding WI tools, but also excellent alpine tools. I've used them on Liberty Ridge on Rainier, and also the East Rigde of Mt. Logan, and was extremely pleased. Love the weight distribution, love the swing, love the way the pick sticks when you want and pulls out reasonably well. You can't go wrong with Cobras.
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hallm
Dec 24, 2002, 7:10 PM
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Registered: Aug 11, 2002
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I have only used on old Chouinard tool, so I can't really give you much advice on newer models, but I just ordered a Grivel Air Tech, which was recommended by a friend as well as the following AAI website, http://www.guideschoice.com. Check it out for recommendations. They also give you a good rundown on how they make their selections.
Also, all the tools you mention, as well as the Cobras, have reverse-curve picks, which do not perform as well as curved picks for self-arrest. Just something to keep in mind.
[ This Message was edited by: hallm on 2002-12-24 11:23 ]
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tradklime
Dec 27, 2002, 3:07 AM
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Registered: Aug 2, 2002
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In my opinion, the best of the 3 you mentioned are the grivels.
My favorite tools are Stanley Alpine Mantas, www.sopgear.com.
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polarwid
Jan 6, 2003, 5:40 PM
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Registered: Nov 22, 2001
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Try and find some SHRIKES. They swing well for water ice, and are also good for mountaineering. I just got a pair, new and cheap from E-Bay and love them.
[ This Message was edited by: polarwid on 2003-01-06 10:45 ]
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pbjosh
Jan 6, 2003, 6:16 PM
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Registered: Mar 22, 2002
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Best all around tool? Cobras.
Best WI tool - Cobra or Quark, depending on preference, hand size, and conditions.
Best Alpine tool - Pulsar, Shrike, etc. My personal combo is a Grivel Air Tech Racing and a Shrike straight shaft hammer.
Best Mixed tool - Viper or Quark Ergo, but more realistically a modified Viper is the best I've used.
I personally don't care for Grivel Ice Tools, though their mountaineering axes are the $#!&.
josh
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