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Mikaelm
Dec 18, 2010, 5:12 AM
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Registered: May 9, 2009
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The other day I was being stupid and started setting a crimpy route before I warmed up. I then decided to give a few of the moves a try. After I finished I warmed up and had a regular climbing day. The next day I come to the gym and I notice that whenever I stress my ring finger while my two top joints are perpendicular to my hand and the bottom joint there is a pain in my palm. It was also a little painful to make a fist. Now, I can make a fist with basically no pain (2 days later) but stressing my finger in that particular way still hurts. However, I can push it fully extended away from my hand with no pain and move it with no pain.
I was wondering if anyone else had any info on this, and what kind of recovery time I could expect.
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onceahardman
Dec 18, 2010, 7:43 PM
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Mikaelm wrote: The other day I was being stupid and started setting a crimpy route before I warmed up. I then decided to give a few of the moves a try. After I finished I warmed up and had a regular climbing day. The next day I come to the gym and I notice that whenever I stress my ring finger while my two top joints are perpendicular to my hand and the bottom joint there is a pain in my palm. It was also a little painful to make a fist. Now, I can make a fist with basically no pain (2 days later) but stressing my finger in that particular way still hurts. However, I can push it fully extended away from my hand with no pain and move it with no pain. I was wondering if anyone else had any info on this, and what kind of recovery time I could expect.
Sounds like a lumbrical strain. Lumbricals are small muscles which are intrinsic to the hand.
You might find this article useful:
http://www.marski.org/...s_mao/lumbricals.pdf
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Mikaelm
Jan 17, 2011, 9:50 PM
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After a month of no climbing I went to the gym and had some mild discomfort. I then pulled on the wrong hold and felt a decent amount of pain in my finger where it previously hurt. Today (the day after) it feels a great deal better and basically back to where I was before I went to the gym. I was wondering if it would be dangerous for me to buddy tape and continue climbing on really easy stuff and to do some campusing since big holds or slopers cause no pain at all.
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onceahardman
Jan 17, 2011, 11:26 PM
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Did you read the "discussion" section of the paper I linked?
While I'd agree there is not a "cookbook" prescription, i.e., "do 3 sets of 10 of exercise #1 every six hours", there is enough background presented to figure out how to treat the injury. Buddy taping may help too.
Also, in case you didn't know, or couldn't find relible information, "Intrinsic minus" position is extended MCPs, flexed PIPs and DIPs.
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Mikaelm
Jan 18, 2011, 12:04 AM
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Thanks that put my mind at ease I remember reading this last month but somehow it slipped my mind.
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