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notapplicable


Dec 17, 2010, 9:44 PM
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Re: [AustinCooper] How am I doing? [In reply to]
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AustinCooper wrote:
notapplicable wrote:
johnwesely wrote:
AustinCooper wrote:
johnwesely wrote:
AustinCooper wrote:
brian_h wrote:
AustinCooper wrote:
Congratulations! Keep climbing hard and pushing your limit and maybe you'll be the next Chris Sharma!
I thought you were going to be the next Chris Sharma...don't smash his hopes like you smashed mine...

Oh c'mon man. Sorry for "smashing your hopes". I didn't mean to. Work hard, and maybe one day you will be climbing 5.14d and V15. I always wish you the best in your climbing. Good luck Brian.

Austin, after my recent success, do you think I should take a short break to recover or try and ride the wave and keep pushing hard?

It's up to you, but I would do both. I would probably take a day off and then push hard again the next day. You don't necessarily have to take a day off of no climbing. Sometimes I'll take a day off but still go to the gym and just climb easy stuff, just enough to stretch out. There is one flaw in this method though....sometimes it's very tempting to get on another 5.13. There's nothing wrong with that, but it's usually a good idea to give your body a day to recover.

I will keep this in mind. Good luck on your green route.

The green route is over his head.

Oh, really? Because John just sent it yesterday. Over his head? I don't think so. Great job John!

Your head. The green route is over your head.


curt


Dec 17, 2010, 10:08 PM
Post #127 of 147 (2157 views)
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Re: [danabart] How am I doing? [In reply to]
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danabart wrote:
Have you thought about shacking up with some horny old lady? She'll give you pocket money, and the amount of time spent in bed probably won't seriously interfere with your climbing habit. Try the Uberfall during the spring and fall - they're everywhere.

Plus, it's still basically "sponsorship" if you paint with a broad enough brush.

Curt


gunkiemike


Dec 18, 2010, 5:21 AM
Post #128 of 147 (2139 views)
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Re: [esander4] How am I doing? [In reply to]
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esander4 wrote:
Ok so all being an asshole aside, the green is a fuckin hard route. I've sent the green there (I find their ratings to be a little soft though. A lot of other gyms rate much harder, I can climb 5.13 at Miramont but only 5.12 other gyms). Those last two moves are tough, but IMO not as tough as the start. The only reason they probably seem tougher is, well, they're the last two moves. But for someone with a strength in crimps, you should send it pretty soon.

My LEAST favorite route at miramont isn't even a lead route. It's a top rope route on the far right side of the wall on a slab. It has a green 5.11, a blue 5.10 and either a purple or a red 5.8, I can't remember. The route is the 5.10, called "Get Some". It was easy, but for someone tall like me all the stemming with lots of hand/feet matching was killing my body. There's also a new 5.12- to the right of those routes that I got to do the "indoor first ascent" of. That's my new favorite route. It starts off slab, then overhang, then slab again.

There's a 5.11- (don't remember color) that's on the same wall as the 5.9 red colored lead test, the wall with the ceiling 5 feet off the ground. I still haven't been able to send that one. I think I've gotten halfway at the most. It blows my mind how I can climb a 5.13- route there but I can't send a relatively simple 5.11-. Then again, I've never tried it earlier in the day, I've always jumped on it right before I leave and I'm dead in my arms.

Some serious advice, find another gym to climb at if you really want to rate yourself. You said before Miramont is one of the toughest rated gyms. That may be true for boulder problems there (which they actually made a little softer recently due to some recent events) but for rope climbing the ratings are soft. Take the five minute car ride to CSU's climbing wall, they like to sandbag their routes. Plus, that boulder outside....pretty damn fun.

You should write a guidebook for the place. Seriously.


Gmburns2000


Dec 18, 2010, 5:26 AM
Post #129 of 147 (2138 views)
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Re: [notapplicable] How am I doing? [In reply to]
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notapplicable wrote:
johnwesely wrote:
AustinCooper wrote:
johnwesely wrote:
AustinCooper wrote:
brian_h wrote:
AustinCooper wrote:
Congratulations! Keep climbing hard and pushing your limit and maybe you'll be the next Chris Sharma!
I thought you were going to be the next Chris Sharma...don't smash his hopes like you smashed mine...

Oh c'mon man. Sorry for "smashing your hopes". I didn't mean to. Work hard, and maybe one day you will be climbing 5.14d and V15. I always wish you the best in your climbing. Good luck Brian.

Austin, after my recent success, do you think I should take a short break to recover or try and ride the wave and keep pushing hard?

It's up to you, but I would do both. I would probably take a day off and then push hard again the next day. You don't necessarily have to take a day off of no climbing. Sometimes I'll take a day off but still go to the gym and just climb easy stuff, just enough to stretch out. There is one flaw in this method though....sometimes it's very tempting to get on another 5.13. There's nothing wrong with that, but it's usually a good idea to give your body a day to recover.

I will keep this in mind. Good luck on your green route.

The green route is over his head.

aren't all routes until you've made it to the top?


AustinCooper


Dec 18, 2010, 7:01 AM
Post #130 of 147 (2127 views)
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Re: [Gmburns2000] How am I doing? [In reply to]
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Gmburns2000 wrote:
notapplicable wrote:
johnwesely wrote:
AustinCooper wrote:
johnwesely wrote:
AustinCooper wrote:
brian_h wrote:
AustinCooper wrote:
Congratulations! Keep climbing hard and pushing your limit and maybe you'll be the next Chris Sharma!
I thought you were going to be the next Chris Sharma...don't smash his hopes like you smashed mine...

Oh c'mon man. Sorry for "smashing your hopes". I didn't mean to. Work hard, and maybe one day you will be climbing 5.14d and V15. I always wish you the best in your climbing. Good luck Brian.

Austin, after my recent success, do you think I should take a short break to recover or try and ride the wave and keep pushing hard?

It's up to you, but I would do both. I would probably take a day off and then push hard again the next day. You don't necessarily have to take a day off of no climbing. Sometimes I'll take a day off but still go to the gym and just climb easy stuff, just enough to stretch out. There is one flaw in this method though....sometimes it's very tempting to get on another 5.13. There's nothing wrong with that, but it's usually a good idea to give your body a day to recover.

I will keep this in mind. Good luck on your green route.

The green route is over his head.

aren't all routes until you've made it to the top?

Haha! I was just about to say the same thing. Yes...the green route is over my head...quite literally.


esander4


Dec 18, 2010, 9:26 AM
Post #131 of 147 (2114 views)
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Re: [gunkiemike] How am I doing? [In reply to]
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gunkiemike wrote:
esander4 wrote:
Ok so all being an asshole aside, the green is a fuckin hard route. I've sent the green there (I find their ratings to be a little soft though. A lot of other gyms rate much harder, I can climb 5.13 at Miramont but only 5.12 other gyms). Those last two moves are tough, but IMO not as tough as the start. The only reason they probably seem tougher is, well, they're the last two moves. But for someone with a strength in crimps, you should send it pretty soon.

My LEAST favorite route at miramont isn't even a lead route. It's a top rope route on the far right side of the wall on a slab. It has a green 5.11, a blue 5.10 and either a purple or a red 5.8, I can't remember. The route is the 5.10, called "Get Some". It was easy, but for someone tall like me all the stemming with lots of hand/feet matching was killing my body. There's also a new 5.12- to the right of those routes that I got to do the "indoor first ascent" of. That's my new favorite route. It starts off slab, then overhang, then slab again.

There's a 5.11- (don't remember color) that's on the same wall as the 5.9 red colored lead test, the wall with the ceiling 5 feet off the ground. I still haven't been able to send that one. I think I've gotten halfway at the most. It blows my mind how I can climb a 5.13- route there but I can't send a relatively simple 5.11-. Then again, I've never tried it earlier in the day, I've always jumped on it right before I leave and I'm dead in my arms.

Some serious advice, find another gym to climb at if you really want to rate yourself. You said before Miramont is one of the toughest rated gyms. That may be true for boulder problems there (which they actually made a little softer recently due to some recent events) but for rope climbing the ratings are soft. Take the five minute car ride to CSU's climbing wall, they like to sandbag their routes. Plus, that boulder outside....pretty damn fun.

You should write a guidebook for the place. Seriously.

Haha if only outside you could go and see little tape markings below each route telling you the grade, I would have the same enthusiasm about describing the routes. But when i try to describe outside routes to people, it comes out as "well...there was the rock....it was a 5.whatever....i climbed it.....yeah, that's what happened."


AustinCooper


Dec 18, 2010, 11:33 PM
Post #132 of 147 (2064 views)
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Re: [esander4] How am I doing? [In reply to]
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In reply to:
Haha if only outside you could go and see little tape markings below each route telling you the grade, I would have the same enthusiasm about describing the routes. But when i try to describe outside routes to people, it comes out as "well...there was the rock....it was a 5.whatever....i climbed it.....yeah, that's what happened."

I know, right?! I know exactly what you mean. Haha what if someone actually did tape each route or problem outdoors...? Wow, that would be a sight...


Partner happiegrrrl


Dec 19, 2010, 9:21 AM
Post #133 of 147 (2030 views)
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Re: [AustinCooper] How am I doing? [In reply to]
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In a lotta places they do. It's called chalked up holds and tick marks.

Chalk - the scourge of the onsight climber!


I_do


Dec 19, 2010, 2:30 PM
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Re: [happiegrrrl] How am I doing? [In reply to]
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happiegrrrl wrote:
In a lotta places they do. It's called chalked up holds and tick marks.

Chalk - the scourge of the onsight climber!

In europe it IS actually reasonably common to have names or ratings at the bottom of the climb written on the rock quite convenient actually.


AustinCooper


Dec 19, 2010, 9:10 PM
Post #135 of 147 (1963 views)
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Re: [I_do] How am I doing? [In reply to]
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I_do wrote:
happiegrrrl wrote:
In a lotta places they do. It's called chalked up holds and tick marks.

Chalk - the scourge of the onsight climber!

In europe it IS actually reasonably common to have names or ratings at the bottom of the climb written on the rock quite convenient actually.

Really?? That's very interesting. I guess that's kind of a cool way to do it but that's strange that's actually how it's done in Europe. Maybe one of these days I'll have to take a trip to Europe and see it for myself...


DRDTbone


Dec 20, 2010, 7:42 AM
Post #136 of 147 (1934 views)
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Re: [johnwesely] How am I doing? [In reply to]
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johnwesely wrote:
AustinCooper wrote:
DRDTbone wrote:
Have you even seen the green route? I doubt you'd be tossing around encouragement so willy-nilly like that if you'd actually witnessed it.

No I haven't, and that's a valid point. Whether John does it or not, the point I'm trying to get across is that we should still be supportive because he's found something that really motivates him and causes him to crank harder. John could easily just be sitting at home on his couch, but instead he's found something that's inspiring him to go to the gym and be active and push his limit. I think more people should be like John.

Thanks for the encouragement Austin. I spent twelve hours at the gym yesterday, and I finally sent the route! It was a monumental effort. I must have given it twenty burns yesterday. At closing time, I was dead tired and about to just give up, but I remembered your words of encouragement and decided to give it one more go. This time, everything clicked. I cruised the technical crux and managed my way through the red point crux. At the top, I had a foot slip and nearly fell, but I knew this was my only shot. I held on with all of my strength and campused the last move.With my last remaining ounce of strength, I clipped the chains.

Here is a picture of the route. I am sorry it is so poor, but the lighting is bad in the gym. The route is the green one that goes up the prow in the middle of the photo. For what its worth, it is rated 13c.

Thanks for the encouragement Austin. Your enthusiasm and determination is an inspiration to us all.

John, you're a fucking beast! Your words alone paint a flawless picture of this amazing ascent. How were the conditions? I'd assume that Georgia is starting to cool off, have they even turned on the heater yet? I hate when I have to wear a sweatshirt in the gym, too much weight ya know, and sometimes they get stuck in the autobelays when I'm going for the best moves. Plus when my hands get cold, well, don't even get me started.


johnwesely


Dec 20, 2010, 8:08 AM
Post #137 of 147 (1924 views)
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Re: [DRDTbone] How am I doing? [In reply to]
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DRDTbone wrote:
johnwesely wrote:
AustinCooper wrote:
DRDTbone wrote:
Have you even seen the green route? I doubt you'd be tossing around encouragement so willy-nilly like that if you'd actually witnessed it.

No I haven't, and that's a valid point. Whether John does it or not, the point I'm trying to get across is that we should still be supportive because he's found something that really motivates him and causes him to crank harder. John could easily just be sitting at home on his couch, but instead he's found something that's inspiring him to go to the gym and be active and push his limit. I think more people should be like John.

Thanks for the encouragement Austin. I spent twelve hours at the gym yesterday, and I finally sent the route! It was a monumental effort. I must have given it twenty burns yesterday. At closing time, I was dead tired and about to just give up, but I remembered your words of encouragement and decided to give it one more go. This time, everything clicked. I cruised the technical crux and managed my way through the red point crux. At the top, I had a foot slip and nearly fell, but I knew this was my only shot. I held on with all of my strength and campused the last move.With my last remaining ounce of strength, I clipped the chains.

Here is a picture of the route. I am sorry it is so poor, but the lighting is bad in the gym. The route is the green one that goes up the prow in the middle of the photo. For what its worth, it is rated 13c.

Thanks for the encouragement Austin. Your enthusiasm and determination is an inspiration to us all.

John, you're a fucking beast! Your words alone paint a flawless picture of this amazing ascent. How were the conditions? I'd assume that Georgia is starting to cool off, have they even turned on the heater yet? I hate when I have to wear a sweatshirt in the gym, too much weight ya know, and sometimes they get stuck in the autobelays when I'm going for the best moves. Plus when my hands get cold, well, don't even get me started.

The heater was on full blast, making for some rather manky conditions, but I pushed through it and made an incredible ascent.


DRDTbone


Dec 20, 2010, 8:23 AM
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Re: [johnwesely] How am I doing? [In reply to]
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johnwesely wrote:
DRDTbone wrote:
johnwesely wrote:
AustinCooper wrote:
DRDTbone wrote:
Have you even seen the green route? I doubt you'd be tossing around encouragement so willy-nilly like that if you'd actually witnessed it.

No I haven't, and that's a valid point. Whether John does it or not, the point I'm trying to get across is that we should still be supportive because he's found something that really motivates him and causes him to crank harder. John could easily just be sitting at home on his couch, but instead he's found something that's inspiring him to go to the gym and be active and push his limit. I think more people should be like John.

Thanks for the encouragement Austin. I spent twelve hours at the gym yesterday, and I finally sent the route! It was a monumental effort. I must have given it twenty burns yesterday. At closing time, I was dead tired and about to just give up, but I remembered your words of encouragement and decided to give it one more go. This time, everything clicked. I cruised the technical crux and managed my way through the red point crux. At the top, I had a foot slip and nearly fell, but I knew this was my only shot. I held on with all of my strength and campused the last move.With my last remaining ounce of strength, I clipped the chains.

Here is a picture of the route. I am sorry it is so poor, but the lighting is bad in the gym. The route is the green one that goes up the prow in the middle of the photo. For what its worth, it is rated 13c.

Thanks for the encouragement Austin. Your enthusiasm and determination is an inspiration to us all.

John, you're a fucking beast! Your words alone paint a flawless picture of this amazing ascent. How were the conditions? I'd assume that Georgia is starting to cool off, have they even turned on the heater yet? I hate when I have to wear a sweatshirt in the gym, too much weight ya know, and sometimes they get stuck in the autobelays when I'm going for the best moves. Plus when my hands get cold, well, don't even get me started.

The heater was on full blast, making for some rather manky conditions, but I pushed through it and made an incredible ascent.

Ugh nasty, and they always put the water fountain so far away too, I mean who do I have to assault to get some intelligent facility planning around here?


brian_h


Dec 20, 2010, 2:14 PM
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Re: [AustinCooper] How am I doing? [In reply to]
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AustinCooper wrote:
I_do wrote:
happiegrrrl wrote:
In a lotta places they do. It's called chalked up holds and tick marks.

Chalk - the scourge of the onsight climber!

In europe it IS actually reasonably common to have names or ratings at the bottom of the climb written on the rock quite convenient actually.

Really?? That's very interesting. I guess that's kind of a cool way to do it but that's strange that's actually how it's done in Europe. Maybe one of these days I'll have to take a trip to Europe and see it for myself...
Dude don't sweat it, I'm sure one of your sponsors will send you over there before too long.


jomagam


Dec 20, 2010, 3:13 PM
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I've seen some routes at RRG, Kentucky with the name and rating scratched into a 1-inch diameter aluminum plate which is then glued to the rock.


Partner happiegrrrl


Dec 20, 2010, 3:31 PM
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At the Gunks, we have Voice Recognition software to help people who lack orienteering skills identify the routes.

You don't believe me? Try it next time you're up there. Just yell out "What route is this?" anywhere in the Trapps and shortly a voice will provide the information. While not ALL the routes have this feature, the popular TR Cluster spots sure do....


crazy_fingers84


Dec 20, 2010, 4:05 PM
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Re: [AustinCooper] How am I doing? [In reply to]
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AustinCooper wrote:
In reply to:
Haha if only outside you could go and see little tape markings below each route telling you the grade, I would have the same enthusiasm about describing the routes. But when i try to describe outside routes to people, it comes out as "well...there was the rock....it was a 5.whatever....i climbed it.....yeah, that's what happened."

I know, right?! I know exactly what you mean. Haha what if someone actually did tape each route or problem outdoors...? Wow, that would be a sight...

who is trolling who here? ... im confusedCrazy


Gmburns2000


Dec 20, 2010, 4:42 PM
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Re: [happiegrrrl] How am I doing? [In reply to]
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happiegrrrl wrote:
At the Gunks, we have Voice Recognition software to help people who lack orienteering skills identify the routes.

You don't believe me? Try it next time you're up there. Just yell out "What route is this?" anywhere in the Trapps and shortly a voice will provide the information. While not ALL the routes have this feature, the popular TR Cluster spots sure do....

that was pretty funny.Laugh


justroberto


Dec 20, 2010, 4:43 PM
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crazy_fingers84 wrote:
AustinCooper wrote:
In reply to:
Haha if only outside you could go and see little tape markings below each route telling you the grade, I would have the same enthusiasm about describing the routes. But when i try to describe outside routes to people, it comes out as "well...there was the rock....it was a 5.whatever....i climbed it.....yeah, that's what happened."

I know, right?! I know exactly what you mean. Haha what if someone actually did tape each route or problem outdoors...? Wow, that would be a sight...

who is trolling who here? ... im confusedCrazy
It's some sort of Rube Goldberg troll. If we're lucky, it will consume and destroy the whole website, setting us all free.


spikeddem


Dec 21, 2010, 8:36 AM
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justroberto wrote:
crazy_fingers84 wrote:
AustinCooper wrote:
In reply to:
Haha if only outside you could go and see little tape markings below each route telling you the grade, I would have the same enthusiasm about describing the routes. But when i try to describe outside routes to people, it comes out as "well...there was the rock....it was a 5.whatever....i climbed it.....yeah, that's what happened."

I know, right?! I know exactly what you mean. Haha what if someone actually did tape each route or problem outdoors...? Wow, that would be a sight...

who is trolling who here? ... im confusedCrazy
It's some sort of Rube Goldberg troll. If we're lucky, it will consume and destroy the whole website, setting us all free.

An elegant theory.


Partner happiegrrrl


Dec 21, 2010, 8:50 AM
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Re: [spikeddem] How am I doing? [In reply to]
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Don't ask for whom the troll trolls; it trolls for thee?


Vegasclimber10


Dec 21, 2010, 10:26 AM
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happiegrrrl wrote:
Don't ask for whom the troll trolls; it trolls for thee?

Oyyy veyyy....too early for that one, my head hurts now .... lol *rimshot*

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