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notapplicable
Dec 17, 2010, 9:44 PM
Post #126 of 147
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AustinCooper wrote: notapplicable wrote: johnwesely wrote: AustinCooper wrote: johnwesely wrote: AustinCooper wrote: brian_h wrote: AustinCooper wrote: Congratulations! Keep climbing hard and pushing your limit and maybe you'll be the next Chris Sharma! I thought you were going to be the next Chris Sharma...don't smash his hopes like you smashed mine... Oh c'mon man. Sorry for "smashing your hopes". I didn't mean to. Work hard, and maybe one day you will be climbing 5.14d and V15. I always wish you the best in your climbing. Good luck Brian. Austin, after my recent success, do you think I should take a short break to recover or try and ride the wave and keep pushing hard? It's up to you, but I would do both. I would probably take a day off and then push hard again the next day. You don't necessarily have to take a day off of no climbing. Sometimes I'll take a day off but still go to the gym and just climb easy stuff, just enough to stretch out. There is one flaw in this method though....sometimes it's very tempting to get on another 5.13. There's nothing wrong with that, but it's usually a good idea to give your body a day to recover. I will keep this in mind. Good luck on your green route. The green route is over his head. Oh, really? Because John just sent it yesterday. Over his head? I don't think so. Great job John! Your head. The green route is over your head.
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curt
Dec 17, 2010, 10:08 PM
Post #127 of 147
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Registered: Aug 26, 2002
Posts: 18043
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danabart wrote: Have you thought about shacking up with some horny old lady? She'll give you pocket money, and the amount of time spent in bed probably won't seriously interfere with your climbing habit. Try the Uberfall during the spring and fall - they're everywhere. Plus, it's still basically "sponsorship" if you paint with a broad enough brush. Curt
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gunkiemike
Dec 18, 2010, 5:21 AM
Post #128 of 147
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esander4 wrote: Ok so all being an asshole aside, the green is a fuckin hard route. I've sent the green there (I find their ratings to be a little soft though. A lot of other gyms rate much harder, I can climb 5.13 at Miramont but only 5.12 other gyms). Those last two moves are tough, but IMO not as tough as the start. The only reason they probably seem tougher is, well, they're the last two moves. But for someone with a strength in crimps, you should send it pretty soon. My LEAST favorite route at miramont isn't even a lead route. It's a top rope route on the far right side of the wall on a slab. It has a green 5.11, a blue 5.10 and either a purple or a red 5.8, I can't remember. The route is the 5.10, called "Get Some". It was easy, but for someone tall like me all the stemming with lots of hand/feet matching was killing my body. There's also a new 5.12- to the right of those routes that I got to do the "indoor first ascent" of. That's my new favorite route. It starts off slab, then overhang, then slab again. There's a 5.11- (don't remember color) that's on the same wall as the 5.9 red colored lead test, the wall with the ceiling 5 feet off the ground. I still haven't been able to send that one. I think I've gotten halfway at the most. It blows my mind how I can climb a 5.13- route there but I can't send a relatively simple 5.11-. Then again, I've never tried it earlier in the day, I've always jumped on it right before I leave and I'm dead in my arms. Some serious advice, find another gym to climb at if you really want to rate yourself. You said before Miramont is one of the toughest rated gyms. That may be true for boulder problems there (which they actually made a little softer recently due to some recent events) but for rope climbing the ratings are soft. Take the five minute car ride to CSU's climbing wall, they like to sandbag their routes. Plus, that boulder outside....pretty damn fun. You should write a guidebook for the place. Seriously.
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Gmburns2000
Dec 18, 2010, 5:26 AM
Post #129 of 147
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Registered: Mar 6, 2007
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notapplicable wrote: johnwesely wrote: AustinCooper wrote: johnwesely wrote: AustinCooper wrote: brian_h wrote: AustinCooper wrote: Congratulations! Keep climbing hard and pushing your limit and maybe you'll be the next Chris Sharma! I thought you were going to be the next Chris Sharma...don't smash his hopes like you smashed mine... Oh c'mon man. Sorry for "smashing your hopes". I didn't mean to. Work hard, and maybe one day you will be climbing 5.14d and V15. I always wish you the best in your climbing. Good luck Brian. Austin, after my recent success, do you think I should take a short break to recover or try and ride the wave and keep pushing hard? It's up to you, but I would do both. I would probably take a day off and then push hard again the next day. You don't necessarily have to take a day off of no climbing. Sometimes I'll take a day off but still go to the gym and just climb easy stuff, just enough to stretch out. There is one flaw in this method though....sometimes it's very tempting to get on another 5.13. There's nothing wrong with that, but it's usually a good idea to give your body a day to recover. I will keep this in mind. Good luck on your green route. The green route is over his head. aren't all routes until you've made it to the top?
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AustinCooper
Dec 18, 2010, 7:01 AM
Post #130 of 147
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Registered: Dec 12, 2010
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Gmburns2000 wrote: notapplicable wrote: johnwesely wrote: AustinCooper wrote: johnwesely wrote: AustinCooper wrote: brian_h wrote: AustinCooper wrote: Congratulations! Keep climbing hard and pushing your limit and maybe you'll be the next Chris Sharma! I thought you were going to be the next Chris Sharma...don't smash his hopes like you smashed mine... Oh c'mon man. Sorry for "smashing your hopes". I didn't mean to. Work hard, and maybe one day you will be climbing 5.14d and V15. I always wish you the best in your climbing. Good luck Brian. Austin, after my recent success, do you think I should take a short break to recover or try and ride the wave and keep pushing hard? It's up to you, but I would do both. I would probably take a day off and then push hard again the next day. You don't necessarily have to take a day off of no climbing. Sometimes I'll take a day off but still go to the gym and just climb easy stuff, just enough to stretch out. There is one flaw in this method though....sometimes it's very tempting to get on another 5.13. There's nothing wrong with that, but it's usually a good idea to give your body a day to recover. I will keep this in mind. Good luck on your green route. The green route is over his head. aren't all routes until you've made it to the top? Haha! I was just about to say the same thing. Yes...the green route is over my head...quite literally.
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esander4
Dec 18, 2010, 9:26 AM
Post #131 of 147
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Registered: Nov 7, 2010
Posts: 245
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gunkiemike wrote: esander4 wrote: Ok so all being an asshole aside, the green is a fuckin hard route. I've sent the green there (I find their ratings to be a little soft though. A lot of other gyms rate much harder, I can climb 5.13 at Miramont but only 5.12 other gyms). Those last two moves are tough, but IMO not as tough as the start. The only reason they probably seem tougher is, well, they're the last two moves. But for someone with a strength in crimps, you should send it pretty soon. My LEAST favorite route at miramont isn't even a lead route. It's a top rope route on the far right side of the wall on a slab. It has a green 5.11, a blue 5.10 and either a purple or a red 5.8, I can't remember. The route is the 5.10, called "Get Some". It was easy, but for someone tall like me all the stemming with lots of hand/feet matching was killing my body. There's also a new 5.12- to the right of those routes that I got to do the "indoor first ascent" of. That's my new favorite route. It starts off slab, then overhang, then slab again. There's a 5.11- (don't remember color) that's on the same wall as the 5.9 red colored lead test, the wall with the ceiling 5 feet off the ground. I still haven't been able to send that one. I think I've gotten halfway at the most. It blows my mind how I can climb a 5.13- route there but I can't send a relatively simple 5.11-. Then again, I've never tried it earlier in the day, I've always jumped on it right before I leave and I'm dead in my arms. Some serious advice, find another gym to climb at if you really want to rate yourself. You said before Miramont is one of the toughest rated gyms. That may be true for boulder problems there (which they actually made a little softer recently due to some recent events) but for rope climbing the ratings are soft. Take the five minute car ride to CSU's climbing wall, they like to sandbag their routes. Plus, that boulder outside....pretty damn fun. You should write a guidebook for the place. Seriously. Haha if only outside you could go and see little tape markings below each route telling you the grade, I would have the same enthusiasm about describing the routes. But when i try to describe outside routes to people, it comes out as "well...there was the rock....it was a 5.whatever....i climbed it.....yeah, that's what happened."
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AustinCooper
Dec 18, 2010, 11:33 PM
Post #132 of 147
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Registered: Dec 12, 2010
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In reply to: Haha if only outside you could go and see little tape markings below each route telling you the grade, I would have the same enthusiasm about describing the routes. But when i try to describe outside routes to people, it comes out as "well...there was the rock....it was a 5.whatever....i climbed it.....yeah, that's what happened." I know, right?! I know exactly what you mean. Haha what if someone actually did tape each route or problem outdoors...? Wow, that would be a sight...
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happiegrrrl
Dec 19, 2010, 9:21 AM
Post #133 of 147
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Registered: Mar 25, 2004
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In a lotta places they do. It's called chalked up holds and tick marks. Chalk - the scourge of the onsight climber!
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I_do
Dec 19, 2010, 2:30 PM
Post #134 of 147
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happiegrrrl wrote: In a lotta places they do. It's called chalked up holds and tick marks. Chalk - the scourge of the onsight climber! In europe it IS actually reasonably common to have names or ratings at the bottom of the climb written on the rock quite convenient actually.
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AustinCooper
Dec 19, 2010, 9:10 PM
Post #135 of 147
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Registered: Dec 12, 2010
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I_do wrote: happiegrrrl wrote: In a lotta places they do. It's called chalked up holds and tick marks. Chalk - the scourge of the onsight climber! In europe it IS actually reasonably common to have names or ratings at the bottom of the climb written on the rock quite convenient actually. Really?? That's very interesting. I guess that's kind of a cool way to do it but that's strange that's actually how it's done in Europe. Maybe one of these days I'll have to take a trip to Europe and see it for myself...
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DRDTbone
Dec 20, 2010, 7:42 AM
Post #136 of 147
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Registered: Aug 12, 2010
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johnwesely wrote: AustinCooper wrote: DRDTbone wrote: Have you even seen the green route? I doubt you'd be tossing around encouragement so willy-nilly like that if you'd actually witnessed it. No I haven't, and that's a valid point. Whether John does it or not, the point I'm trying to get across is that we should still be supportive because he's found something that really motivates him and causes him to crank harder. John could easily just be sitting at home on his couch, but instead he's found something that's inspiring him to go to the gym and be active and push his limit. I think more people should be like John. Thanks for the encouragement Austin. I spent twelve hours at the gym yesterday, and I finally sent the route! It was a monumental effort. I must have given it twenty burns yesterday. At closing time, I was dead tired and about to just give up, but I remembered your words of encouragement and decided to give it one more go. This time, everything clicked. I cruised the technical crux and managed my way through the red point crux. At the top, I had a foot slip and nearly fell, but I knew this was my only shot. I held on with all of my strength and campused the last move.With my last remaining ounce of strength, I clipped the chains. Here is a picture of the route. I am sorry it is so poor, but the lighting is bad in the gym. The route is the green one that goes up the prow in the middle of the photo. For what its worth, it is rated 13c. Thanks for the encouragement Austin. Your enthusiasm and determination is an inspiration to us all. John, you're a fucking beast! Your words alone paint a flawless picture of this amazing ascent. How were the conditions? I'd assume that Georgia is starting to cool off, have they even turned on the heater yet? I hate when I have to wear a sweatshirt in the gym, too much weight ya know, and sometimes they get stuck in the autobelays when I'm going for the best moves. Plus when my hands get cold, well, don't even get me started.
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johnwesely
Dec 20, 2010, 8:08 AM
Post #137 of 147
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Registered: Jun 12, 2006
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DRDTbone wrote: johnwesely wrote: AustinCooper wrote: DRDTbone wrote: Have you even seen the green route? I doubt you'd be tossing around encouragement so willy-nilly like that if you'd actually witnessed it. No I haven't, and that's a valid point. Whether John does it or not, the point I'm trying to get across is that we should still be supportive because he's found something that really motivates him and causes him to crank harder. John could easily just be sitting at home on his couch, but instead he's found something that's inspiring him to go to the gym and be active and push his limit. I think more people should be like John. Thanks for the encouragement Austin. I spent twelve hours at the gym yesterday, and I finally sent the route! It was a monumental effort. I must have given it twenty burns yesterday. At closing time, I was dead tired and about to just give up, but I remembered your words of encouragement and decided to give it one more go. This time, everything clicked. I cruised the technical crux and managed my way through the red point crux. At the top, I had a foot slip and nearly fell, but I knew this was my only shot. I held on with all of my strength and campused the last move.With my last remaining ounce of strength, I clipped the chains. Here is a picture of the route. I am sorry it is so poor, but the lighting is bad in the gym. The route is the green one that goes up the prow in the middle of the photo. For what its worth, it is rated 13c. Thanks for the encouragement Austin. Your enthusiasm and determination is an inspiration to us all. John, you're a fucking beast! Your words alone paint a flawless picture of this amazing ascent. How were the conditions? I'd assume that Georgia is starting to cool off, have they even turned on the heater yet? I hate when I have to wear a sweatshirt in the gym, too much weight ya know, and sometimes they get stuck in the autobelays when I'm going for the best moves. Plus when my hands get cold, well, don't even get me started. The heater was on full blast, making for some rather manky conditions, but I pushed through it and made an incredible ascent.
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DRDTbone
Dec 20, 2010, 8:23 AM
Post #138 of 147
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Registered: Aug 12, 2010
Posts: 18
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johnwesely wrote: DRDTbone wrote: johnwesely wrote: AustinCooper wrote: DRDTbone wrote: Have you even seen the green route? I doubt you'd be tossing around encouragement so willy-nilly like that if you'd actually witnessed it. No I haven't, and that's a valid point. Whether John does it or not, the point I'm trying to get across is that we should still be supportive because he's found something that really motivates him and causes him to crank harder. John could easily just be sitting at home on his couch, but instead he's found something that's inspiring him to go to the gym and be active and push his limit. I think more people should be like John. Thanks for the encouragement Austin. I spent twelve hours at the gym yesterday, and I finally sent the route! It was a monumental effort. I must have given it twenty burns yesterday. At closing time, I was dead tired and about to just give up, but I remembered your words of encouragement and decided to give it one more go. This time, everything clicked. I cruised the technical crux and managed my way through the red point crux. At the top, I had a foot slip and nearly fell, but I knew this was my only shot. I held on with all of my strength and campused the last move.With my last remaining ounce of strength, I clipped the chains. Here is a picture of the route. I am sorry it is so poor, but the lighting is bad in the gym. The route is the green one that goes up the prow in the middle of the photo. For what its worth, it is rated 13c. Thanks for the encouragement Austin. Your enthusiasm and determination is an inspiration to us all. John, you're a fucking beast! Your words alone paint a flawless picture of this amazing ascent. How were the conditions? I'd assume that Georgia is starting to cool off, have they even turned on the heater yet? I hate when I have to wear a sweatshirt in the gym, too much weight ya know, and sometimes they get stuck in the autobelays when I'm going for the best moves. Plus when my hands get cold, well, don't even get me started. The heater was on full blast, making for some rather manky conditions, but I pushed through it and made an incredible ascent. Ugh nasty, and they always put the water fountain so far away too, I mean who do I have to assault to get some intelligent facility planning around here?
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brian_h
Dec 20, 2010, 2:14 PM
Post #139 of 147
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Registered: Aug 23, 2010
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AustinCooper wrote: I_do wrote: happiegrrrl wrote: In a lotta places they do. It's called chalked up holds and tick marks. Chalk - the scourge of the onsight climber! In europe it IS actually reasonably common to have names or ratings at the bottom of the climb written on the rock quite convenient actually. Really?? That's very interesting. I guess that's kind of a cool way to do it but that's strange that's actually how it's done in Europe. Maybe one of these days I'll have to take a trip to Europe and see it for myself... Dude don't sweat it, I'm sure one of your sponsors will send you over there before too long.
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jomagam
Dec 20, 2010, 3:13 PM
Post #140 of 147
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I've seen some routes at RRG, Kentucky with the name and rating scratched into a 1-inch diameter aluminum plate which is then glued to the rock.
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happiegrrrl
Dec 20, 2010, 3:31 PM
Post #141 of 147
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Registered: Mar 25, 2004
Posts: 4533
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At the Gunks, we have Voice Recognition software to help people who lack orienteering skills identify the routes. You don't believe me? Try it next time you're up there. Just yell out "What route is this?" anywhere in the Trapps and shortly a voice will provide the information. While not ALL the routes have this feature, the popular TR Cluster spots sure do....
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crazy_fingers84
Dec 20, 2010, 4:05 PM
Post #142 of 147
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Registered: Oct 11, 2006
Posts: 418
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AustinCooper wrote: In reply to: Haha if only outside you could go and see little tape markings below each route telling you the grade, I would have the same enthusiasm about describing the routes. But when i try to describe outside routes to people, it comes out as "well...there was the rock....it was a 5.whatever....i climbed it.....yeah, that's what happened." I know, right?! I know exactly what you mean. Haha what if someone actually did tape each route or problem outdoors...? Wow, that would be a sight... who is trolling who here? ... im confused
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Gmburns2000
Dec 20, 2010, 4:42 PM
Post #143 of 147
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Registered: Mar 6, 2007
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happiegrrrl wrote: At the Gunks, we have Voice Recognition software to help people who lack orienteering skills identify the routes. You don't believe me? Try it next time you're up there. Just yell out "What route is this?" anywhere in the Trapps and shortly a voice will provide the information. While not ALL the routes have this feature, the popular TR Cluster spots sure do.... that was pretty funny.
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justroberto
Dec 20, 2010, 4:43 PM
Post #144 of 147
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Registered: Feb 21, 2006
Posts: 1874
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crazy_fingers84 wrote: AustinCooper wrote: In reply to: Haha if only outside you could go and see little tape markings below each route telling you the grade, I would have the same enthusiasm about describing the routes. But when i try to describe outside routes to people, it comes out as "well...there was the rock....it was a 5.whatever....i climbed it.....yeah, that's what happened." I know, right?! I know exactly what you mean. Haha what if someone actually did tape each route or problem outdoors...? Wow, that would be a sight... who is trolling who here? ... im confused  It's some sort of Rube Goldberg troll. If we're lucky, it will consume and destroy the whole website, setting us all free.
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spikeddem
Dec 21, 2010, 8:36 AM
Post #145 of 147
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justroberto wrote: crazy_fingers84 wrote: AustinCooper wrote: In reply to: Haha if only outside you could go and see little tape markings below each route telling you the grade, I would have the same enthusiasm about describing the routes. But when i try to describe outside routes to people, it comes out as "well...there was the rock....it was a 5.whatever....i climbed it.....yeah, that's what happened." I know, right?! I know exactly what you mean. Haha what if someone actually did tape each route or problem outdoors...? Wow, that would be a sight... who is trolling who here? ... im confused  It's some sort of Rube Goldberg troll. If we're lucky, it will consume and destroy the whole website, setting us all free. An elegant theory.
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happiegrrrl
Dec 21, 2010, 8:50 AM
Post #146 of 147
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Don't ask for whom the troll trolls; it trolls for thee?
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Vegasclimber10
Dec 21, 2010, 10:26 AM
Post #147 of 147
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Registered: Nov 23, 2010
Posts: 188
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happiegrrrl wrote: Don't ask for whom the troll trolls; it trolls for thee? Oyyy veyyy....too early for that one, my head hurts now .... lol *rimshot*
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