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J Tree - Trad V. Bouldering
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dreday3000


Dec 23, 2010, 12:25 PM
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J Tree - Trad V. Bouldering  (North_America: United_States: California: Joshua_Tree_National_Park)
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I'm headed to J Tree for the first time mid January for 1 -2 days.

Its my first time out and I'm either gonna bring a rack or my crash pad.
Which one would you recommend for a first time trip?

Me and my partner can lead between 5.9 to 5.11 and boulder between V3 - V8


erisspirit


Dec 23, 2010, 1:09 PM
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Re: [dreday3000] J Tree - Trad V. Bouldering [In reply to]
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Both can be a ton of fun. Routes can sometimes be hard to find. I personally prefer trad out there, but have definitely done full weekends of bouldering.


charlie.elverson


Dec 23, 2010, 2:22 PM
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Re: [dreday3000] J Tree - Trad V. Bouldering [In reply to]
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you can rent a crash pad from the local shop, Nomad Ventures. I'd say bring the rack and rent a pad or two when you want to boulder. I don't remember how much it was per day, but it wasn't bad.


i_h8_choss


Dec 23, 2010, 3:34 PM
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Re: [charlie.elverson] J Tree - Trad V. Bouldering [In reply to]
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charlie.elverson wrote:
you can rent a crash pad from the local shop, Nomad Ventures. I'd say bring the rack and rent a pad or two when you want to boulder. I don't remember how much it was per day, but it wasn't bad.


Im pretty sure it's 'joshua tree outfitters' which is a couple doors west of crossroads cafe is the one that rents pads. Nomads sells them.

to the op....
take yer rack. I bouldered for a couple years in Josh before leading routes. Routes are a lot of fun there. that book '60 favorite trad climbs 5.6-5.9 is fantastic. I was in Josh a little while back and led a couple dozen of those routes. Had a blast!


socalclimber


Dec 23, 2010, 8:27 PM
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Re: [i_h8_choss] J Tree - Trad V. Bouldering [In reply to]
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Yeah the Outfitters are the ones who rent crash pads.

Bring your rack. Just don't get all cocky about your leading anything 5.11 out here until you get a sample of some of the 8, 9's, and 10's.

If I had a dime for every "hardman" who shows up claiming their 5.11 abilities only to get shutdown, I'd be richer than Bill Gates.


vegastradguy


Dec 23, 2010, 11:45 PM
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Re: [socalclimber] J Tree - Trad V. Bouldering [In reply to]
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rack. you can tape your hands and climb more. a day of bouldering in jtree will shred your tips. save it for the last day.

also, i second socals post.


dugl33


Dec 24, 2010, 5:57 PM
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Re: [socalclimber] J Tree - Trad V. Bouldering [In reply to]
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socalclimber wrote:
...Just don't get all cocky about your leading anything 5.11 out here until you get a sample of some of the 8, 9's, and 10's.

If I had a dime for every "hardman" who shows up claiming their 5.11 abilities only to get shutdown, I'd be richer than Bill Gates.

Ah yes, a healthy serving of J-Tree humble pie. Drool.


dreday3000


Dec 24, 2010, 6:46 PM
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Re: [dugl33] J Tree - Trad V. Bouldering [In reply to]
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Being able to climb 5.11 hardly qualifies as being a hardman. But point taken.

Thanks for the beta on renting the pads. Think I will bring my rack and perhaps rent a pad if the bouldering looks good.

Any one got any route recommendations?


socalclimber


Dec 28, 2010, 8:11 PM
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Re: [dreday3000] J Tree - Trad V. Bouldering [In reply to]
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Sorry, it's not meant as an insult. You'll just find that the ratings out here are old school and stiff. The Outfitters also rent guide books. Start in Hidden Valley/Real Hidden Valley. There is plenty to keep you busy there.


Vegasclimber10


Dec 28, 2010, 8:21 PM
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Re: [dreday3000] J Tree - Trad V. Bouldering [In reply to]
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Sail Away, 5.8+

One of the highest rated climbs in the state and well worth it IMO. Beautiful.

Edit to add yet another +1 to socal's comment - the ratings here are pretty old school for the most part. I climb 2 grades lower here then in Red Rock - not that I'm much of a leader there yet either.

Shorter Wall also has a good selection of warm up routes to get used to the area, or Trashcan Rock if you want super easy access (picnic benches) but massive crowds, often with people who will tie up a route for hours shuttling kids or clients up and down it.


(This post was edited by Vegasclimber10 on Dec 28, 2010, 8:25 PM)


vegastradguy


Dec 28, 2010, 10:46 PM
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Re: [dreday3000] J Tree - Trad V. Bouldering [In reply to]
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dreday3000 wrote:
Being able to climb 5.11 hardly qualifies as being a hardman. But point taken.

Thanks for the beta on renting the pads. Think I will bring my rack and perhaps rent a pad if the bouldering looks good.

Any one got any route recommendations?

Hidden Valley.

Warm up on Double Cross or Dogleg, one should be free. Then poke around and see if Bearded Cabbage looks like fun or maybe lower Right Ski Track. Pinched Rib is also fun- that'll school ya in exciting Jtree descents.

Hobbit Roof is a fun/quick outing if anything is bogged down. Sidewinder and Rollerball are also great climbs. Both are exciting.

Real Hidden Valley
Sail Away is awesome, Clean and Jerk is one of the better .10s in the park. Illusion Dweller, of course- always a must do.

Theres PILES of routes out there- hard to list them all. I listed the favorites that came to mind. If you're cranking down .10s easily, then some .11s that look killer- Left Ski Track, Coarse and Buggy, and im sure piles more that others can chime in with. Ask curt- he can probably give you a list of nothing but 5-star at every grade.


socalclimber


Dec 29, 2010, 5:07 AM
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Re: [vegastradguy] J Tree - Trad V. Bouldering [In reply to]
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Here's a few more in Hidden Valley:

Damper (5.9)
The Flu (5.8)
Hands On (5.9)
The Orphan (5.9)
Dandelion (5.10a)

Also, watch Lower Right Ski Track. It lost a hold and is a tad harder these days, also watch the pro low down, bad landing if you blow it.


hyhuu


Dec 29, 2010, 7:41 AM
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Re: [socalclimber] J Tree - Trad V. Bouldering [In reply to]
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I don't think you have to worry about that. He is just being modest. The guy leads 5.12a R at Seneca so Josh 5.11 shouldn't give him any problem.

socalclimber wrote:
Yeah the Outfitters are the ones who rent crash pads.

Bring your rack. Just don't get all cocky about your leading anything 5.11 out here until you get a sample of some of the 8, 9's, and 10's.

If I had a dime for every "hardman" who shows up claiming their 5.11 abilities only to get shutdown, I'd be richer than Bill Gates.


dreday3000


Dec 29, 2010, 8:17 AM
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Re: [hyhuu] J Tree - Trad V. Bouldering [In reply to]
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Well shoot I'm blushing.

Thanks for replies, lots of good info in there.

What's the preferred guidebook for the area? The local gear shops in my area only seem to have the 60 classics under 5.9 guide. I'll probably order over the internet...


(This post was edited by dreday3000 on Dec 29, 2010, 8:24 AM)


nsullens


Dec 29, 2010, 12:01 PM
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Re: [dreday3000] J Tree - Trad V. Bouldering [In reply to]
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You should get on Heart of Darkness, Hot Rocks, More Monkey than Funky, O'Kelley's Crack, Coarse and Buggy, Misfits, EBGB's, and Swept Away. Those are the best elevens I've been on in the park and they are all pretty easy to find. Good luck!


socalclimber


Dec 29, 2010, 12:05 PM
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Re: [dreday3000] J Tree - Trad V. Bouldering [In reply to]
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dreday3000 wrote:
Well shoot I'm blushing.

Thanks for replies, lots of good info in there.

What's the preferred guidebook for the area? The local gear shops in my area only seem to have the 60 classics under 5.9 guide. I'll probably order over the internet...

Hmmm... It kinda depends. The Vogel guide is the most comprehensive, NOT THE JOSHUA TREE WEST GUIDE, the previous one with the entire park in it. The Bartlett guides are the best, simple because they are the most accurate. The problem with the Bartlett's guides is they are individual for each area. The Outfitters also rent guide books.

My comments regarding ability are largely based on fact. Sounds like you will be an exception to the rule.


snoopy138


Dec 29, 2010, 12:13 PM
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Re: [dreday3000] J Tree - Trad V. Bouldering [In reply to]
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At the grades you're looking for, I'll say get on Clean & Jerk; then take a look at the Beaver (right next to C&J). You can TR it after doing C&J, or just lead it if it looks good.

If you're just there for a couple days, you can rent the Jtree West guide, you'll just be restricted as far as where you have info to climb. But there's plenty to do in the western third of the park.


kachoong


Dec 29, 2010, 12:18 PM
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Re: [dreday3000] J Tree - Trad V. Bouldering [In reply to]
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I heard Double Cross takes good gear and has a pleasure-filled slabby start.


dreday3000


Dec 29, 2010, 1:09 PM
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Re: [socalclimber] J Tree - Trad V. Bouldering [In reply to]
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Just bought the Vogel 2nd edition. I should have it by the end of the week.

Reading all these posts is getting me pretty psyched. Thanks for all the beta.


socalclimber


Dec 29, 2010, 1:17 PM
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Re: [dreday3000] J Tree - Trad V. Bouldering [In reply to]
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Based on the new info, I'd say Course & Buggy will keep ya busy!!!!


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