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Ice Climbing NY GoPro Hd Hero Wide
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Roughedges


Dec 27, 2010, 9:34 PM
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Ice Climbing NY GoPro Hd Hero Wide
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Just went Ice climbing for the first time. Took some footage. Here is a Rough Cut. This is a route I tried twice and nailed the second time. I know Im not good but this is my first time.

A little backround. I started climbing about 4 months ago. Could not even do a pull up before that. Trained 4-5 days a week for most of the time with one week a month off. Now my max is about 5.10/v5-6. I tried to train for this as best as possible. Lots of reading on the forums. I guess it worked because the guide did say I was in good shape. I did about 8 routes this day.


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dsqXeD7DNhQ










rocknice2


Dec 29, 2010, 7:03 PM
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Re: [Roughedges] Ice Climbing NY GoPro Hd Hero Wide [In reply to]
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YouTube's roughedgesMR wrote:

Just found the climb. Its No. 8, Asbestos Wall W12+/M
Welcome to ice climbing.
It's great that you enjoy it.

FYI It's WI2+ as in Winter Ice
W12+ is about 5 full grade above world class level.

Keep at it maybe 1 day.
If you can, come up to the Dacks in the future. It's well worth the trip.


(This post was edited by rocknice2 on Dec 29, 2010, 7:05 PM)


Roughedges


Dec 29, 2010, 8:14 PM
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Re: [rocknice2] Ice Climbing NY GoPro Hd Hero Wide [In reply to]
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Thanks. I just dont understand this part.

FYI It's WI2+ as in Winter Ice
W12+ is about 5 full grade above world class level.

I know its a w12+ I thought a W12 was the easiest. Not sure of these ratings. I only know bouldering and climbing ratings. What makes the plus?

And you mean is 5 full grades under world class.


rocknice2


Dec 30, 2010, 6:37 AM
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Re: [Roughedges] Ice Climbing NY GoPro Hd Hero Wide [In reply to]
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OK I made an error
It's wi_2+ as in water ice 2+, hence the wi
As far as I know WI7+ is the top of the scale

yes, wi2+ is an easy grade

WI numeric scaleThis system measures the difficulty of routes on water ice. The WI scale currently spans grades from 17. There also exists a rating scale for Alpine Ice (compacted snow/ glacial ice) that has the same rating system as the "WI" system, but is instead denoted by "AI." The primary difference between the two is the density of the ice, Water Ice being much more dense.

WI2 - low-angled (60 degree consistent ice), with good technique can be easily climbed with one ice axe. Grades beyond this generally require the use of two ice tools.

WI3 - generally sustained in the 60-70 degree range with occasional near-vertical steps up to 4 metres (Cascade Waterfall, Banff; This House of Sky, Ghost River)

WI4 - near-vertical steps of up to 10 metres, generally sustained climbing requiring placing protection screws from strenuous stances (Professor's Falls, Banff; Weeping Wall Left, Icefields Parkway, Banff; Silk Tassle, Yoho; Moonlight & Snowline, Kananskis)

WI4+ - highly technical WI4. (Wicked Wanda, Ghost River)

WI5 - near-vertical or vertical steps of up to 20 metres, sustained climbing requiring placing multiple protection screws from strenuous stances with few good rests (Carlsberg Column, Field; The Sorcerer, Ghost River; Bourgeau Left Hand, Banff)

WI5+ - highly technical WI5 (Oh le Tabernac, Icefield Parkway; Hydrophobia, Ghost River; Sacre Bleu, Banff)

WI6 - vertical climbing for the entire pitch (e.g. 3060 metres) with no rests. Requires excellent technique and/or a high level of fitness (The Terminator, Banff; Nemesis, Kootenay Park; Whiteman Falls, Kananaskis Country; Riptide, Banff)

WI6+ - vertical or overhanging with no rests, and highly technical WI6 (French Maid, Yoho; French Reality, Kootenay Park)

WI7 - sustained and overhanging with no rests. Extremely rare, near-mythical, and widely accepted testpiece examples of this grade don't exist in the Canadian Rockies. Note that many routes (e.g. Sea of Vapours, Banff; Riptide, Icefield Parkway, Banff) have been assigned WI7- to WI7+ but have been subsequently downgraded in latter years as they don't meet the strict criteria of steepness. In fact some local ice climbers have argued for Sea of Vapours (WI7+ originally) to be downgraded to WI5 or even WI4 simply because it's not steep enough.


AntinJ


Dec 30, 2010, 7:08 AM
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Re: [Roughedges] Ice Climbing NY GoPro Hd Hero Wide [In reply to]
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Way to go!

Let your adventures begin.

Jason


gunkiemike


Jan 2, 2011, 9:50 AM
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Re: [Roughedges] Ice Climbing NY GoPro Hd Hero Wide [In reply to]
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That's good climbing for your first day!

(You need to clean the lens on your still camera.)


scotty1974


Jan 10, 2011, 11:41 AM
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Nice work!!

small tip...swing more from your elbow than from your shoulder with a bit of a flick at the end.

All tools will swing different but with your vipers that will help reduce your effort and get a good stick. The more you climb ice the more you'll learn to reduce your effort level. I still work on that myself but try to get and set good sticks in 1-2 swings instead of wailing on the ice. That will help to reduce some of that "fish arm" you were feeling at the top of that pillar.

Welcome to the sport!!


(This post was edited by scotty1974 on Jan 10, 2011, 11:47 AM)


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