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david7896


Dec 29, 2010, 8:50 AM
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30 ft fall to the ground
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My post today is for information to help other climbers learn what I have from my accident.
On December 22nd 2010, me and my wife (Kylie)
Were climbing at our favorite crag, Horseshoe canyon ranch just outside Jasper AR. if you have never been you really need to go.

The day was going great I was still in my warm up around noon. I was going to lead a route called frankenberry (5.9+) then we were going to eat lunch.
The route was about 60ft tall with 6 bolts. The crux was just under the 3rd bolt with a small technical roof. I made it to the the third bolt. The bolt was right at the top of the roof, to the clip in I had to get above the 3rd bolt and reach down the clip. And everyone knows, any time you have to go above your bolt it starts to get more and more dangerous. Unfortunately, out of habit I said clipping, like I always do, and Kylie gave me slack like she always does so that I can clip in. but this time I didnít need slack because I was above the bolt. And this point I have the slack from the 2nd bolt to the 3rd bolt. Then the slack about 2ft above the 3rd bolt, and the slack my belayer gave for to clip in with. TOO MUCH SLACK!!! On my way to clip with my left hand my hand slipped. I fell....and fell so more. At the bottom there was a bolder shaped like a rectangle about 4ft long 2ft wide and 2ft tall. About 2 feet above that bolder Kylie stared to catch me like she should, but due to too much slack, it was too late. Mid way through the stretch of the rope I hit the bolder heels first and then the rope snapped tight.

With Kylie in the air (because I weigh more) I hung looking into the sky screaming for help (with a few choice words). Luckily 3 climbers came to our rescue and helped Kylie down slowly so to not to hurt me anymore. And trust me I was hurting.

my first though was that broke my back, but after lying there for about ten minutes I set up and realized my heels hurt more than anything. So I put my shoes on and we packed up the gear and walked out. We went straight to the hospital. I ended up breaking the top-outside of my right foot. And on my left, the left ankle and cracked my left heal. Letís not forget about the bruises on the bottom side of both my feet and my back that hurts like none other.

The point of the post is to inform other climbers to be aware of how much slack you do have out. And that is both the climberís job and the belayerís job as well. Me and Kylie are both taking the blame for the injury. We are a team and we must be aware at all times to insure each others safty. I hope that this post will help some in the future.

I would also like to thank the three climbers for coming to help and for climbing up to get my gear. Thank you very much.


(This post was edited by david7896 on Dec 29, 2010, 9:14 AM)


bill413


Dec 29, 2010, 9:06 AM
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Re: [david7896] 30 ft fall to the ground [In reply to]
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david7896 wrote:
My post today is for information to help other climbers learn what I have from my accident.
On December 22nd 2010, me and my wife (Kylie)
Were climbing at our favorite crag, Horseshoe canyon ranch just outside Jasper AR. if you have never been you really need to go.

The day was going great I was still in my warm up around noon. I was going to lead a route called frankenberry (5.9+) then we were going to eat lunch.
The route was about 60ft tall with 6 bolts. The crux was just under the 3rd bolt with a small technical roof. I made it to the the third bolt. The bolt was right at the top of the roof, to the clip in I had to get above the 3rd bolt and reach down the clip. And everyone any time you have to go above your bolt it starts to get more and more dangerous. Unfortunately, out of habit I said clipping, like I always do, and Kylie gave me slack like she always does so that I can clip in. but this time I didnít need slack because I was above the bolt. And this point I have the slack from the 2nd bolt to the 3rd bolt. Then the slack about 2ft above the 3rd bolt, and the slack my belayer gave for to clip in with. TOO MUCH SLACK!!! On my way to clip with my left hand my hand slipped. I fell....and fell so more. At the bottom there was a bolder shaped like a rectangle about 4ft long 2ft wide and 2ft tall. About 2 feet above that bolder Kylie stared to catch me like she should, but due to too much slack, it was too late. Mid way through the stretch of the rope I hit the bolder heels first and then the rope snapped tight.

With Kylie in the air (because I weigh more) I hung looking into the sky screaming for help (with a few choice words). Luckily 3 climbers came to our rescue and helped Kylie down slowly so to not to hurt me anymore. And trust me I was hurting.

my first though was that broke my back, but after lying there for about ten minutes I set up and realized my heels hurt more than anything. So I put my shoes on and we packed up the gear and walked out. We went straight to the hospital. I ended up breaking the top-outside of my right foot. And on my left, the left ankle and cracked my left heal. Letís not forget about the bruises on the bottom side of both my feet and my back that hurts like none other.

The point of the post is to inform other climbers to be aware of how much slack you do have out. And that is both the climberís job and the belayerís job as well. Me and Kylie are both taking the blame for the injury. We are a team and we must be aware at all times to insure each others safty. I hope that this post will help some in the future.

I would also like to that the three climbers for coming to help and for climbing up to get my gear. Thank you very much.

Thank you for sharing. Hope for a speedy recovery.


billl7


Dec 29, 2010, 9:10 AM
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Re: [david7896] 30 ft fall to the ground [In reply to]
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Thanks, man.


rocknice2


Dec 29, 2010, 9:12 AM
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Re: [david7896] 30 ft fall to the ground [In reply to]
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Get well soon


Gmburns2000


Dec 29, 2010, 9:31 AM
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thanks for sharing, and a speedy recovery to you.


majid_sabet


Dec 29, 2010, 9:33 AM
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Re: [david7896] 30 ft fall to the ground [In reply to]
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not clear what the hell you were doing and how you ended up with so much slack but I assume you were climbing with the climber's autopilot on and took too many unnecessary risk without calculating "what if"

you are lucky that you are alive


david7896


Dec 29, 2010, 9:41 AM
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Re: [majid_sabet] 30 ft fall to the ground [In reply to]
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yea thats pretty much it. i wasn't focused and i payed the price. the post wasn't about me it was to help others learn what i have learned the hard way. even the smallest mistakes have there consequences.


majid_sabet


Dec 29, 2010, 9:49 AM
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Re: [david7896] 30 ft fall to the ground [In reply to]
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david7896 wrote:
yea thats pretty much it. i wasn't focused and i payed the price. the post wasn't about me it was to help others learn what i have learned the hard way. even the smallest mistakes have there consequences.

in climbing, there is no such thing as "small mistake" and every mistake has a potential of putting you six feet under dirt. seriously, if you you ended up in a wheelchair for the next 50 years, can you imagine what your wife had to deal with ?


Go book a Alaskan cruise ship and take your wife on a trip for saving your life.


boymeetsrock


Dec 29, 2010, 9:49 AM
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Re: [majid_sabet] 30 ft fall to the ground [In reply to]
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majid_sabet wrote:
not clear what the hell you were doing and how you ended up with so much slack but I assume you were climbing with the climber's autopilot on and took too many unnecessary risk without calculating "what if"

you are lucky that you are alive

Climber was above third bolt. When he called "clipping", belayer paid out unneeded slack. Climber blew the clip and fell. Between Extra slack and rope stretch climber decked.

Best wishes to you for a speedy recovery. Hope your wife recovers quickly too. Not to minimize your pain, but mental stress from this type of accident can be substantial too. Glad to see the two of you are assessing the situation and results clearly.


rocknice2


Dec 29, 2010, 9:56 AM
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Re: [majid_sabet] 30 ft fall to the ground [In reply to]
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majid_sabet wrote:
Go book a Alaskan cruise ship and take your wife on a trip for saving your life.

It's December!!!
Nothing like compounding the injury with frost bite.


david7896


Dec 29, 2010, 9:59 AM
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Re: [majid_sabet] 30 ft fall to the ground [In reply to]
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Iím not sure why you have so much hostility towards me and why you feel the need to contadick me. I know that rock climbing is dangerous and any mistake can kill. Iím sorry If the post made me sound as if I wasnít extremely grateful that my wife saved my life. But thatís between me and wife. And again I think you are missing the point of the post. It was just for information. I know what I did wrong and donít need to be ridiculed for it. I really dont want to start anything please.


(This post was edited by david7896 on Dec 29, 2010, 10:00 AM)


billl7


Dec 29, 2010, 10:01 AM
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david7896 wrote:
yea thats pretty much it. i wasn't focused and i payed the price. the post wasn't about me it was to help others learn what i have learned the hard way. even the smallest mistakes have there consequences.
Don't focus too much on majid's messages. I see them as more for unattached others who are reading from their armchairs. Injuries like yours make a lasting impression on the injured and on those close to them. I know.

Bill L


david7896


Dec 29, 2010, 10:02 AM
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thank you bill


bearbreeder


Dec 29, 2010, 10:14 AM
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Re: [majid_sabet] 30 ft fall to the ground [In reply to]
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majid_sabet wrote:

in climbing, there is no such thing as "small mistake" and every mistake has a potential of putting you six feet under dirt. seriously, if you you ended up in a wheelchair for the next 50 years, can you imagine what your wife had to deal with ?


Go book a Alaskan cruise ship and take your wife on a trip for saving your life.

climb a 5.8 lead yet majid?
Wink


Partner j_ung


Dec 29, 2010, 10:15 AM
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Re: [david7896] 30 ft fall to the ground [In reply to]
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david7896 wrote:
Iím not sure why you have so much hostility towards me and why you feel the need to contadick me. I know that rock climbing is dangerous and any mistake can kill. Iím sorry If the post made me sound as if I wasnít extremely grateful that my wife saved my life. But thatís between me and wife. And again I think you are missing the point of the post. It was just for information. I know what I did wrong and donít need to be ridiculed for it. I really dont want to start anything please.

Ignore Majid. It's a losing battle.

It sounds like you have a decent grasp of what went wrong and how to avoid it in the future. Heal quickly!


wonderwoman


Dec 29, 2010, 10:33 AM
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30 ft fall to the ground [In reply to]
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I've hidden some personal attacks in this forum. Please keep it civil in here.

To the OP, I'm glad to see that you have learned from your mistake and it does take courage to put it all out there and share your lessons in this forum. Here's to a speedy recovery.


majid_sabet


Dec 29, 2010, 10:47 AM
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Re: [david7896] 30 ft fall to the ground [In reply to]
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david7896 wrote:
Iím not sure why you have so much hostility towards me and why you feel the need to contadick me. I know that rock climbing is dangerous and any mistake can kill. Iím sorry If the post made me sound as if I wasnít extremely grateful that my wife saved my life. But thatís between me and wife. And again I think you are missing the point of the post. It was just for information. I know what I did wrong and donít need to be ridiculed for it. I really dont want to start anything please.

hey

Do not get me wrong. I have a lot of respect for climbers who come forward to talk about their mistakes, especially in RC.


majid_sabet


Dec 29, 2010, 10:48 AM
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Re: [bearbreeder] 30 ft fall to the ground [In reply to]
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bearbreeder wrote:
majid_sabet wrote:

in climbing, there is no such thing as "small mistake" and every mistake has a potential of putting you six feet under dirt. seriously, if you you ended up in a wheelchair for the next 50 years, can you imagine what your wife had to deal with ?


Go book a Alaskan cruise ship and take your wife on a trip for saving your life.

climb a 5.8 lead yet majid?
Wink

no, i need to buy some gear so what do you recommend ?


bearbreeder


Dec 29, 2010, 11:05 AM
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Re: [majid_sabet] 30 ft fall to the ground [In reply to]
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majid_sabet wrote:

no, i need to buy some gear so what do you recommend ?

i recommend that you climb 5.8 lead before telling people how to climb 5.9+ Wink


jakedatc


Dec 29, 2010, 11:07 AM
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Re: [bearbreeder] 30 ft fall to the ground [In reply to]
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Majid and Bear. This is not the forum for jokes. Someone was seriously hurt here.


(This post was edited by jakedatc on Dec 29, 2010, 11:09 AM)


kennoyce


Dec 29, 2010, 11:18 AM
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Re: [david7896] 30 ft fall to the ground [In reply to]
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david7896 wrote:
My post today is for information to help other climbers learn what I have from my accident.
On December 22nd 2010, me and my wife (Kylie)
Were climbing at our favorite crag, Horseshoe canyon ranch just outside Jasper AR. if you have never been you really need to go.

The day was going great I was still in my warm up around noon. I was going to lead a route called frankenberry (5.9+) then we were going to eat lunch.
The route was about 60ft tall with 6 bolts. The crux was just under the 3rd bolt with a small technical roof. I made it to the the third bolt. The bolt was right at the top of the roof, to the clip in I had to get above the 3rd bolt and reach down the clip. And everyone knows, any time you have to go above your bolt it starts to get more and more dangerous. Unfortunately, out of habit I said clipping, like I always do, and Kylie gave me slack like she always does so that I can clip in. but this time I didnít need slack because I was above the bolt. And this point I have the slack from the 2nd bolt to the 3rd bolt. Then the slack about 2ft above the 3rd bolt, and the slack my belayer gave for to clip in with. TOO MUCH SLACK!!! On my way to clip with my left hand my hand slipped. I fell....and fell so more. At the bottom there was a bolder shaped like a rectangle about 4ft long 2ft wide and 2ft tall. About 2 feet above that bolder Kylie stared to catch me like she should, but due to too much slack, it was too late. Mid way through the stretch of the rope I hit the bolder heels first and then the rope snapped tight.

With Kylie in the air (because I weigh more) I hung looking into the sky screaming for help (with a few choice words). Luckily 3 climbers came to our rescue and helped Kylie down slowly so to not to hurt me anymore. And trust me I was hurting.

my first though was that broke my back, but after lying there for about ten minutes I set up and realized my heels hurt more than anything. So I put my shoes on and we packed up the gear and walked out. We went straight to the hospital. I ended up breaking the top-outside of my right foot. And on my left, the left ankle and cracked my left heal. Letís not forget about the bruises on the bottom side of both my feet and my back that hurts like none other.

The point of the post is to inform other climbers to be aware of how much slack you do have out. And that is both the climberís job and the belayerís job as well. Me and Kylie are both taking the blame for the injury. We are a team and we must be aware at all times to insure each others safty. I hope that this post will help some in the future.

I would also like to thank the three climbers for coming to help and for climbing up to get my gear. Thank you very much.

Sorry about your accident and I wish you a speedy recovery. Not to criticize you but there are certainly things to be learned/remembered from this accident.

1. The second and/or third bolt of a climb is generally the most dangerous part because you are close to the ground. If you have any extra slack out in this area of a climb you can very easily deck.

2. Not that this happened, but it is important to note that when you are close to the ground you should never give a soft catch because that could mean decking. I always ask my belayer to give me a hard catch (i.e. take in slack, sit down, or whatever to keep me off the ground) until I have clipped the third bolt on many routes.

3. Climbing is a sport where you can't let your brain take a brake. You always have to be thinking about the possible outcomes of every action you take. Had you been thinking you wouldn't have asked for slack to make the clip (or said clipping as this means slack to the belayer), and you probably wouldn't have decked.

4. Belayers should be paying attention to their climbing partners whenever possible. I don't know if this was possible in your situation, but if the belayer could have seen you she would have realized that you didn't need slack to clip, she would have seen you fall, and she may have been able to take in slack as you fell to keep you off the ground.

Once again this wasn't to put you down or anything, but as always, we can all learn from mistakes. Once again, I hope you recover quickly.


david7896


Dec 29, 2010, 11:25 AM
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Re: [kennoyce] 30 ft fall to the ground [In reply to]
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thank you for the constructive criticism. that was very helpful and you are completely right.

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