Forums: Climbing Information: Accident and Incident Analysis:
NEAR MISS REPORT: The stupid mistakes edition
RSS FeedRSS Feeds for Accident and Incident Analysis

Premier Sponsor:

 
First page Previous page 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 Next page Last page  View All


billl7


Jan 3, 2011, 8:13 AM
Post #26 of 207 (7994 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Oct 13, 2005
Posts: 1888

Re: [notapplicable] NEAR MISS REPORT: The stupid mistakes edition [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Great thread and some good analysis. Thanks for starting it.

We tend to go after actual climbing accident investigation in a "leave no stone unturned" approach. Good to apply that to these reports here such as Jay's comment about strengthening the habit of checking systems before leaving the ground.

Back to the topic, I've proven to myself I'm not immune: unknotting a tied-off belay and then realizing I've got the wrong strand in the break hand (fortunately, no one fell); top roping a pitch with belay from below while not realizing the pitch is longer than half a rope length (fortunately, belayer remained tied in to that end of the rope); and being over-critical of my partner leading to lack of team work (fortunately, my partner was willing to work through it). In those cases, the common theme for me seems to be mounting hurried-ness and/or impatience.


kobaz


Jan 3, 2011, 8:45 AM
Post #27 of 207 (7972 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Sep 19, 2004
Posts: 717

Re: [socalclimber] NEAR MISS REPORT: The stupid mistakes edition [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

socalclimber wrote:
I've seen that gri gri screw a number of times over the years. I am very paranoid and triple check them every time. Great devices, but people seem to do this a lot.

Every single time I attach a grigri, or someone else attaches a grigri whose belaying me, I will pull on the climbing side to make sure it locks.


notapplicable


Jan 3, 2011, 8:55 AM
Post #28 of 207 (7967 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Aug 31, 2006
Posts: 17766

Re: [moose_droppings] NEAR MISS REPORT: The stupid mistakes edition [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (2 ratings)  
Can't Post

moose_droppings wrote:
Years back I was running laps up a top rope solo using my rescucender. I'd get to the top and remove the recucender and leave it hanging off the belay loop on a locker, then switch over to my belay device and rap the route and switch back at the bottom. After several laps I got up above the crux to take a rest and happened to look down to see I hadn't reattached the rescucender. I was free soloing without knowing it. Luckily I was able to pull up some slack and throw an 8 on a bight and clip in at this rest spot and attach the rescucender. I was a half mile from the road in an area you won't see people very often. I've always tried to do double and triple checks, but this time I missed it and got lucky.

That is terrifying.

The fact that simple injury can = death makes it all the more so, too. I love TR soloing in the mountains but I also get a weird feeling like I need to be looking over my shoulder or something. Kind of spooky IMO.


jt512


Jan 3, 2011, 9:00 AM
Post #29 of 207 (7960 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Apr 11, 2001
Posts: 21890

Re: [kobaz] NEAR MISS REPORT: The stupid mistakes edition [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (8 ratings)  
Can't Post

kobaz wrote:
socalclimber wrote:
I've seen that gri gri screw a number of times over the years. I am very paranoid and triple check them every time. Great devices, but people seem to do this a lot.

Every single time I attach a grigri, or someone else attaches a grigri whose belaying me, I will pull on the climbing side to make sure it locks.

That's pretty much maximizing the disrespect for your belayer.

Jay


boymeetsrock


Jan 3, 2011, 9:08 AM
Post #30 of 207 (7952 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Feb 11, 2005
Posts: 1709

Re: [sungam] NEAR MISS REPORT: The stupid mistakes edition [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

sungam wrote:
You're the man, I'm the hand! Pre climb chant every time.

I like that one! Will have to use that in the future.

The gri-gri mistakes are all too easy, as evidenced by all the gri-gri accident threads. I personally do not care for them. It's all the gym allows for though, and its another arrow in the quiver. It is always important to be extra vigilant with unfamiliar equipment. ...It's always important to be extra vigilant.


sp115


Jan 3, 2011, 9:12 AM
Post #31 of 207 (7945 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Apr 17, 2007
Posts: 515

Re: [jt512] NEAR MISS REPORT: The stupid mistakes edition [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

jt512 wrote:
kobaz wrote:
socalclimber wrote:
I've seen that gri gri screw a number of times over the years. I am very paranoid and triple check them every time. Great devices, but people seem to do this a lot.

Every single time I attach a grigri, or someone else attaches a grigri whose belaying me, I will pull on the climbing side to make sure it locks.

That's pretty much maximizing the disrespect for your belayer.

Jay

As a belayer I consider it my responsibility to show my partner that it was threaded properly by giving the rope a tug and seeing it lock. If I didn't do that, I would expect him/her to pull the rope to make the point that I didn't do it.


kobaz


Jan 3, 2011, 9:14 AM
Post #32 of 207 (7942 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Sep 19, 2004
Posts: 717

Re: [jt512] NEAR MISS REPORT: The stupid mistakes edition [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (4 ratings)  
Can't Post

jt512 wrote:
kobaz wrote:
socalclimber wrote:
I've seen that gri gri screw a number of times over the years. I am very paranoid and triple check them every time. Great devices, but people seem to do this a lot.

Every single time I attach a grigri, or someone else attaches a grigri whose belaying me, I will pull on the climbing side to make sure it locks.

That's pretty much maximizing the disrespect for your belayer.

Jay


Mistakes happen.

Does double checking that your partner has their harness double backed also count as maximizing disrespect?

What about asking if you are on belay? What about calling down "got me?". What about the dozens of other checks and double checks that are done all the time to climber and belayer when climbing?

Would you forgo a 1 second check to maximize your own safety?


notapplicable


Jan 3, 2011, 9:23 AM
Post #33 of 207 (7927 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Aug 31, 2006
Posts: 17766

Re: [oldsalt] NEAR MISS REPORT: The stupid mistakes edition [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (2 ratings)  
Can't Post

oldsalt wrote:
Gutsy post! If your belayer isn't equally abashed, you need to find another. My guess is that it won't happen again for either of you.

Missed this earlier, some how.

Yeah, he was really embarrassed and pissed off about missing it. He seemed to take it harder than I did actually.

My personal philosophy is that I am allowed to endanger myself, that is my privilege (not sure if that is the right word to convey what I want to express). I am not allowed to endanger other people and, to my knowledge, have never done so in any way that exceeds the generally accepted risks associated with climbing.

I think that is why I was able to take it in stride. Where as if I had been the belayer who missed my climbers botched tie-in, I would be much more disturbed by my role in the whole affair.


i_h8_choss


Jan 3, 2011, 9:40 AM
Post #34 of 207 (7915 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Sep 2, 2007
Posts: 694

Re: [notapplicable] NEAR MISS REPORT: The stupid mistakes edition [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

notapplicable wrote:
I fucked up a few weeks back and although it didn’t end badly, it certainly could have.

I was at the gym climbing


ouch. bummer dude. you fucked up. Sly

seriously, glad everything turned out o.k. I developed a habit that kinda helps with this sorta thing. After tying my knot, I'll yank upwards on the rope to simulate what it would look like if I fell. It's always comforting to see my knot get tightened up a bit before I leave the ground.


Gmburns2000


Jan 3, 2011, 10:01 AM
Post #35 of 207 (7900 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Mar 6, 2007
Posts: 15113

Re: [notapplicable] NEAR MISS REPORT: The stupid mistakes edition [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

I've had two that stick out:

1) rapping off Dark Shadows in RR. Got to the ledge before the final rap, took myself off rappel, leaned back...fell into my partner's arms who noticed i hadn't locked in yet. have never made that mistake again.

2) was rapping with two different length ropes (didn't actually know this at the time as we both thought the ropes were the same length) and was paying more attention to the scary rock above me than I was the ends below me. the short rope whipped right through the ATC with about 50 feet to go and I was suddenly moving much faster than before. It took me a couple of seconds to realize that I wasn't falling, however, and then it dawned on me that I had been saved by the knot at the top.

have had a couple instances where I've fed the grigri wrong, but I always check it before my climber climbs, so I've never had a situation where the climber ever started climbing.


billl7


Jan 3, 2011, 10:37 AM
Post #36 of 207 (7876 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Oct 13, 2005
Posts: 1888

Re: [Gmburns2000] NEAR MISS REPORT: The stupid mistakes edition [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Gmburns2000 wrote:
was rapping with two different length ropes (didn't actually know this at the time as we both thought the ropes were the same length) and was paying more attention to the scary rock above me than I was the ends below me. the short rope whipped right through the ATC with about 50 feet to go and I was suddenly moving much faster than before. It took me a couple of seconds to realize that I wasn't falling, however, and then it dawned on me that I had been saved by the knot at the top.

Well worded. Makes me wobbly-legged just imagining the rapid-fire sequence of sensations. I've also heard of close calls like this when the person on rappel was focused on looking for the next anchor location.

I'm not a big fan of knotting the rope ends - rarely do (much less than 1% of the time). However, weekend before last we did because we were too lazy to find the middle of an unmarked rope.

Bill L


majid_sabet


Jan 3, 2011, 10:46 AM
Post #37 of 207 (7866 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Dec 12, 2002
Posts: 8347

Re: [notapplicable] NEAR MISS REPORT: The stupid mistakes edition [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (2 ratings)  
Can't Post

notapplicable wrote:
I fucked up a few weeks back and although it didn’t end badly, it certainly could have.

I was at the gym climbing with two of my regular partners and had been leading most of the day. The route I was on was at my onsight limit but nothing special beyond that. What was exceptional was what I saw as I cruxed above the last bolt and glanced down to check the rope run and fall line. I noticed an extra figure-8 tied in the rope below my harness and I kinda did a double take. When I looked closer, I realized that it wasn’t an extra figure-8, it was the ONLY figure-8 and the tale end of the rope just ran through my tie-in points and draped down the front. WTF!!

Now, me being the idiot that I am, my first thought was (not joking here) “can I tie that one handed and preserve the onsight?”. Of course my second thought was “don’t be a jackass, down climb”, so I did. I got to the bolt below me and clipped in and tied the knot and shakily finished the route. Needless to say, there were some raised eyebrows waiting for me back on the ground.

I honestly can't remember what distracted me from finishing my knot but I have my suspicions. I remember wondering where I had put my shoes and I remember spotting them behind where John was sitting and I grabbed them right then and put them on, so I’m pretty sure that’s when it happened. And as usual, it was more than one event or mistake that lined up just right to allow for this kind of thing to happen. While we don’t have a perfect batting average, the group I was with that day are pretty consistent about double checking each other and overtly do so 80% of the time with another 15% done with eye contact but no verbal communication. Not sure if we were too busy talking shit or just plain forgot but this climb fell within the remaining 5%.

Certainly I'm not the most safety conscious climber in the world and I freely admit that but I try to keep and eye on the simple stupid stuff, especially after earning my avatar. Shit slips thru the cracks though and it's that shit that will kill you. I just got lucky is all. So no big lessons here, just a reminder to doublecheck yourself, and each other.

One final note. I've personally developed the habit of quickly glancing down at my harness and fall line before entering a crux or if I think I might fall and it's helped to avoid awkward or dangerous falls in the past, this time it probably kept me from getting seriously injured or killed. For those who aren't in the habit, it might be something to think about.

Mods, if you think this belongs in general, feel free to move it.

There is no such thing as "AUTO-PILOT" switch in climbing.

Everything must be manually check and recheck by pilot and co-pilot before takeoff


Gmburns2000


Jan 3, 2011, 11:06 AM
Post #38 of 207 (7851 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Mar 6, 2007
Posts: 15113

Re: [billl7] NEAR MISS REPORT: The stupid mistakes edition [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

billl7 wrote:
Gmburns2000 wrote:
was rapping with two different length ropes (didn't actually know this at the time as we both thought the ropes were the same length) and was paying more attention to the scary rock above me than I was the ends below me. the short rope whipped right through the ATC with about 50 feet to go and I was suddenly moving much faster than before. It took me a couple of seconds to realize that I wasn't falling, however, and then it dawned on me that I had been saved by the knot at the top.

Well worded. Makes me wobbly-legged just imagining the rapid-fire sequence of sensations. I've also heard of close calls like this when the person on rappel was focused on looking for the next anchor location.

I'm not a big fan of knotting the rope ends - rarely do (much less than 1% of the time). However, weekend before last we did because we were too lazy to find the middle of an unmarked rope.

Bill L

Thanks.

It took me several minutes to catch my breath when I got to the bottom, but I oddly had the presence of mind to hold the rope so that my partner couldn't get into the system at the top. Once I had enough time to gather my thoughts and communicate them, he rapped down to the intermediate anchor that we were trying to avoid, and did it in two raps.

I remember when I realized I had been saved by the knot, too. I didn't slow the rap down because I wasn't 100% sure that the knot wouldn't pull through, so I wanted to get down as quickly as I could.

I'm a big proponent of tying knots, but I don't always (wind in RR is an example of when I don't do it). We didnt this time because we saw the longer rope clearly on the ground. We didn't see the shorter rope on the ground for two reasons: 1) obviously because it wasn't, but we didn't know this because; 2) it had fallen over a bulge and we couldn't see the ground over that bulge. The longer rope had fallen to the side of the bulge where we could see straight down.


jt512


Jan 3, 2011, 12:42 PM
Post #39 of 207 (7810 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Apr 11, 2001
Posts: 21890

Re: [kobaz] NEAR MISS REPORT: The stupid mistakes edition [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (6 ratings)  
Can't Post

kobaz wrote:
jt512 wrote:
kobaz wrote:
socalclimber wrote:
I've seen that gri gri screw a number of times over the years. I am very paranoid and triple check them every time. Great devices, but people seem to do this a lot.

Every single time I attach a grigri, or someone else attaches a grigri whose belaying me, I will pull on the climbing side to make sure it locks.

That's pretty much maximizing the disrespect for your belayer.

Jay


Mistakes happen.

Does double checking that your partner has their harness double backed also count as maximizing disrespect?

What about asking if you are on belay? What about calling down "got me?". What about the dozens of other checks and double checks that are done all the time to climber and belayer when climbing?

Would you forgo a 1 second check to maximize your own safety?

I would—and do—ask my belayer to yank on the rope to see if it catches in the grigri. I don't tug on him. That's just rude.

Jay


(This post was edited by jt512 on Jan 3, 2011, 12:42 PM)


james481


Jan 3, 2011, 1:49 PM
Post #40 of 207 (7768 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Aug 10, 2007
Posts: 201

Re: [jt512] NEAR MISS REPORT: The stupid mistakes edition [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (6 ratings)  
Can't Post

jt512 wrote:
kobaz wrote:
jt512 wrote:
kobaz wrote:
socalclimber wrote:
I've seen that gri gri screw a number of times over the years. I am very paranoid and triple check them every time. Great devices, but people seem to do this a lot.

Every single time I attach a grigri, or someone else attaches a grigri whose belaying me, I will pull on the climbing side to make sure it locks.

That's pretty much maximizing the disrespect for your belayer.

Jay


Mistakes happen.

Does double checking that your partner has their harness double backed also count as maximizing disrespect?

What about asking if you are on belay? What about calling down "got me?". What about the dozens of other checks and double checks that are done all the time to climber and belayer when climbing?

Would you forgo a 1 second check to maximize your own safety?

I would—and do—ask my belayer to yank on the rope to see if it catches in the grigri. I don't tug on him. That's just rude.

Jay

I kindly ask the people that I climb with to leave the pedantic rules of etiquette for afternoon tea and crumpets on the veranda. When life and death are on the line (as they are for every climb), I don't consider myself on belay until I have physically checked the belayer's rigging by grabbing the belay biner to ensure that it's locked and giving the rope a yank to ensure that the belay device is threaded correctly, and having the belayer both visually and physically yanking to confirm that my knot is correctly tied and holding weight. I do this every time I tie in, gym, crag, or mountains, without exception. I've probably annoyed a couple of people who think that I'm being overly cautious, but much more importantly, I've never gotten half way up a pitch only to discover my knot isn't tied or my belayer threaded the device wrong.


Partner j_ung


Jan 3, 2011, 2:13 PM
Post #41 of 207 (7759 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Nov 21, 2003
Posts: 18687

Re: [jt512] NEAR MISS REPORT: The stupid mistakes edition [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

jt512 wrote:
kobaz wrote:
jt512 wrote:
kobaz wrote:
socalclimber wrote:
I've seen that gri gri screw a number of times over the years. I am very paranoid and triple check them every time. Great devices, but people seem to do this a lot.

Every single time I attach a grigri, or someone else attaches a grigri whose belaying me, I will pull on the climbing side to make sure it locks.

That's pretty much maximizing the disrespect for your belayer.

Jay


Mistakes happen.

Does double checking that your partner has their harness double backed also count as maximizing disrespect?

What about asking if you are on belay? What about calling down "got me?". What about the dozens of other checks and double checks that are done all the time to climber and belayer when climbing?

Would you forgo a 1 second check to maximize your own safety?

I would—and do—ask my belayer to yank on the rope to see if it catches in the grigri. I don't tug on him. That's just rude.

Jay

I like the yank check, too, but like Jay, I'm satisfied if I see the belayer do it. BUT, I also have a few climbing partners I can yank around by the belay device and not endanger the relationship.


fresh


Jan 3, 2011, 2:22 PM
Post #42 of 207 (7751 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Aug 6, 2007
Posts: 1199

Re: [notapplicable] NEAR MISS REPORT: The stupid mistakes edition [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

NA,
nice post, glad it worked out. actually I was similarly inspired to post a question because of the thread you mentioned:
http://www.rockclimbing.com/...d;page=unread#unread

I think it's really important to air out mistakes and near misses. it's too much of a burden to keep quiet about.


blueeyedclimber


Jan 3, 2011, 3:11 PM
Post #43 of 207 (7723 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Nov 19, 2002
Posts: 4602

Re: [j_ung] NEAR MISS REPORT: The stupid mistakes edition [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

j_ung wrote:
jt512 wrote:
kobaz wrote:
jt512 wrote:
kobaz wrote:
socalclimber wrote:
I've seen that gri gri screw a number of times over the years. I am very paranoid and triple check them every time. Great devices, but people seem to do this a lot.

Every single time I attach a grigri, or someone else attaches a grigri whose belaying me, I will pull on the climbing side to make sure it locks.

That's pretty much maximizing the disrespect for your belayer.

Jay


Mistakes happen.

Does double checking that your partner has their harness double backed also count as maximizing disrespect?

What about asking if you are on belay? What about calling down "got me?". What about the dozens of other checks and double checks that are done all the time to climber and belayer when climbing?

Would you forgo a 1 second check to maximize your own safety?

I would—and do—ask my belayer to yank on the rope to see if it catches in the grigri. I don't tug on him. That's just rude.

Jay

I like the yank check, too, but like Jay, I'm satisfied if I see the belayer do it. BUT, I also have a few climbing partners I can yank around by the belay device and not endanger the relationship.

I yank mine in for a pre-climb kissWink

Josh


blueeyedclimber


Jan 3, 2011, 3:30 PM
Post #44 of 207 (7704 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Nov 19, 2002
Posts: 4602

Re: [majid_sabet] NEAR MISS REPORT: The stupid mistakes edition [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (1 rating)  
Can't Post

majid_sabet wrote:

There is no such thing as "AUTO-PILOT" switch in climbing.

Everything must be manually check and recheck by pilot and co-pilot before takeoff

Instead of passing judgment, how about offering your own stories. There is no climber alive that hasn't done something stupid (except maybe Jay).

Here's two that come to mind:
1) First time in Red Rocks, first route. My partner had been there before so gave me the first lead. We were in Black Velvet Canyon and the higher profile climbs were occupied, so we decided on Sour Mash. In all my excitement, I tied in chalked up and headed up on lead.......without the rack. I didn't notice until reaching for the first piece. I down climbed back to the base, grabbed the rack, and headed back up, a little red-faced. The climbing was pretty easy to start so I wasn't in any danger, just a little embarrassed.

2) Rappelling off a route. I "ALWAYS" attach my rappel device and THEN attach my backup. For some reason, one time, I put my backup on first. I guess in my mind I was all set to go, since I had just put my backup on. It was hot, I was tired, I wasn't thinking. I went to lean back on it when Tiff stopped me.

NO ONE is above mistakes. You can say "It won't happen to me" until you're blue in the face, but guess what....being human is well, part of being a human.

Josh


bearbreeder


Jan 3, 2011, 3:32 PM
Post #45 of 207 (7700 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Feb 1, 2009
Posts: 1960

Re: [notapplicable] NEAR MISS REPORT: The stupid mistakes edition [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (1 rating)  
Can't Post

once i was putting someone on belay ... had a PAS girth hitched that was the same colour as my belay loop ... i clipped the ATC to the PAS girth hitch instead of the belay loop ... caught it before the first 10 feet fortunately

got a daisy that was bright neon orange the next day (i'm sure some people will start ranting about OMG yr gonna die daisies now Tongue)

don't girth hitch anything of the same colour as yr belay loop to yr harness ...

of and i always check my partner's tie in knot ... especially if they are hawt gurls and wearing those tight yoga pants ... in that case it calls for a physical hands on inspection Wink


majid_sabet


Jan 3, 2011, 3:58 PM
Post #47 of 207 (7678 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Dec 12, 2002
Posts: 8347

Re: [blueeyedclimber] NEAR MISS REPORT: The stupid mistakes edition [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (3 ratings)  
Can't Post

blueeyedclimber wrote:
majid_sabet wrote:

There is no such thing as "AUTO-PILOT" switch in climbing.

Everything must be manually check and recheck by pilot and co-pilot before takeoff

Instead of passing judgment, how about offering your own stories. There is no climber alive that hasn't done something stupid (except maybe Jay).

Here's two that come to mind:
1) First time in Red Rocks, first route. My partner had been there before so gave me the first lead. We were in Black Velvet Canyon and the higher profile climbs were occupied, so we decided on Sour Mash. In all my excitement, I tied in chalked up and headed up on lead.......without the rack. I didn't notice until reaching for the first piece. I down climbed back to the base, grabbed the rack, and headed back up, a little red-faced. The climbing was pretty easy to start so I wasn't in any danger, just a little embarrassed.

2) Rappelling off a route. I "ALWAYS" attach my rappel device and THEN attach my backup. For some reason, one time, I put my backup on first. I guess in my mind I was all set to go, since I had just put my backup on. It was hot, I was tired, I wasn't thinking. I went to lean back on it when Tiff stopped me.

NO ONE is above mistakes. You can say "It won't happen to me" until you're blue in the face, but guess what....being human is well, part of being a human.

Josh

I done stupid thing and I am no different than anyone else however, I am probably more aware of fuc*ups than most climbers (thanks to reading thousands of accident reports and documenting what went wrong) but I also learned that we need to have pre-flight check list like how pilots do it every time both before they takeoff or land. I am an ex airplane mechanic and we check, recheck and triple check everything we put together and practicing of checking twice and cutting once has saved me in so many situations. As an instructor who deals with climbers and rescuers, I personally can not effort any fuc*ups. An error, injuries or death when my name or organization's reputation is involved means death . I always say this; everything is against us in climbing and any error means trouble if not death so best thing we have to defend ourselves against close calls is the safety check list and we have to do religiously.

we can talk BS all day long here and post and joke about our fuc*ups but out there, climbing is a serious business and we need to treat our safety like how we did in the beginning.

Remember those days........fig 8 check ?, belay check ? on belay ? belay on, climbing ? climb on .....


(This post was edited by majid_sabet on Jan 3, 2011, 3:59 PM)


Gmburns2000


Jan 3, 2011, 4:19 PM
Post #48 of 207 (7664 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Mar 6, 2007
Posts: 15113

Re: [jt512] NEAR MISS REPORT: The stupid mistakes edition [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (6 ratings)  
Can't Post

jt512 wrote:


Incidentally, in 25 years of climbing, I have never even once had a partner grab the rope and jerk it, and hence, jerk me. On the other hand, every time I belay with a grigri, I give the rope a jerk myself, preferably while my partner is watching.

Jay

you know, for prosperity


jakedatc


Jan 3, 2011, 4:20 PM
Post #49 of 207 (7661 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Mar 12, 2003
Posts: 11054

Re: [majid_sabet] NEAR MISS REPORT: The stupid mistakes edition [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (1 rating)  
Can't Post

majid_sabet wrote:
blueeyedclimber wrote:
majid_sabet wrote:

There is no such thing as "AUTO-PILOT" switch in climbing.

Everything must be manually check and recheck by pilot and co-pilot before takeoff

Instead of passing judgment, how about offering your own stories. There is no climber alive that hasn't done something stupid (except maybe Jay).

Here's two that come to mind:
1) First time in Red Rocks, first route. My partner had been there before so gave me the first lead. We were in Black Velvet Canyon and the higher profile climbs were occupied, so we decided on Sour Mash. In all my excitement, I tied in chalked up and headed up on lead.......without the rack. I didn't notice until reaching for the first piece. I down climbed back to the base, grabbed the rack, and headed back up, a little red-faced. The climbing was pretty easy to start so I wasn't in any danger, just a little embarrassed.

2) Rappelling off a route. I "ALWAYS" attach my rappel device and THEN attach my backup. For some reason, one time, I put my backup on first. I guess in my mind I was all set to go, since I had just put my backup on. It was hot, I was tired, I wasn't thinking. I went to lean back on it when Tiff stopped me.

NO ONE is above mistakes. You can say "It won't happen to me" until you're blue in the face, but guess what....being human is well, part of being a human.

Josh

I done stupid thing and I am no different than anyone else however, I am probably more aware of fuc*ups than most climbers (thanks to reading thousands of accident reports and documenting what went wrong) but I also learned that we need to have pre-flight check list like how pilots do it every time both before they takeoff or land. I am an ex airplane mechanic and we check, recheck and triple check everything we put together and practicing of checking twice and cutting once has saved me in so many situations. As an instructor who deals with climbers and rescuers, I personally can not effort any fuc*ups. An error, injuries or death when my name or organization's reputation is involved means death . I always say this; everything is against us in climbing and any error means trouble if not death so best thing we have to defend ourselves against close calls is the safety check list and we have to do religiously.

we can talk BS all day long here and post and joke about our fuc*ups but out there, climbing is a serious business and we need to treat our safety like how we did in the beginning.

Remember those days........fig 8 check ?, belay check ? on belay ? belay on, climbing ? climb on .....

This thread was purposely started to AVOID your holier than thou comments and judgments. If you don't like the conversation then don't post. I still have not seen proof that you climb.


mine: Have only threaded one of the tie ins on a few different occasions. This has led me to thread from the top down so that at least my waist belt will be the one tie in i will hit all the time and i think is less likely to invert you. this summer i caught myself at the first bolt, clipped in direct and fixed it.

I do the Man/Hand check and a quick yank with my Cinch, other partners do it with their Gri gri's. If they yank on the rope themselves i could really care less. if my skin was that thin i'd have stopped climbing with them a long time ago. Would probably be taunted and laughed at until they left on their own if someone took themselves that seriously.


Gmburns2000


Jan 3, 2011, 4:21 PM
Post #50 of 207 (7657 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Mar 6, 2007
Posts: 15113

Re: [Gmburns2000] NEAR MISS REPORT: The stupid mistakes edition [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Gmburns2000 wrote:
jt512 wrote:


Incidentally, in 25 years of climbing, I have never even once had a partner grab the rope and jerk it, and hence, jerk me. On the other hand, every time I belay with a grigri, I give the rope a jerk myself, preferably while my partner is watching.

Jay

you know, for prosperity posterity

fucking keyboard

First page Previous page 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 Next page Last page  View All

Forums : Climbing Information : Accident and Incident Analysis

 


Search for (options)

Log In:

Username:
Password: Remember me:

Go Register
Go Lost Password?
$13.46 (10% off)
$14.58 (10% off)
$16.16 (10% off)
$71.96 (10% off)



Follow us on Twiter Become a Fan on Facebook