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boymeetsrock
Nov 28, 2010, 11:30 PM
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Nice TR and video Chad. Thanks for sharing. And I agree that the boom shots were very cool.
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boymeetsrock
Nov 28, 2010, 11:35 PM
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Gail: Holly crankin' !! Keep it up.
Jake: good job getting out and having fun. thanks for the share.
Bill: you too.
Glad to see people are out having fun.
I have been traveling and otherwise not climbing. :-( Was supposed to go out today, but my partner bailed so the wife and I scored some booty for the kido's (still on the way). Hoping to get out at least once more this year, but the opportunities are obviously limited.
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Gmburns2000
Nov 29, 2010, 12:44 AM
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MohamedElHinati wrote: Is there anybody who has some experience to report about the "Eiger Nordwand" in the Alpes...? Regards to all freeclimbers, Mohamed El Hinati
probably not in this forum, but I bet someone on this site has something about the Eiger somewhere.
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gblauer
Moderator
Jan 1, 2011, 10:45 PM
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Happy New Year Weekend Warriors!
My New Year started off uber great at the Uberfall. It was probably 50 degrees up here today so we decided to go climbing. Patrick, Mark, Lance, Naomi, Mitch and I all hung out at the Uberfall for a few hours. It stayed nice and toasty until about 3PM then the sun went behind some clouds and sunk low in the sky. It was so warm that the 20" of snow that we had after Xmas was melting every where. Patrick brought a giant tarp which protected our gear and our shoes at the start of each climb.
We did Laural, Clover, Junior, Rhodie and Apoplexy. Initially the rock felt slick, but, I guess I warmed up quickly because everything felt very easy today.
Regrettably, Mitch can't climb; he is having surgery in 3 weeks to re-build his wrist. He won't be climbing for at least 6 months.
We vowed to make it out on any day over 45 this winter.
What a great way to start the new year.
(This post was edited by gblauer on Jan 1, 2011, 10:48 PM)
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Gmburns2000
Jan 1, 2011, 10:59 PM
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Bummer about Mitch's wrist, but at least he's doing it now so he'll be able to salvage next summer.
Congrats on getting out in such nice weather for this time of year. I'm slightly envious.
I am going climbing here in Chile for the first time tomorrow (Sunday). TR will follow this week.
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Gmburns2000
Jan 3, 2011, 9:01 PM
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OK, as promised, the Chile post is up here: Viva Chile!
'Twas a good day.
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gblauer
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Jan 3, 2011, 9:39 PM
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Loved your post. Sounds like you did a really nice lead. Did it feel like a gunks 9? Do you think Red will climb with you every weekend?
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Gmburns2000
Jan 3, 2011, 9:49 PM
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gblauer wrote: Loved your post. Sounds like you did a really nice lead. Did it feel like a gunks 9? Do you think Red will climb with you every weekend?
Thanks Gail! I actually think it was one of my better posts in a while, maybe that's a reflection of how fun and relaxed the day was.
Definitely not a 'Gunks 9, more like a sustained 'Gunks 6, so probably a 7 in the end. He thought it was a bit soft, too, as the second, so its possible he didn't remember the grade. We talked about that, and he's going to get me info when he can.
Yeah, I think I'll be climbing with him a lot in the coming months. He is eager to get out a lot and also eager to introduce me to his other partners. They have a crag they've just discovered down south, too, with miles of cliff line and at the a couple of 1000m meter cliffs...all of it unclimbed. If this works out, then I've hit the jackpot down here.
One of the things that make us compatible is that info down here is very, very difficult to come by. There really are no guides and Chilean climbers, in general, are rather disorganized. He has tried to organize people with varying degrees of success, but he seems happy that I'm willing to do a fair amount of publicizing and organizing info. He agreed to help supply me with the info needed, too.
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gblauer
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Jan 3, 2011, 9:53 PM
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When are you coming home? More specifically, when are you coming to the gunks?
I agree with you, your post was very fun to read and I really liked your style. Glad you are having fun. I am jealous.
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Gmburns2000
Jan 3, 2011, 10:03 PM
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gblauer wrote: When are you coming home? More specifically, when are you coming to the gunks? I agree with you, your post was very fun to read and I really liked your style. Glad you are having fun. I am jealous.
uh, well, my ticket to return is May 15, but that is a flexible date. I will be back in the 'Gunks as soon as I can when I get home. Don't worry, I'll give you plenty of notice...we STILL haven't climbed together!!
Hey, if you and mitch want some time in S.A., give me a shout!
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darkgift06
Feb 6, 2011, 10:40 PM
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3 of us went out climbing at Skaha yesterday snow and all.. my buddy Ryan started on a 5.9 that was super wet and icy, we were both surprised that he made it up. I top roped it and struggled the whole way putting my hands into pools of water full of ice and snow I fell twice I think.
I then lead a 5.7 with a grunt offwidth start. I got a small power cam in as I left the ground. I then got a #3 camalot where the crack necked down, it was a struggle my feet were stemming on wet rock and I fell. I then got down re racked the borrowed gear which helped my head space. I then started back up, I found a big jug deep in the wet crack that got me past where I had fallen, I pulled on a cam and a nut at another wet point, & grunted lots of times placing lots of gear and made it to the top wet and happy.
Early season climbing!!!!
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Gmburns2000
Feb 7, 2011, 12:26 AM
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darkgift06 wrote: 3 of us went out climbing at Skaha yesterday snow and all.. my buddy Ryan started on a 5.9 that was super wet and icy, we were both surprised that he made it up. I top roped it and struggled the whole way putting my hands into pools of water full of ice and snow I fell twice I think. I then lead a 5.7 with a grunt offwidth start. I got a small power cam in as I left the ground. I then got a #3 camalot where the crack necked down, it was a struggle my feet were stemming on wet rock and I fell. I then got down re racked the borrowed gear which helped my head space. I then started back up, I found a big jug deep in the wet crack that got me past where I had fallen, I pulled on a cam and a nut at another wet point, & grunted lots of times placing lots of gear and made it to the top wet and happy. Early season climbing!!!!
there is nothing wrong with stories about rock in Feb.
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Gmburns2000
Feb 7, 2011, 3:27 AM
Post #488 of 1159
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Haven't been posting much on the WW thread even though I've been getting out. Life's been busier than expected down here, and that's a good thing in a lot of ways.
Today I took Godfather2 out finally (well, he and I met up with another infamous RC.knobber, but that was only for a day of clipping bolts). We had been talking about getting out to do this specific trad route in San Gabriel for some time, and for whatever reason things just got delayed (I bailed because of something I don't remember, then he bailed, then plans got changed to climb with the aforementioned infamous person). Even today we were supposed to change plans again, but as luck had it, they didn't in the end and we took off for Puente San Gabriel to tackle the four-pitch route Escalon.
Puente San Gabriel is about two hours from Santiago Centro (first by the Metro and then by bus or collectivo). We got an early start, but what was odd was that as we were walking through the Las Mercedes metro station I saw another climber with his rope hanging out of his pack.
"Good," I thought, "he's in line for a snack and we're going upstairs. If we're going to the same place then we're ahead of them."
I wasn't worried, though, because no one ever climbs there. In fact, two of my main partners, each of whom have been climbing in Chile for years, both could count the Chilean trad climbers in the Santiago area on one hand, and Santiago represents about a third of the entire population of Chile.
I was also confident because we caught a bus just as we exited the metro station.
"There's no way they catch us now," I thought.
In fact, when GF2 asked me later if collectivos were quicker (they're cars, not busses), I told him that wasn't necessarily the case.
But wouldn't you know, guess who was about 100 yards ahead of us on the path? Lesson learned, collectivos are faster.
That was OK. GF2 and I could start on La Raya, which is a one-pitch route at about 110 feet. It was a nice route to start on while the other guys slowly made their way up our intended route. They were slow, so we chilled at the top for a bit and watched them make their own progress. When they were starting the third pitch, we headed up Escalon.
I linked the first two pitches together (about 160 feet) and felt good. I placed probably 10 pieces because things felt smooth. GF2 came up, we switched gear and off I went.
The last time I had done the route, my partner led P3 and went right. I wanted to mix it up a bit and decided to go left. Instead of finding myself in the nice crack to the right, I was now immersed in the offwidth on the left. No big deal, because this was my kind of offwidth (read: FREAKING EASY). I got to the top of the third pitch and guess who I found? Yup, our slow amigos who had beaten us in the collectivo.
Nice dudes they are, so no problems there. They're just now getting into rock after years of mountaineering. We chatted for a while and off they went.
Finally they cleared the last pitch and GF2 and I summitted. We then "glissaded" down the dirt "walk-off."
Next up was a chill down by the river. Then empenandas down on the road. For me, two good-sized empenandas and a beer cost 2000 pesos (~$4).
Our luck was good once again, because as soon as we finished eating, a bus was heading the other way. We jumped on, got two seats on what turned out to be a normal, crowded ride back into Santiago. There was traffic, so our driver took some side roads at about 80mph (I thought I was going to die a few dozen times). He got us to the metro, however, and things were good.
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godfather2
Feb 7, 2011, 3:45 AM
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thanks for taking me out, showing me around, and taking care of the sharp end as well! i felt super safe and had my most enjoyable climbing day to date!
i shoulda ate another empanada 
hopefully we'll be able to get out once more before i leave
- safe n send
(This post was edited by godfather2 on Feb 7, 2011, 3:47 AM)
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Gmburns2000
Feb 7, 2011, 12:42 PM
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godfather2 wrote: thanks for taking me out, showing me around, and taking care of the sharp end as well! i felt super safe and had my most enjoyable climbing day to date! i shoulda ate another empanada hopefully we'll be able to get out once more before i leave - safe n send
yup, the second one was just as good as the first.
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darkgift06
Feb 23, 2011, 4:43 PM
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Still feb & still sending. this time a little closer to the ground.. were finding that when climbing below freezing its best to climb short routes or boulder... so it was sunny this weekend & we went out to explore some boulders in an area known as "The Slayers"
http://www.vimeo.com/20244781
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Gmburns2000
Feb 23, 2011, 8:58 PM
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darkgift06 wrote: Still feb & still sending. this time a little closer to the ground.. were finding that when climbing below freezing its best to climb short routes or boulder... so it was sunny this weekend & we went out to explore some boulders in an area known as "The Slayers" http://www.vimeo.com/20244781
just saw this today. couldnt hear the sound because i am at a hostel and the computers here dont have speakers.
climbing with snow is awesome, but crazy, too. I am inspired, but not to follow. instead, to go climbing where it is warm instead.
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Gmburns2000
Feb 23, 2011, 8:59 PM
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Gmburns2000 wrote: darkgift06 wrote: Still feb & still sending. this time a little closer to the ground.. were finding that when climbing below freezing its best to climb short routes or boulder... so it was sunny this weekend & we went out to explore some boulders in an area known as "The Slayers" http://www.vimeo.com/20244781just saw this today. couldnt hear the sound because i am at a hostel and the computers here dont have speakers. climbing with snow is awesome, but crazy, too. I am inspired, but not to follow. instead, to go climbing where it is warm instead.
right about the three-minute mark was pretty cool footage.
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gblauer
Moderator
Feb 24, 2011, 3:04 AM
Post #494 of 1159
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Great photos, sounds like you are having lots of fun. It's still cold at the Gunks, haven't been climbing outside since New Year's Day. Looks like rain/snow this weekend, maybe some ice climbing on Saturday. Take Care Gmburns!
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gblauer
Moderator
Feb 27, 2011, 12:56 AM
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Ice Climbing...Why did I wait so long to try it?
Oh my, I went ice climbing for the first time today. I totally and completely loved it. I went to the Catskills and climbed at an area off of route 214. I climbed two easy climbs and then finished up on a "4" which I got clean (top rope). I had so much fun. I guess I am buying ice gear tomorrow!
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potreroed
Feb 27, 2011, 4:33 AM
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Oh, no!! Another good climber turns sicko!!
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Gmburns2000
Feb 27, 2011, 6:42 PM
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gblauer wrote: Ice Climbing...Why did I wait so long to try it? Oh my, I went ice climbing for the first time today. I totally and completely loved it. I went to the Catskills and climbed at an area off of route 214. I climbed two easy climbs and then finished up on a "4" which I got clean (top rope). I had so much fun. I guess I am buying ice gear tomorrow!
as much as it pains me to read this, I am actually hopeful that you'll find ice climbing to be more comfortable on your foot. Was that the experience you had? If so, then I hope this is a discovery that leads to great adventures for you.
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gblauer
Moderator
Feb 27, 2011, 11:21 PM
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Greg...thanks for asking. My boots were too big so my toes jammed into the end of the boot every time I kicked. That kind of hurt, but, it did not bother my arthritis at all. THe arthritis really bothers me when I have to stand on my big toes. In ice climbing you are basically on a flat foot as you kick in. It was awesome. I can't beleive I waited so long to try this awesome sport. I loved it.
When are you coming back?
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Gmburns2000
Feb 27, 2011, 11:31 PM
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gblauer wrote: Greg...thanks for asking. My boots were too big so my toes jammed into the end of the boot every time I kicked. That kind of hurt, but, it did not bother my arthritis at all. THe arthritis really bothers me when I have to stand on my big toes. In ice climbing you are basically on a flat foot as you kick in. It was awesome. I can't beleive I waited so long to try this awesome sport. I loved it. When are you coming back?
yeah, well, as soon as I read that I kind of figured it would be easier on your foot (having the wrong size boot the first time aside), so that is good.
It looks as if I'll return in late May. I think John is planning to be in the 'Gunks again from mid to late june, so I'll definitely be down then. After that, probably Aug. I think I'm heading to Brasil next this winter, so I will probably only be home this summer.
However, we need to climb. We still haven't managed it, so that is kind of a goal of mine this summer!
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blueeyedclimber
Feb 28, 2011, 3:27 PM
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gblauer wrote: Ice Climbing...Why did I wait so long to try it? Oh my, I went ice climbing for the first time today. I totally and completely loved it. I went to the Catskills and climbed at an area off of route 214. I climbed two easy climbs and then finished up on a "4" which I got clean (top rope). I had so much fun. I guess I am buying ice gear tomorrow!
Nice. I finally got into this year too. I got out about 6 times this winter and invested in my first pair of boots. It'll never replace rock but it's nice to get outside rather than just go to the gym during the winter.
As for rock, we are going to RR in a couple weeks. Trip report to come.
Josh
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