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rsmillbern
Jan 4, 2011, 11:48 AM
Post #1 of 3
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Registered: Sep 29, 2005
Posts: 319
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I am wanting to do one or both of these this year. Anyone have any beta on the climbs, camping, best time of the year, ect...?
thanks
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yves
Jan 24, 2011, 9:10 PM
Post #2 of 3
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Registered: Nov 10, 2004
Posts: 125
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Hello ,
For the beta, I do not have my guidebook here.
However, you can camp in Meiringen (Oberland) and then it is a 30' drive and a 50' hike to the base.
Time of the year: would suggest not before 8 July (melting snow on the slab) and if possible before mid-August. Oberland is a place where it usually rains but the slab can dry pretty quickly.
You can train yourself for to this type of climbing on Raterichbodensee slabs (easier) which are on the way from Meringen to Motorhead and are a 15' from the road.
On Motorhead, you need a light Trad rack with a lot of quickdraws. on Ratrichbodense, 10 quickdraws should be enough.
Y.
Guidebook is Schwitz Plaisir by Jurg Von Kanel.
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ghisino
Feb 16, 2011, 10:24 AM
Post #3 of 3
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Registered: Sep 12, 2005
Posts: 249
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50' for the hike seems quite fast.
i did 2/3 of motorhead before getting a light shower on the route and rappelling (possible but not recommended...lots of sideways rappels, ropes getting stuck in the cracks, etc. The standard descent is hiking down).
its a very enjoyable route with a lot of sustained smeary laybacking in slabby corners.
You get bolted belays, 2 or 3 bolts on each pitch then it's up to your taste...
the pitches are generally quite long (40 meters).
concerning gear, i think we had some nuts plus 05-2 c4s with double red and yellow, and that seemed just perfect.
You often have endless gear placements but comfortable stances are quite rare, so it's much better if you like tu run it out a bit.
the grades are quite stiff compared to similar climbing in europe.
Pitches #2 and #3 are the most demanding overall and meant to be a "test" of your ability to complete the route.
#2 has a hairy unprotected slab start...not a massive runout nor impossible climbing but if you screw uo you'll land with your feet on a small ledge and/or have a factor 2 fall.
#3 will test your gear placing skills a bit and most of all is sustained and the hardest pitch for its grade among the ones i've climbed.
If you make your way through this two pitches without too many problems, the rest of the route will more or less feel like a path, including what looks as the mid-route crux pitch when you look at the topo.
Another thing that seems true for all eldorado routes is that the granite on the lower pitches is really slick and polished from glacier action, while as you move higher on the routes it gets more gritty and secure under your feet.
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