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How much Pain is too much?
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eric_k


Jan 4, 2011, 12:43 PM
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How much Pain is too much?
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I have a injured ring finger. Pulley tendon, or stress fracture. It has been about 6 weeks and I want to start climbing again. If I tape up my finger real well I can climb easy stuff, 5.9 and 10s, if there are no real crimpy moves. After about 15 minutes lapping the same 5.9 my finger will get sore.

I know to stop climbing if the pain is sharp or real bad in any way, but this soreness I can deal with.

In your experience is this a pain I should climb through to strengthen my hand or a sign that I need more healing time.


michael1245


Jan 4, 2011, 1:16 PM
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Re: [eric_k] How much Pain is too much? [In reply to]
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unless you're rhianna and you "like the way it hurts". I thought it was funny. Tongue

pain is your body's way of saying NO. have a doctor check it out.


jeepnphreak


Jan 4, 2011, 2:18 PM
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Re: [eric_k] How much Pain is too much? [In reply to]
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eric_k wrote:
is this a pain I should climb through to strengthen my hand or a sign that I need more healing time.

Its a sign that you F up you finger and you should have a Dr. look at it before you have a permanent injury that takes you out of the climbing game for ever.


summerprophet


Jan 4, 2011, 3:03 PM
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Re: [eric_k] How much Pain is too much? [In reply to]
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After the injury, what kind of maintenance/ repair regimine did you do?

Where exactly does it hurt? Do you have full range of motion? Any hard spots at the injury site?


eric_k


Jan 4, 2011, 3:35 PM
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Re: [summerprophet] How much Pain is too much? [In reply to]
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After the injury, I stopped climbing completely, and iced it daily and took one alive in mornings and one in the evening. I did not do anything else though.

I have full range of motion in my finger, although it hurts when I curl my finger tightly. Otherwise there is a sharp pain towards then end of my finger while crimping, and if I tape the finger well and only climb easily the finger becomes sore and stiff all over not really isolated to one area. It doesn't look like it but it still feels a little swollen.

I did not go to a doctor yet because a year ago I had a stress fracture in one of my fingers and the doctor told me there was nothing they can do about finger injuries anyway, just rest it.

Thanks for the advice so far.


aerili


Jan 5, 2011, 8:10 PM
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A stress fracture (if rested properly) should have healed in six weeks afaik. A pulley problem much less likely and therefore could take much longer to completely heal.

I think you could try to take it slowly and see how things go--like you are doing. Just adjust activity level depending on your body's pain signals. Or maybe those smarter than me with more education in this area than me will chime in with a different view.


enigma


Jan 6, 2011, 2:27 AM
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Re: [eric_k] How much Pain is too much? [In reply to]
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eric_k wrote:
I have a injured ring finger. Pulley tendon, or stress fracture. It has been about 6 weeks and I want to start climbing again. If I tape up my finger real well I can climb easy stuff, 5.9 and 10s, if there are no real crimpy moves. After about 15 minutes lapping the same 5.9 my finger will get sore.

I know to stop climbing if the pain is sharp or real bad in any way, but this soreness I can deal with.

In your experience is this a pain I should climb through to strengthen my hand or a sign that I need more healing time.

You don't mention if your doctor has given you an x-ray , I would think a good radiologist would give you a diagnosis and treatment options so you don't have to suffer in pain.
Sometimes injuries and fractures, or bone chips may not be painful until you overwork that area putting stress on it. Good Luck


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