Forums: Climbing Information: Accident and Incident Analysis:
Rope cut by Ice Screw crank
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iknowfear


Jan 5, 2011, 3:21 AM
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Registered: Sep 8, 2004
Posts: 637

Rope cut by Ice Screw crank
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Just a short heads up:
An written in the latest Berg und Steigen Magazine 4/10 (Mountain security and Risk management mag) ropes can become stuck on the cranks of ice screws and subsequently be cut in case of a fall:


They were able to reproduce the effect in a gym, fortunately in the incident, no one was injured (thanks to double ropes).

So: retract the cranks after you placed your screws, and be aware of this possibility when you place a screw with non retractable crank.

cheers!
PS: Yes, this is yet another case of the "classical" rope failure mode "sharp edge"


winglady


Jan 5, 2011, 6:33 AM
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Registered: Sep 14, 2003
Posts: 157

Re: [iknowfear] Rope cut by Ice Screw crank [In reply to]
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Very good to know...will definitely pass this along to our ice climbing partners!


lostcause


Jan 5, 2011, 6:52 AM
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Registered: Apr 22, 2004
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Re: [iknowfear] Rope cut by Ice Screw crank [In reply to]
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Thanks. That is definitely one I hadn't heard or would've thought of.


Adk


Jan 31, 2011, 6:09 PM
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Registered: Dec 2, 2006
Posts: 1084

Re: [iknowfear] Rope cut by Ice Screw crank [In reply to]
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I've always thought about this. Nice to see info on it.
This has been one thing that I look for when I follow a leader seeing that I normally second.


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