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Mixing it up
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campustrampus


Jan 6, 2011, 10:53 AM
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Registered: Apr 23, 2006
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Mixing it up
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Since it is now winter time in the northeast, many of us climbers have moved back into that sweaty, gym rat infested home away from home: the local rock gym.

After reading Dave MacLeod's book "9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes" I've been considering changing up my gym routine to try and iron out any weakness' I may have such as hard slab climbing or laybacking. So my question is: How do you go about keeping your gym climbing fresh so that you don't fall back into the same old comfort zone?


MS1


Jan 6, 2011, 12:14 PM
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Registered: Feb 24, 2009
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Re: [campustrampus] Mixing it up [In reply to]
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campustrampus wrote:
Since it is now winter time in the northeast, many of us climbers have moved back into that sweaty, gym rat infested home away from home: the local rock gym.

After reading Dave MacLeod's book "9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes" I've been considering changing up my gym routine to try and iron out any weakness' I may have such as hard slab climbing or laybacking. So my question is: How do you go about keeping your gym climbing fresh so that you don't fall back into the same old comfort zone?

Find (or set, if necessary) routes that emphasize your weaknesses. Work them. Send them. Repeat as necessary.


spikeddem


Jan 6, 2011, 12:17 PM
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Re: [MS1] Mixing it up [In reply to]
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MS1 wrote:
campustrampus wrote:
Since it is now winter time in the northeast, many of us climbers have moved back into that sweaty, gym rat infested home away from home: the local rock gym.

After reading Dave MacLeod's book "9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes" I've been considering changing up my gym routine to try and iron out any weakness' I may have such as hard slab climbing or laybacking. So my question is: How do you go about keeping your gym climbing fresh so that you don't fall back into the same old comfort zone?

Find (or set, if necessary) routes that emphasize your weaknesses. Work them. Send them. Repeat as necessary.

While doing this^^^, be very honest with yourself, despite how frustrating it can be.


saint_john


Jan 6, 2011, 12:55 PM
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Re: [campustrampus] Mixing it up [In reply to]
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In reply to:
So my question is: How do you go about keeping your gym climbing fresh so that you don't fall back into the same old comfort zone?

try to wear a new beanie whenever possible


jbk641


Jan 12, 2011, 7:46 AM
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Registered: Aug 11, 2009
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I am responding only to share what Ive recently learned through the last 6 months. Let me preface that I am no expert. I have more desire than talent. I have more time on my hands than availability of crags. I have more days to climb than people to climb with. With that I will say that in the last year I decided to take it up a notch. Bought the books, built the wall, over did the power and strenght part before correcting my fundamental flaws. MY FEET. I thought getting stronger in my grip would make up for my average feet work. It did!!!!!I probably went up 2 grades in a year but developed the most persistant climbers elbow..It would not go away now matter what I did to rehabilitate it. It finally led to me stopping climbing and gettinga steroid shot...PAIN IS GONE........to get to the point now,,,,,,,,

Lesson learned, its not a race, dont bypass the feet,dont bypass technique, climb with a partner that will encourage you to slow down, work feet, slabs, breathing, open grips, and lots of routes. The pyramid diagrams showing a large base of grades that are very doable make your technical growth more consistant. Have fun, set some goals but climb and train smart so you can climb without inury or climb so you dont have to take months off to heal from a preventable injury...


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