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aimeerose
Jan 2, 2011, 3:49 AM
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Hi-
I'm looking for a good place to sport climb in August with routes from 7c-8c. It would be great if it was kid friendly also.
I was recently told of an area called Baume du Yen (or something similar) in eastern France near the border of Switzerland. Does anyone know what I'm talking about and have any beta?
Thanks,
Aimee
PS- What's better Gorge du Tarn or Gorge du Loup?
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Kinobi
Jan 3, 2011, 9:06 PM
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In GdL you will roast.
E
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aimeerose
Jan 4, 2011, 8:40 PM
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Well, where can we go that we will not roast?
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Kinobi
Jan 4, 2011, 8:51 PM
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level of climbing? Because from 7c to 8c there is a huge difference.
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aimeerose
Jan 4, 2011, 8:58 PM
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I climb 7c+ and my husband climbs 8b+
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Kinobi
Jan 5, 2011, 11:16 AM
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Ceuse in France.
If you like the exsperience Euskadi (basque country), there are a few palces there worth visiting for people pulling hard.
Some place in Switzerland, but could be rainy already.
In doubt Email.
E
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aimeerose
Jan 5, 2011, 8:14 PM
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Euskadi would be fun. Would it be climbable mid-August for sure? Is there a town near the highest concentration of shady climbing you could suggest for staying in?
Thanks.
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Kinobi
Jan 5, 2011, 8:55 PM
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Euskadi is very small.
Anywhere you go, it's close to Donostia/San Sebastian or to Bibao.
There are some guidebooks around, I have the old one.
I have been there. Remind that climbing un august you need to go on shade...
As you see it'sw green, not much to do with the rest of Spain.
http://www.enlavertical.com/provincias/view/1029
http://www.google.it/search?q=baltzola+cueva&ie=utf-8&oe=utf-8&aq=t&rls=org.mozilla:it:official&client=firefox-a
http://www.worldtopo.com/rots.php?masn=2040
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kattagorri
Jan 10, 2011, 1:45 AM
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I think the Basque Country could be a good option. As Kinobi has said the weather is not as hot as in the south of Spain. Etxauri in Navarra, near Pamplona, is one of the best climbing areas. There are a lot of hard routes and the rock is of great quality. The worst thing is that the routes you might be interested in are south faced but you can find the shade with good routes too. It depends on what you mean by hot weather, itīs not as hot as in Gorges du Tarn, for example. In the guidebook it says that climbing is recommended the whole year. In my opinion autumn is the best season to climb there. But who knows, we havenīt got many hot days in the Basque Country.
Near Etxauri there is another climbing area called Lezaia which has got about 20 routes between 7c and 8c.
And, in Gipuzkoa there is also a very good climbing area called Araotz where there are hard routes and more shady sectors.
There are more areas which might be of your interest so, let me know if youīre interested and I can give you more info.
Hope it helps.
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Kinobi
Jan 10, 2011, 6:22 AM
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Etxauri is winter only.
You die in summer.
E
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kattagorri
Jan 10, 2011, 9:06 AM
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I donīt think Etxauri is winter only. Maybe mid August is not the ideal season to go there but as I said before it will depend on the weather. If summer is the same as last yearīs it wouldnīt be a bad choice.
Anyway, there are more climbing areas in the Basque Country and once youīre there Etxauri worths a visit (īcause we havenīt got so many hot days.)
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Kinobi
Jan 10, 2011, 10:04 AM
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I was in Etxauri a few times, only in winter. I have the guidebook with the "rolls" and red cover. What I have seen it's a south facing, pure south facing. I was climbing shirtless in December.
If you send somebody to Etxauri that climbings that level in August, i am sure he will not like you very much. These people cross the ocean to go climbing, they don't need places "where you can climb". They need "five stars" places and in "conditions".
Then, it's up to you to suggest the area.
Etxauri it's really worth a visit in August, but without carrying the rope, to avoid excessive weight on the 10 minute approach.
It there are sectorsthat I am not aware of that are north facing, let me know.
Ciao,
E
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kattagorri
Jan 10, 2011, 11:55 AM
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Iīm not saying that August is the best period to go climbing to Etxauri. But if you recommend the Basque Country as a place to climb in mid August (which I agree) depending on the weather Etxauri can be a good place for a climbing day or two. I know that climbing at that level you need special conditions, above all, a specific temperature and the best sector for that level is "kale borroka" which is south faced. A lot of sectors are south facing but you can climb early in the morning if what youīre looking for high quality routes.
Iīve got the red cover guidebook which I donīt think you get much information from. Yes the pictures are good but the information and topos are selected. I also have the last climbing guidebook of Navarra which is more complete. I tell you some sectors with hard routes where you can climb in summer: Peņa de los Canteros sector Javier Auzmendi Norte, sector Stop Norte (north facing, ideal for summer as the guidebook says); El Balcón, sector Cara Este, sector Cara Norte (shade in the afternoon)...
Again Iīm not saying that Etxauri is the best place to spend a whole summer month but itīs a place where you could climb (depending on the weather).
As you recommend the Basque Country, which climbing area were you thinking about? What do you think about Araotz?
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Kinobi
Jan 13, 2011, 11:12 AM
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I was thinking about Araotz when I suggested Euskadi.
E
http://novebi.ning.com/group/araotzsportclimbing
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kattagorri
Jan 13, 2011, 4:14 PM
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Good, we agree with Araotz. Baltzola too if you climb so hard. And, IFF (if and only if) THE WEATHER IS NOT SO HOT, Etxauri deserves a visit. You donīt get disappointed with its high quality routes.
More climbing areas?
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aimeerose
Jan 15, 2011, 5:26 AM
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Thanks for all the info. We will definitely be checking it all out. What do you think about the Baltzola cave?
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kattagorri
Jan 19, 2011, 8:36 PM
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Baltzola is ok for summer. Hard and good routes. Remember that the Basque Country is very small and you can go to any of the climbing spots we have here in an hour or two driving time. I will consider it as a summer destination.
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sinadeau
Jun 25, 2013, 5:08 AM
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And for easier climbing between 5B and 6C, what would you recommend in the Basque Country?
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kattagorri
Jun 26, 2013, 6:48 PM
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San Fausto in Estella (Navarra) is perfect, good routes with mainly sixth grades routes, a little bit crowdy but Iīm sure youīll really enjoy the climbing. Egino ( in Alava) is great too but itīs a little bit harder and more polished than San Fausto. In Etxauri (Navarra) there are also sixth grades routes but Iīll recommend it for harder routes. Atauri (Alava) is really nice too but more for seventh grades as well as Apellaniz (Alava) and Valdegovia (Alava). Iīve heard that there are new sixth grades routes in Larraona (Navarra but near Alava) but havenīt climbed there yet, so I canīt tell much about it.It will depend on where youīre staying and for how long. Let me know if you want more info.
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