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Pain in middle finger
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spooner


Jan 18, 2011, 3:49 PM
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Pain in middle finger
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Hi all, I'm new around here and thought someone might be able to give me some insight into my current injury...

Been climbling over 10 years, and was pulling a mono-undercling when I felt a slight pain in my middle finger which has had slight pains and the odd problem in the past.

Now, for the past 6 months whenever I apply a sideways force to the middle knuckle I get a severe pain in the knuckle. To clarify, hold up your right hand, place your left thumb on the thumb side of your middle finger knuckle and pull your fingertip towards you.

The finger has a slight ache when I am climbing, but doesn't really affect me too much. Has anyone seen anything similar, or know of what could be the cause? I was really hoping it was a temporary issue, and have resorted to taping to support the tendon, but that hasn't helped with the problem at all.

Thanks.


Kartessa


Jan 19, 2011, 10:26 AM
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Re: [spooner] Pain in middle finger [In reply to]
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sounds like a pulley, but I'm not a doctor.

I have the same problem with the same finger. When I broke my foot and didn't climb for 3 months, it did feel better, but once I got back on the rock, it came back with a vengeance.

Tried taping and it helps on really sore days, but the only real solution I can offer, regardless of the injury is to take some time off (a lot) to let the finger heal.


Jooler


Jan 19, 2011, 11:26 AM
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Re: [spooner] Pain in middle finger [In reply to]
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I've had that issue before. My home remedy which has helped is: don't pull it to the side. Problem solved... no really, I'm serious. You said yourself that it doesn't affect you much, so I assume it only hurts when you pull on it sideways. I haven't been in a position climbing where I'm forced to put enough pressure sideways on that one finger that has caused me any grief, so I'm sure you'll be fine too.

But perhaps seeing a doctor would be the best thing. If you do, let me know what they say!


eswanson


Jan 20, 2011, 6:39 AM
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Re: [spooner] Pain in middle finger [In reply to]
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I think I had the same problem. It sounds to me like a collateral ligament injury. It got so bad that even toweling off after a shower could send shooting pain through my finger. I went to a doctor, he had me somewhat loosely buddy tape it to the ring finger, just the very tips of the fingers. This kept me from hitting it and re-injuring the ligament. I had to tape it pretty much 24/7 for 3 weeks, then no tape for a week. That was over a year ago, and while I still have to be kind of careful, it's much better now.
Basically, Jooler is right: keep it from pulling to the side so the injury can actually heal. Also, my doctor told me to make sure I keep the range of motion, so I would open my hand as much as possible and then close it as much as possible, trying to keep the joint mobile. Hot hand baths helped too.
Good news, the doc told me that so long as whatever I did didn't hurt, it was fine. Climbing didn't hurt (might want to avoid those mono-underclings for a while), so I could keep at it. Good luck!


erclimb


Jan 20, 2011, 7:20 AM
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Re: [eswanson] Pain in middle finger [In reply to]
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unfortunately, time off is the best option with any injury...but i had a similar finger injury so i taped the middle finger to the ring finger (for anything that required 'heavy lifting', like working in the yard) so they could 'share the load' and i only climbed moderate, non-crimpy stuff...and lots of advil


altelis


Jan 20, 2011, 8:48 AM
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Re: [erclimb] Pain in middle finger [In reply to]
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erclimb wrote:
unfortunately, time off is the best option with any injury...but i had a similar finger injury so i taped the middle finger to the ring finger (for anything that required 'heavy lifting', like working in the yard) so they could 'share the load' and i only climbed moderate, non-crimpy stuff...and lots of advil

My understanding is that the use of NSAID's should be kept to a minimum in the setting of chronic soft-tissue (muscle, ligament, tendon) injuries, as they can actually inhibit healing.


dynosore


Jan 20, 2011, 9:12 AM
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Re: [spooner] Pain in middle finger [In reply to]
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spooner wrote:
Hi all, I'm new around here and thought someone might be able to give me some insight into my current injury...

Been climbling over 10 years, and was pulling a mono-undercling when I felt a slight pain in my middle finger which has had slight pains and the odd problem in the past.

Now, for the past 6 months whenever I apply a sideways force to the middle knuckle I get a severe pain in the knuckle. To clarify, hold up your right hand, place your left thumb on the thumb side of your middle finger knuckle and pull your fingertip towards you.

The finger has a slight ache when I am climbing, but doesn't really affect me too much. Has anyone seen anything similar, or know of what could be the cause? I was really hoping it was a temporary issue, and have resorted to taping to support the tendon, but that hasn't helped with the problem at all.

Thanks.

I had the exact same experience. It was collateral ligament damage. I waited too long to see a doc and they said they would have done surgery, but it was too late (too much scar tissue). Get it looked at ASAP because if your experience is anything like mine, it doesn't go away.


spooner


Jan 20, 2011, 12:52 PM
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Thanks everyone, not exactly the answers I want to hear but I think I will go see a specialist... I think I may be in a similar situation, carrying shopping in from the car hurt like crap the other day because the bag pulled my finger down.

I really hope surgery isn't the answer, I've just cleared my calendar so I can get outside climbing 4 days a week, and I was trying to leave this till the end of Summer to sort out (I'm in New Zealand). I'll try taping to the next finger, and see what the doctors verdict is...


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