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Wrist popping, slopers, strengthening?
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erisspirit


Jan 25, 2011, 10:16 AM
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Wrist popping, slopers, strengthening?
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I apologize if this is covered, I did a search, but mostly found information on wrist injures.

For pretty much my entire time climbing, if I pull hard on a sloper, my wrists will start to feel a bit like they are separating at the joint, and then sometimes pop. Usually there is only a small and painless yet disconcerting click, but on one or two occasions there has been a semi painful mighty pop.

because of this I had avoided slopers, or taped up. My doctor doesn't seem to think there is anything wrong with my wrists, so I wonder if they are mostly weak from lack of doing that particular movement.

What I am wondering is if anyone has had issues like this and have tips or were able to strengthen their wrists with stretching/ training.

thanks!


erisspirit


Jan 25, 2011, 10:18 AM
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Re: [erisspirit] Wrist popping, slopers, strengthening? [In reply to]
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doh, looks like the new injury thread has some exercise advise that i missed Unsure

**Edit to say... there were a couple tips of strengthening, but if anyone has some specific tips I'd still love to hear them


(This post was edited by erisspirit on Jan 25, 2011, 11:27 AM)


enigma


Jan 30, 2011, 9:45 PM
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Re: [erisspirit] Wrist popping, slopers, strengthening? [In reply to]
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erisspirit wrote:
doh, looks like the new injury thread has some exercise advise that i missed Unsure

**Edit to say... there were a couple tips of strengthening, but if anyone has some specific tips I'd still love to hear them

Its sounds like you might be hypermobile. You can look this up and see if you fit the profile. As for strengthening your wrists , you can use very light weights and just use wrists up and down without strain.
Good Luck


chadnsc


Jan 31, 2011, 2:36 PM
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Re: [enigma] Wrist popping, slopers, strengthening? [In reply to]
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enigma wrote:
erisspirit wrote:
doh, looks like the new injury thread has some exercise advise that i missed Unsure

**Edit to say... there were a couple tips of strengthening, but if anyone has some specific tips I'd still love to hear them

Its sounds like you might be hypermobile. You can look this up and see if you fit the profile. As for strengthening your wrists , you can use very light weights and just use wrists up and down without strain. Good Luck

Do not do this, it will not strengthen your wrists. Unsure What it will do is work your forearms.Tongue

As I'm sure you've already found some great advice on this condition I won't go into anything here.

Good luck with the rehab.


onceahardman


Jan 31, 2011, 3:18 PM
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Re: [chadnsc] Wrist popping, slopers, strengthening? [In reply to]
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chadnsc wrote:
enigma wrote:
erisspirit wrote:
doh, looks like the new injury thread has some exercise advise that i missed Unsure

**Edit to say... there were a couple tips of strengthening, but if anyone has some specific tips I'd still love to hear them

Its sounds like you might be hypermobile. You can look this up and see if you fit the profile. As for strengthening your wrists , you can use very light weights and just use wrists up and down without strain. Good Luck

Do not do this, it will not strengthen your wrists. Unsure What it will do is work your forearms.Tongue

As I'm sure you've already found some great advice on this condition I won't go into anything here.

Good luck with the rehab.

Look, enigma's posts drive me crazy, too, but in this case...

The wrist flexors, the muscle bellies of which are in the "forearms", insert into the proximal carpal row, no? And thus, cross the wrist joint? And increasing their tone provides at least a theoretical possibility of increasing the stability of the wrist joint?


(This post was edited by onceahardman on Jan 31, 2011, 3:23 PM)


dugl33


Jan 31, 2011, 5:43 PM
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Re: [onceahardman] Wrist popping, slopers, strengthening? [In reply to]
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onceahardman wrote:
chadnsc wrote:
enigma wrote:
erisspirit wrote:
doh, looks like the new injury thread has some exercise advise that i missed Unsure

**Edit to say... there were a couple tips of strengthening, but if anyone has some specific tips I'd still love to hear them

Its sounds like you might be hypermobile. You can look this up and see if you fit the profile. As for strengthening your wrists , you can use very light weights and just use wrists up and down without strain. Good Luck

Do not do this, it will not strengthen your wrists. Unsure What it will do is work your forearms.Tongue

As I'm sure you've already found some great advice on this condition I won't go into anything here.

Good luck with the rehab.

Look, enigma's posts drive me crazy, too, but in this case...

The wrist flexors, the muscle bellies of which are in the "forearms", insert into the proximal carpal row, no? And thus, cross the wrist joint? And increasing their tone provides at least a theoretical possibility of increasing the stability of the wrist joint?

Curious what your thoughts are on the theraband flexbar. I've been using it (red and green bars) for tyler twist and reverse tyler twist (elbow issues) but notice they have several "wrist" exercises in the manual.

See attached for manual. (Specifically wrist pronation, supination, ulnar deviation, radial deviation)

********
As a side note, I've found trying wrist supination with the red bar painful. Apparently there is an "extra light resistance" yellow bar, which I have not tried.
Attachments: flexbar_manual.pdf (79.5 KB)


enigma


Feb 1, 2011, 2:12 AM
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Re: [onceahardman] Wrist popping, slopers, strengthening? [In reply to]
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onceahardman wrote:
chadnsc wrote:
enigma wrote:
erisspirit wrote:
doh, looks like the new injury thread has some exercise advise that i missed Unsure

**Edit to say... there were a couple tips of strengthening, but if anyone has some specific tips I'd still love to hear them

Its sounds like you might be hypermobile. You can look this up and see if you fit the profile. As for strengthening your wrists , you can use very light weights and just use wrists up and down without strain. Good Luck

Do not do this, it will not strengthen your wrists. Unsure What it will do is work your forearms.Tongue

As I'm sure you've already found some great advice on this condition I won't go into anything here.

Good luck with the rehab.

Look, enigma's posts drive me crazy, too, but in this case...

The wrist flexors, the muscle bellies of which are in the "forearms", insert into the proximal carpal row, no? And thus, cross the wrist joint? And increasing their tone provides at least a theoretical possibility of increasing the stability of the wrist joint?

Maybe if you were on a competitive crew team and was trained by Olympic coaches and won a silver medal like my team you would understand me more.
Guess what? crew uses your wrists and that's how we strengthened them. Its pretty grueling sport especially during a race. Your wrists are moving for a constantly for an hour.
I trained 6 days per week, all year long, (indoors in winter,) we would row until Thanksgiving with ice on the docks at 5:30 am outdoors.
Indoors we sat on the rowing machine for 10,000 meters 2x per day off season at splits under 2.22. Sometimes we would row for 2.5 hours continuously.
On season we would row 2x per day for an hour at a time,on rivers with the water current often against us. as well as circuit training, etc.
Most of my coaches were Olympic rowers. If your on a team and have an injury the team can't row or forfeits a race without a replacement.
When I started climbing my coach told me not to boulder because if I broke my ankle I couldn't row.
Enough now.Tongue
I was never injured. I was trained well and lucky.
Listen to you Rehab therapist and doctor. If you are injured I wouldn't want it to get worse. Recovery first always. Feel better.


chadnsc


Feb 1, 2011, 6:30 AM
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Re: [onceahardman] Wrist popping, slopers, strengthening? [In reply to]
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onceahardman wrote:
chadnsc wrote:
enigma wrote:
erisspirit wrote:
doh, looks like the new injury thread has some exercise advise that i missed Unsure

**Edit to say... there were a couple tips of strengthening, but if anyone has some specific tips I'd still love to hear them

Its sounds like you might be hypermobile. You can look this up and see if you fit the profile. As for strengthening your wrists , you can use very light weights and just use wrists up and down without strain. Good Luck

Do not do this, it will not strengthen your wrists. Unsure What it will do is work your forearms.Tongue

As I'm sure you've already found some great advice on this condition I won't go into anything here.

Good luck with the rehab.

Look, enigma's posts drive me crazy, too, but in this case...

The wrist flexors, the muscle bellies of which are in the "forearms", insert into the proximal carpal row, no? And thus, cross the wrist joint? And increasing their tone provides at least a theoretical possibility of increasing the stability of the wrist joint?

Hmm, very good point. I apologize for jumping to conclusions.

For some reason when enigma said to 'just use wrists up and down without strain' I was envisioning someone doing a reverse wrist curl (palm down) and forcing full range of motion.

That just made me wince as I thought about the potential for straining the heck out of the wrist flexors especially when using weights. Unsure

As usual oncehardman, your advice on these topics is great. Thanks for setting me straight.


erisspirit


Feb 1, 2011, 9:21 AM
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Re: [enigma] Wrist popping, slopers, strengthening? [In reply to]
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enigma wrote:
onceahardman wrote:
chadnsc wrote:
enigma wrote:
erisspirit wrote:
doh, looks like the new injury thread has some exercise advise that i missed Unsure

**Edit to say... there were a couple tips of strengthening, but if anyone has some specific tips I'd still love to hear them

Its sounds like you might be hypermobile. You can look this up and see if you fit the profile. As for strengthening your wrists , you can use very light weights and just use wrists up and down without strain. Good Luck

Do not do this, it will not strengthen your wrists. Unsure What it will do is work your forearms.Tongue

As I'm sure you've already found some great advice on this condition I won't go into anything here.

Good luck with the rehab.

Look, enigma's posts drive me crazy, too, but in this case...

The wrist flexors, the muscle bellies of which are in the "forearms", insert into the proximal carpal row, no? And thus, cross the wrist joint? And increasing their tone provides at least a theoretical possibility of increasing the stability of the wrist joint?

Maybe if you were on a competitive crew team and was trained by Olympic coaches and won a silver medal like my team you would understand me more.
Guess what? crew uses your wrists and that's how we strengthened them. Its pretty grueling sport especially during a race. Your wrists are moving for a constantly for an hour.
I trained 6 days per week, all year long, (indoors in winter,) we would row until Thanksgiving with ice on the docks at 5:30 am outdoors.
Indoors we sat on the rowing machine for 10,000 meters 2x per day off season at splits under 2.22. Sometimes we would row for 2.5 hours continuously.
On season we would row 2x per day for an hour at a time,on rivers with the water current often against us. as well as circuit training, etc.
Most of my coaches were Olympic rowers. If your on a team and have an injury the team can't row or forfeits a race without a replacement.
When I started climbing my coach told me not to boulder because if I broke my ankle I couldn't row.
Enough now.Tongue
I was never injured. I was trained well and lucky.
Listen to you Rehab therapist and doctor. If you are injured I wouldn't want it to get worse. Recovery first always. Feel better.

I appreciate everyones comments..

just for clarification, my wrists aren't injured... I just want to get them stronger because they seem to be rather weak and maybe a little unstable on slopers specifically. I want to avoid MORE injuries

my physical therapist is for an ACL reconstruction I had 2 months ago. I am getting advice from him though anyways just because I'm paying him already. Tongue

I do still like hearing from climbers on what they do.


kachoong


Feb 1, 2011, 9:46 AM
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Re: [erisspirit] Wrist popping, slopers, strengthening? [In reply to]
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erisspirit wrote:
I apologize if this is covered, I did a search, but mostly found information on wrist injures.

For pretty much my entire time climbing, if I pull hard on a sloper, my wrists will start to feel a bit like they are separating at the joint, and then sometimes pop. Usually there is only a small and painless yet disconcerting click, but on one or two occasions there has been a semi painful mighty pop.

because of this I had avoided slopers, or taped up. My doctor doesn't seem to think there is anything wrong with my wrists, so I wonder if they are mostly weak from lack of doing that particular movement.

What I am wondering is if anyone has had issues like this and have tips or were able to strengthen their wrists with stretching/ training.

thanks!

I have had this all my climbing years too. It's nothing you should be too concerned about. I figure I was just unlucky in the wrist genetic department. I find it sometimes occurs when I crank on a sloper/ledge when my hand is fairly open and the wrist is bent.

Best thing I've found to avoid it is adjust my body, if I can, to reduce the bending of the wrist before cranking on it. Just modify the way you use slopers if you can... I find I come across the problem MUCH more in the gym than outside, so if you find this is the case also then don't worry too much about it.


erisspirit


Feb 1, 2011, 9:54 AM
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Re: [kachoong] Wrist popping, slopers, strengthening? [In reply to]
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kachoong wrote:
erisspirit wrote:
I apologize if this is covered, I did a search, but mostly found information on wrist injures.

For pretty much my entire time climbing, if I pull hard on a sloper, my wrists will start to feel a bit like they are separating at the joint, and then sometimes pop. Usually there is only a small and painless yet disconcerting click, but on one or two occasions there has been a semi painful mighty pop.

because of this I had avoided slopers, or taped up. My doctor doesn't seem to think there is anything wrong with my wrists, so I wonder if they are mostly weak from lack of doing that particular movement.

What I am wondering is if anyone has had issues like this and have tips or were able to strengthen their wrists with stretching/ training.

thanks!

I have had this all my climbing years too. It's nothing you should be too concerned about. I figure I was just unlucky in the wrist genetic department. I find it sometimes occurs when I crank on a sloper/ledge when my hand is fairly open and the wrist is bent.

Best thing I've found to avoid it is adjust my body, if I can, to reduce the bending of the wrist before cranking on it. Just modify the way you use slopers if you can... I find I come across the problem MUCH more in the gym than outside, so if you find this is the case also then don't worry too much about it.

you hit the nail on the head...I knew it couldn't just be me Sly and yes I notice this much more often in the gym than outdoors.


shurafa


Feb 7, 2011, 3:52 PM
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Re: [erisspirit] Wrist popping, slopers, strengthening? [In reply to]
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erisspirit wrote:
kachoong wrote:
erisspirit wrote:
I apologize if this is covered, I did a search, but mostly found information on wrist injures.

For pretty much my entire time climbing, if I pull hard on a sloper, my wrists will start to feel a bit like they are separating at the joint, and then sometimes pop. Usually there is only a small and painless yet disconcerting click, but on one or two occasions there has been a semi painful mighty pop.

because of this I had avoided slopers, or taped up. My doctor doesn't seem to think there is anything wrong with my wrists, so I wonder if they are mostly weak from lack of doing that particular movement.

What I am wondering is if anyone has had issues like this and have tips or were able to strengthen their wrists with stretching/ training.

thanks!

I have had this all my climbing years too. It's nothing you should be too concerned about. I figure I was just unlucky in the wrist genetic department. I find it sometimes occurs when I crank on a sloper/ledge when my hand is fairly open and the wrist is bent.

Best thing I've found to avoid it is adjust my body, if I can, to reduce the bending of the wrist before cranking on it. Just modify the way you use slopers if you can... I find I come across the problem MUCH more in the gym than outside, so if you find this is the case also then don't worry too much about it.

you hit the nail on the head...I knew it couldn't just be me Sly and yes I notice this much more often in the gym than outdoors.

This happens to me as well! Same thing wrist sometimes pops on slopers usually with no pain.


jolery


Feb 18, 2011, 12:08 PM
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Re: [erisspirit] Wrist popping, slopers, strengthening? [In reply to]
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I've had this happen to me - started on some sandbagged bouldery start route, involving a desperate undercling with the left hand, then levering off of that hard and long reach with right hand, hurt at the time. Same deal it shifts and pops. I did rehabilitate it doing some wrist curl variations - seemed to help. It happens some now but only in the bouldering gym at the top of the wall grabbing the top lip, and doesn't hurt.


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