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iknowfear
Jan 5, 2011, 11:21 AM
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Registered: Sep 8, 2004
Posts: 670
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Just a short heads up:
An written in the latest Berg und Steigen Magazine 4/10 (Mountain security and Risk management mag) ropes can become stuck on the cranks of ice screws and subsequently be cut in case of a fall:
They were able to reproduce the effect in a gym, fortunately in the incident, no one was injured (thanks to double ropes).
So: retract the cranks after you placed your screws, and be aware of this possibility when you place a screw with non retractable crank.
cheers!
PS: Yes, this is yet another case of the "classical" rope failure mode "sharp edge"
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winglady
Jan 5, 2011, 2:33 PM
Post #2 of 4
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Registered: Sep 14, 2003
Posts: 157
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Very good to know...will definitely pass this along to our ice climbing partners!
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lostcause
Jan 5, 2011, 2:52 PM
Post #3 of 4
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Registered: Apr 22, 2004
Posts: 118
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Thanks. That is definitely one I hadn't heard or would've thought of.
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Adk
Feb 1, 2011, 2:09 AM
Post #4 of 4
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Registered: Dec 2, 2006
Posts: 1085
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I've always thought about this. Nice to see info on it.
This has been one thing that I look for when I follow a leader seeing that I normally second.
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