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Leading in Blocks: Rope solo to traditional belay transfer
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tweekept


Feb 5, 2011, 2:22 PM
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Registered: Jan 31, 2011
Posts: 3

Leading in Blocks: Rope solo to traditional belay transfer
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Can someone explain in detail how to put the leader on belay after you finish cleaning the pitch. (The leader is already up the next pitch a ways soloing with his grigri.)

Does the leader tie into the end of the rope (While hanging from his piece) and disconnect his grigri, while the second restacks the rope from the first pitch & slack from the leaders rope end back to the intermediate anchor?

Cheers


charlie.elverson


Feb 5, 2011, 3:58 PM
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Registered: May 12, 2009
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Re: [tweekept] Leading in Blocks: Rope solo to traditional belay transfer [In reply to]
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In reply to:
Does the leader tie into the end of the rope

The leader remains tied into the rope while rope soloing, so there's no need to tie in.

When you get to the anchor, first secure yourself to it as you would any other anchor. Then, I put them on belay below where they tied off to the anchor. Once they are on belay, I remove the tie off knots. They are now on my belay, but still have the gri-gri hooked up.
If they are within a reasonable distance of the end of their slack, they just remove the gri gri while hanging from a piece and I take up the slack. If there is considerable slack left on their end, they pay it through their gri-gri while I take slack in.

It's important to communicate with your partner before you start removing their tie off knots. Make sure they aren't climbing upward as you're trying to untie the knots.


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