Forums: Climbing Information: Regional Discussions:
Smooth Criminal, North 40, HCR
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highstepper


Feb 9, 2011, 1:01 PM
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Registered: Jan 23, 2011
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Smooth Criminal, North 40, HCR  (North_America: United_States: Arkansas: Buffalo_National_River: Horseshoe_Canyon_Ranch)
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This brand new 5.9 sport line is two routes left of private property. During the 24HHH climbing comp. I clipped a single anchor (to save time knowing I had draws to catch me if the anchor failed) and when I called for a take the anchor bolt failed! I pulled the left bolt off the wall due to a loose nut holding it in place. Fortunately, I wasn't hurt too badly when I bounced off the nearby tree after a 20+ foot whip.

I realize that climbing at night, clipping a single anchor bolt, and not inspecting that bolt may be a poor practice, but I chose to climb this way in the interest of speed. Regardless, be careful out there! A previous post showed a similar problem on another new route called Stiff Necked Fools. Clearly, some expansion bolts are not being properly installed. The safety of new routes at HCR should not to be overlooked.


redonkulus


Feb 9, 2011, 2:36 PM
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Registered: May 2, 2010
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Re: [highstepper] Smooth Criminal, North 40, HCR [In reply to]
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I heard about this from a guy who was there actually. Said he heard a ping, and then you were airborne. Glad you didn't get too damaged.


jolery


Feb 11, 2011, 11:06 AM
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Registered: Dec 28, 2008
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Re: [highstepper] Smooth Criminal, North 40, HCR [In reply to]
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Damn! That's scary - I climbed that route in 24HHH, also climbed it a couple of weeks earlier - glad to hear you are okay - I didn't even know that happened. New routes need expansion bolts checked and retightened after a week or two.


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