Forums: Climbing Disciplines: Big Wall and Aid Climbing:
Good Rope for Big Walls?
RSS FeedRSS Feeds for Big Wall and Aid Climbing

Premier Sponsor:

 


mrbaksh


Feb 13, 2011, 8:02 PM
Post #1 of 15 (4091 views)
Shortcut

Registered: May 19, 2010
Posts: 14

Good Rope for Big Walls?
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Well, I will be climbing high-up this fall and making preps. I was wondering what would be a good impact force rope to buy. I just bought the PMI Synergy (green thing) rope. After purchasing however, I noticed the impact force is "only" 7.7kNs. I'm not expecting to fall often but if/when i do, maybe 20+ Ft of air. Did I make the right choice? I assume not, any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.


dugl33


Feb 13, 2011, 8:40 PM
Post #2 of 15 (4078 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Oct 6, 2009
Posts: 740

Re: [mrbaksh] Good Rope for Big Walls? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (1 rating)  
Can't Post

mrbaksh wrote:
Well, I will be climbing high-up this fall and making preps. I was wondering what would be a good impact force rope to buy. I just bought the PMI Synergy (green thing) rope. After purchasing however, I noticed the impact force is "only" 7.7kNs. I'm not expecting to fall often but if/when i do, maybe 20+ Ft of air. Did I make the right choice? I assume not, any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.

9.9 mm seems a bit skinny for big wall abuse. But what exactly is your concern regarding impact force? Generally lower impact forces mean a softer stop and less force on the gear, which is good, but also means more rope stretch, which is bad if you hit something you wouldn't have otherwise.

People are generally looking for beefy ropes that can take a lot of abuse for walls. Tough sheaths, low working elongation, etc. Your rope sounds like a good sport climbing rope but not the best big wall rope.


mrbaksh


Feb 13, 2011, 8:46 PM
Post #3 of 15 (4076 views)
Shortcut

Registered: May 19, 2010
Posts: 14

Re: [dugl33] Good Rope for Big Walls? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

dugl33: I just needed another climbers take on my choice. I think I'd rather go for the bulkier rope with a higher impact force. Thanks


moose_droppings


Feb 13, 2011, 9:28 PM
Post #4 of 15 (4063 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jun 7, 2005
Posts: 3348

Re: [dugl33] Good Rope for Big Walls? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

PMI says that the Synergy has a thicker sheath, which will give it more durability and help with the abuse part. Don't know if it's enough to compare to a thicker 10.5 or so rope. But It would also mean that it would have a skinnier core, so I'd go with a thicker rope too.


vegastradguy


Feb 13, 2011, 10:06 PM
Post #5 of 15 (4053 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Aug 28, 2002
Posts: 5919

Re: [mrbaksh] Good Rope for Big Walls? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (3 ratings)  
Can't Post

mrbaksh wrote:
dugl33: I just needed another climbers take on my choice. I think I'd rather go for the bulkier rope with a higher impact force. Thanks

For big walls, impact force really shouldn't be in your equation, other than all things being equal, take the rope with the lower impact force.

Go for burly sheath, thick diameter, and a reputation for toughness- Mammut Supersafe, Yates Bigwall, Sterling Marathon- these are all ropes that have a reputation as tough ropes that take a beating.


skiclimb


Feb 13, 2011, 10:45 PM
Post #6 of 15 (4042 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jan 11, 2004
Posts: 1936

Re: [mrbaksh] Good Rope for Big Walls? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (1 rating)  
Can't Post

None of this stuff will matter much if you are just doing a wall or two..

Wouldn't buy a special rope for just a week in the valley.

However if you plan to do quite a few walls then the burly 10.5s may be worthwhile


guangzhou


Feb 13, 2011, 11:03 PM
Post #7 of 15 (4036 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Sep 26, 2004
Posts: 3389

Re: [mrbaksh] Good Rope for Big Walls? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

mrbaksh wrote:
Well, I will be climbing high-up this fall and making preps. I was wondering what would be a good impact force rope to buy. I just bought the PMI Synergy (green thing) rope. After purchasing however, I noticed the impact force is "only" 7.7kNs. I'm not expecting to fall often but if/when i do, maybe 20+ Ft of air. Did I make the right choice? I assume not, any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.

I wonder what you mean by HIgh Up. Can you give us an idea of what route or area you're headed too.

Big Wall climbing is rough on ropes, but I've used thin ropes on them before. A lot of stress on the jugging end, and wouldn't last as long as a thick rope for sure, but they do work.

Again, what do you mean by high up?


desertdude420


Feb 14, 2011, 3:13 PM
Post #8 of 15 (3967 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Sep 20, 2006
Posts: 294

Re: [guangzhou] Good Rope for Big Walls? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Edelweiss Sharp 10.5mm


Partner pbcowboy77


Feb 23, 2011, 10:24 AM
Post #9 of 15 (3782 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jun 8, 2002
Posts: 574

Re: [desertdude420] Good Rope for Big Walls? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

desertdude420 wrote:
Edelweiss Sharp 10.5mm


I agree...


byran


Feb 23, 2011, 12:08 PM
Post #10 of 15 (3760 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jul 6, 2006
Posts: 266

Re: [pbcowboy77] Good Rope for Big Walls? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

If you're on a budget the 10.3 Edelweiss Ally is probably the best bang for your buck. About $90 cheaper than the Sharp, and plenty burly for wall climbing.


vegastradguy


Feb 23, 2011, 12:46 PM
Post #11 of 15 (3742 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Aug 28, 2002
Posts: 5919

Re: [byran] Good Rope for Big Walls? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

no offense to those who love the brand, but Edelweiss are probably the least durable ropes i've encountered.


desertdude420


Feb 23, 2011, 2:16 PM
Post #12 of 15 (3729 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Sep 20, 2006
Posts: 294

Re: [vegastradguy] Good Rope for Big Walls? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

vegastradguy wrote:
no offense to those who love the brand, but Edelweiss are probably the least durable ropes i've encountered.
My last Edelweiss rope lasted for 6 years and several aid/wall epics. I retired it because it was old, not because it had worn out.
Maybe the Sharp has a better sheath or something?


(This post was edited by desertdude420 on Feb 23, 2011, 2:51 PM)


Partner xtrmecat


Feb 24, 2011, 10:46 AM
Post #13 of 15 (3678 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Apr 1, 2004
Posts: 548

Re: [desertdude420] Good Rope for Big Walls? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Mammut Super Safe. 10.2, sharp edge cut resistant, UIAA test. Can you say jugg with a little better feeling. I've been beating the crap out of mine for many miles now, with only slight wear. Teflon coating on every individual core fiber makes it strong as all get out. Dry also. 8.8KN impact force with 5.7% elongation, 11-12 falls. Burly enough for my fat ass.

Only downer I can find is it is not available in a 60m wall duty rope as a bicolor.

Burly Bob


vegastradguy


Feb 24, 2011, 11:04 AM
Post #14 of 15 (3671 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Aug 28, 2002
Posts: 5919

Re: [xtrmecat] Good Rope for Big Walls? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

xtrmecat wrote:
Mammut Super Safe. 10.2, sharp edge cut resistant, UIAA test

Yeah, that test was only good for the one year it was done. Its no longer a UIAA standard and no rope carries this certification any longer.

That said, the Super Safe is a bomber wall rope and loads of folks I know use it religiously.


Partner xtrmecat


Feb 24, 2011, 11:09 AM
Post #15 of 15 (3669 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Apr 1, 2004
Posts: 548

Re: [vegastradguy] Good Rope for Big Walls? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Yes I know they discontinued the test, but anything that can resemble a warm and fuzzy feeling when jugging the line is a bonus in my book. Doesn't kill the creepy feeling you get once in a while, but when the partner says " be smooth" because of where the rope runs, I prefer to stack things in my favor.

Burly Bob


Forums : Climbing Disciplines : Big Wall and Aid Climbing

 


Search for (options)

Log In:

Username:
Password: Remember me:

Go Register
Go Lost Password?
$238.46 (10% off)
$120.02 (10% off)
$4.05 (10% off)
$40.46 (10% off)



Follow us on Twiter Become a Fan on Facebook