Forums: Climbing Information: Injury Treatment and Prevention:
Somethings not right?!?!?
RSS FeedRSS Feeds for Injury Treatment and Prevention

Premier Sponsor:

 


derrickp


Feb 18, 2011, 8:57 PM
Post #1 of 4 (782 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Mar 1, 2008
Posts: 10

Somethings not right?!?!?
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Dear Reader,
This may be a problem with a simple solution. If so, then all the better. I would like to think that my goals are not going to be cut short due to a chronic ailment.
About a year and a half ago, I started having a reoccurring pain in my arm. The pain is on the inside of my arm, opposite the elbow. It is obviously tendinitis and obviously caused by climbing. My question is not what is it but how to keep it from hindering my overall performance. In order to better help you help me, let me explain how the pain comes and goes. I climb at my best around 12a ish. I climb usually 3 days a week in gym and one outside. I usually warm up ten minutes before going hard and I spend more time on slopers than anything else. The weird part is that I can do this for almost exactly two and a half months before the pain comes rolling in. I'll climb for another two weeks before the pain is unbearable. Then I take the usual month to month and a half off. The pain is a burning sensation which will continue to worsen until about 30 minutes after I'm off the wall. Now... Here's the full question I need help about.
What can I do to continue climbing without taking breaks in my schedule? This is stopping me from moving to the next level.

Thanks in advance to any reasonable responses.

Cheers. Smile

Peppers


camhead


Feb 18, 2011, 9:33 PM
Post #2 of 4 (744 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Sep 9, 2001
Posts: 20748

Re: [derrickp] Somethings not right?!?!? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

ice. ibuprofen. warm up more. climb more statically. it will still probably hurt.


dugl33


Feb 18, 2011, 11:24 PM
Post #3 of 4 (715 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Oct 6, 2009
Posts: 740

Re: [derrickp] Somethings not right?!?!? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (1 rating)  
Can't Post

derrickp wrote:
Dear Reader,
This may be a problem with a simple solution. If so, then all the better. I would like to think that my goals are not going to be cut short due to a chronic ailment.
About a year and a half ago, I started having a reoccurring pain in my arm. The pain is on the inside of my arm, opposite the elbow. It is obviously tendinitis and obviously caused by climbing. My question is not what is it but how to keep it from hindering my overall performance. In order to better help you help me, let me explain how the pain comes and goes. I climb at my best around 12a ish. I climb usually 3 days a week in gym and one outside. I usually warm up ten minutes before going hard and I spend more time on slopers than anything else. The weird part is that I can do this for almost exactly two and a half months before the pain comes rolling in. I'll climb for another two weeks before the pain is unbearable. Then I take the usual month to month and a half off. The pain is a burning sensation which will continue to worsen until about 30 minutes after I'm off the wall. Now... Here's the full question I need help about.
What can I do to continue climbing without taking breaks in my schedule? This is stopping me from moving to the next level.

Thanks in advance to any reasonable responses.

Cheers. Smile

Peppers

Are you doing any sort of resistance training with antagonist muscle groups? I strongly suggest you consider doing so. And camhead is right. 10 minutes is not much of a warm up, and you should be icing after climbing.

Why go pedal to the metal just to blow the engine? Find a better way or you'll just keep yo-yo-ing along.


Partner j_ung


Feb 19, 2011, 5:18 AM
Post #4 of 4 (675 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Nov 21, 2003
Posts: 18687

Re: [derrickp] Somethings not right?!?!? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

^^ What he said. You just need to learn how to train smarter. Here's this, too: http://www.rockclimbing.com/...um.cgi?post=2444903;


Forums : Climbing Information : Injury Treatment and Prevention

 


Search for (options)

Log In:

Username:
Password: Remember me:

Go Register
Go Lost Password?
$17.95 (10% off)
$53.96 (10% off)



Follow us on Twiter Become a Fan on Facebook