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Glass Menagerie: Free climbing beta for pitch 5/6
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IsayAutumn


Feb 21, 2011, 7:22 AM
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Glass Menagerie: Free climbing beta for pitch 5/6  (North_America: United_States: North_Carolina: Western)
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My partner and I climbed Glass Menagerie over the weekend, trying to free climb every pitch except the 12+ and 13a pitches. We ran into some trouble on pitch 5 (if you aid the roof), which is supposed to be a 10c crack pitch with a traverse. According to the route descriptions we read, you start off in a crack, then traverse left about 25 feet or so, then head up another crack and offwidth before traversing back right to the anchors.

I led the pitch and for the life of me could not work out the moves on the traverse. I ended up having to french free the traverse, and so did my partner. Does anyone have any free-climbing beta for that traverse? I went about 40 feet up the crack before starting the traverse at a couple of fixed nuts. There was a horizontal seam that you could get a couple of small pieces of gear, but nothing great. If you kept your hands high, there were a couple of friable small crimps to use on dirty rock. If you stayed lower, the holds were clean and slopey. Maybe I'm just not used to NC slab climbing, but it seemed much harder than 10c. Anyone have any thoughts?

Also, do people really do that all in one pitch? If so, I'm impressed. I had to build an intermediate anchor right after the traverse.

Thanks!


IsayAutumn


Feb 23, 2011, 9:16 AM
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Registered: Oct 8, 2008
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Re: [IsayAutumn] Glass Menagerie: Free climbing beta for pitch 5/6 [In reply to]
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Nobody knows?


rock_fencer


Feb 23, 2011, 9:38 AM
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Re: [IsayAutumn] Glass Menagerie: Free climbing beta for pitch 5/6 [In reply to]
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haven't been on the upper pitches and very few people actually try to free this thing. Your best bets would be to try to get a hold of Chris Brown of HighExposure Photog. He's shot people freeing the whole climb and might be able to put you in touch.

see this link
http://highexposures.photoshelter.com/...8IY/P0000oLGXyxRD5h8

How dry is the NF? and how was the approach from 276


sf


Feb 23, 2011, 11:12 AM
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Registered: May 28, 2003
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Re: [IsayAutumn] Glass Menagerie: Free climbing beta for pitch 5/6 [In reply to]
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http://rockandice.com/.../708-shattered-glass

The article above mentions the traverse as being tougher to free than the grade implies. I've only done it from the comfort of etriers, and it seemed like that section had a fair number of deadheads and thin gear. I suppose the third option is to pendulum past it.


Partner camhead


Feb 23, 2011, 11:26 AM
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Re: [sf] Glass Menagerie: Free climbing beta for pitch 5/6 [In reply to]
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I've not been on GM; hope to someday. Mountainproject's comments indicate that the "10c" pitch is pretty tricky as well:

"Well yeah, I mean I freed the 13a pitch so why go back for that shitty 10d downclimb?"

"After we had both redpointed the roof we thought the route was in the bag. Then we ran into this sucker."


sf


Feb 23, 2011, 11:54 AM
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Re: [camhead] Glass Menagerie: Free climbing beta for pitch 5/6 [In reply to]
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There are many ways to slice that puppy. I think the OP is really talking about "funky" pitch 6 per the comment referenced above, as the original (aid) line goes straight from the roof to the hanging belay, bypassing the downclimb. From bottom to top, Glass Menagerie is a beautiful stretch of stone regardless of style.


(This post was edited by sf on Feb 23, 2011, 11:56 AM)


joshy8200


Feb 23, 2011, 12:03 PM
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Re: [sf] Glass Menagerie: Free climbing beta for pitch 5/6 [In reply to]
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Post up on Carolinaclimbers.org. You should be able to get help from some folks that have climbed the route.


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