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Using cams for slackline anchors?
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per.andersson


Feb 21, 2011, 12:48 PM
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Using cams for slackline anchors?
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Just curious to hear if anyone is using camming devices ("friends") for their slackline anchors. Keeping in mind the forces involved I assume they have to be dedicated for slackline use only, and not reused for climbing, which would make the prospect much less appealing, considering the cost of cams. I would also be interested to hear if anyone has broken a cam slacklining (you hear about carabiners breaking all the time, and they are much stronger). I can think of quite a few situations where cams would be useful when rigging an anchor.

Cheers
Per


NJSlacker


Feb 21, 2011, 9:39 PM
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Re: [per.andersson] Using cams for slackline anchors? [In reply to]
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I've heard that Andy Lewis has used anchors for highlines made up of several cams. I've also seen a picture of one such cam completely destroyed from a not-quite-equalized anchor.

Technically speaking, a cam is rated for forces greater than your average length/tension slackline, and approximate to those is a decent whipper. Most likely, you'd be able to find a better anchor than one made from a cam. If you do end up doing that though, better a cam, that will be easier to clean than chocks, and better to use a couple equalized so you don't destroy a cam by accident.


per.andersson


Feb 22, 2011, 12:38 AM
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Re: [NJSlacker] Using cams for slackline anchors? [In reply to]
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I finally figured out a use for my set of old second hand tricams....


ebreezy49


Aug 19, 2011, 7:52 PM
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Re: [per.andersson] Using cams for slackline anchors? [In reply to]
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Dont risk it man. One of my friends snapped a six by six wood beam holding up a roof trying to set up a line. Insane amounts of force!


Partner slacklinejoe


Aug 23, 2011, 8:53 AM
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Re: [per.andersson] Using cams for slackline anchors? [In reply to]
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per.andersson wrote:
Just curious to hear if anyone is using camming devices ("friends") for their slackline anchors. Keeping in mind the forces involved I assume they have to be dedicated for slackline use only, and not reused for climbing, which would make the prospect much less appealing, considering the cost of cams. I would also be interested to hear if anyone has broken a cam slacklining (you hear about carabiners breaking all the time, and they are much stronger). I can think of quite a few situations where cams would be useful when rigging an anchor.

Cheers
Per

Yes, folks have broken cams while settings slacklines. That said, sometimes you can't place bolts and you've got to rig somehow.

There is a considerable difference with how slacklines are used versus how our climbing protection is designed to work. Generally cams, nuts, biners and such are designed to handle shock loads up to X force and release back to body weight or low loads in a matter of seconds. A good sized highline on the other hand can dish out 1,500 lbs of force at the anchors (or considerably more depending on tension & length) just while you are sitting in place on it.

Under those type of loads many types of recreational climbing equipment can be permanently distorted (carabiners no longer closing right, stretching of aluminum etc).

While I haven't personally blown any cams on my highlines, the loads were high enough to leave permanent divots in my cams from the uneven surface. While I take it serious enough to accept that these cams are for slackline use only, others may best be served by not using cams and simply finding places were bolts already exist or where permission can be obtained to place them.

The thing you don't want to do here is use fail to use non-extending, equalized and redundant anchors or later reuse slackline hardware for climbing.


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