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breakpoint
Feb 28, 2011, 6:52 PM
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Zhenya Kazbekova did her first 5.13b in 2008. It was in Crimea's Red Stone in Ukraine, the route named "Time Ch" This is the movieof her working the route: link: http://vimeo.com/4779035 One year later she sent her fisrt 5.13d "New Konigsberg" and one week later she did her 2nd 5.13d "Zhu-zha" http://www.risk.ru/i/post/44/44080.jpg http://mountain.kz/images/2528.jpg I am inspired by this girl and she is an example how one should do reachy moves, and to stop complaining about one's small stature and "reachy move at the top"
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areyoumydude
Feb 28, 2011, 7:09 PM
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breakpoint wrote: Zhenya Kazbekova did her first 5.13b in 2008. It was in Crimea's Red Stone in Ukraine, the route named "Time Ch" This is the movieof her working the route: link: http://vimeo.com/4779035 One year later she sent her fisrt 5.13d "New Konigsberg" and one week later she did her 2nd 5.13d "Zhu-zha" http://www.risk.ru/i/post/44/44080.jpg http://mountain.kz/images/2528.jpg I am inspired by this girl and she is an example how one should do reachy moves, and to stop complaining about one's small stature and "reachy move at the top"
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spikeddem
Feb 28, 2011, 7:16 PM
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areyoumydude wrote: breakpoint wrote: Zhenya Kazbekova did her first 5.13b in 2008. It was in Crimea's Red Stone in Ukraine, the route named "Time Ch" This is the movieof her working the route: link: http://vimeo.com/4779035 One year later she sent her fisrt 5.13d "New Konigsberg" and one week later she did her 2nd 5.13d "Zhu-zha" http://www.risk.ru/i/post/44/44080.jpg http://mountain.kz/images/2528.jpg I am inspired by this girl and she is an example how one should do reachy moves, and to stop complaining about one's small stature and "reachy move at the top" Uncalled for.
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vegastradguy
Feb 28, 2011, 7:46 PM
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1) it was a video of her sending the route, not working it. fucking awesome. 2) she sent with no chalk. more awesome. (judging from one of the .13d pics, she doesnt use chalk- even more awesome) 3) do they only allow 11mm lines in the Ukraine? Look at the size of that rope in relation to her- good lord. I bet she could send .14d with a 9.2mm!
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Jooler
Feb 28, 2011, 9:16 PM
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Gonna suck when she gets tendonitis at 16 and when puberty hits and she loses strength. Enjoy your time in the lime light, young one.
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spikeddem
Feb 28, 2011, 9:18 PM
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Jooler wrote: Gonna suck when she gets tendonitis at 16 and when puberty hits and she loses strength. Enjoy your time in the lime light, young one. Wow.
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Jooler
Feb 28, 2011, 9:24 PM
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What? You think it won't suck, and will be great?
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milesenoell
Feb 28, 2011, 10:54 PM
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You aren't going to call her out on the pinkpoint?
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ENARE
Feb 28, 2011, 11:02 PM
Post #10 of 38
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Registered: Feb 8, 2011
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breakpoint wrote: Zhenya Kazbekova did her first 5.13b in 2008. It was in Crimea's Red Stone in Ukraine, the route named "Time Ch" This is the movieof her working the route: link: http://vimeo.com/4779035 One year later she sent her fisrt 5.13d "New Konigsberg" and one week later she did her 2nd 5.13d "Zhu-zha" http://www.risk.ru/i/post/44/44080.jpg http://mountain.kz/images/2528.jpg I am inspired by this girl and she is an example how one should do reachy moves, and to stop complaining about one's small stature and "reachy move at the top" She is a champ!
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Jooler
Feb 28, 2011, 11:04 PM
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Naw, really I'm just telling it like it is. Pushing kids at a young age too hard in a sport that is tendon intensive will have bad reprocussions. Just look at Cicada Jenerik. She's got mad tendonitis already.
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spikeddem
Feb 28, 2011, 11:20 PM
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Jooler wrote: Naw, really I'm just telling it like it is. Pushing kids at a young age too hard in a sport that is tendon intensive will have bad reprocussions. Just look at Cicada Jenerik. She's got mad tendonitis already. Yeah, cuz I don't know anyone that started when they were in their late teens/early twenties and doesn't have the same issue.
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milesenoell
Feb 28, 2011, 11:25 PM
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Jooler wrote: Naw, really I'm just telling it like it is. Pushing kids at a young age too hard in a sport that is tendon intensive will have bad repercussions. Just look at Cicada Jenerik. She's got mad tendinitis already. I'd think Cicada's intensive bouldering background would put her at elevated risk of tendinitis, rather than if her focus was on free. Frankly, I'd want more data on the subject before making any strong statements. Since tendinitis is common among all climbers, seeing it in young climbers doesn't seem especially damning.
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Jooler
Feb 28, 2011, 11:28 PM
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Although I have no scientific evidence about it, it just seems logical that it will set in quicker and be more extreme if established during the developing/growing stages of life. You're probably right that route climbing as opposed to bouldering will have less of an effect, though I'm sure there still will be something.
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squierbypetzl
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Mar 1, 2011, 1:30 AM
Post #15 of 38
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Crass as his post was, Jooler´s right. 13d at 12 is insane. Hopefully her parents will make her slow down for a few years, for her own sake.
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milesenoell
Mar 1, 2011, 1:34 AM
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Jooler wrote: Although I have no scientific evidence about it, it just seems logical that it will set in quicker and be more extreme if established during the developing/growing stages of life. You're probably right that route climbing as opposed to bouldering will have less of an effect, though I'm sure there still will be something. While I share your presumption that climbing hard on developing joints sounds like a path to chronic injury problems, but it all sounds so much like the arguments about risk that I have to question it. It's easy to say "wait till your grown up" but I'm not convinced that so many problems are really addressed properly by just waiting.
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guangzhou
Mar 1, 2011, 2:00 AM
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Caldwell, Katie Brown and Sharma seem to be doing quite well these days. Sounds to me like someone here is making excuses for not pushing themselves more. I remember people commenting on Sharma's lack of footwork when he first came on the scene. I think I even read he wouldn't climb beyond his eighteen birthday because he body would be to beat-up from all the dynamic moves. Is climbing hard on the body, yes. According to a report by the UIAAA named growing pains:
In reply to: Climbing and growth In one study of 90 male and female junior competition climbers, whose average age was 13.5 (a range of 10.5 to 16.5 years), the climbers were found to be at or below the 50th centile on growth velocity charts when measured for height, weight and amount of body fat. Even when these climbers were compared to athletic control subjects of identical age and gender, they were still found to be shorter, leaner and have less body fat. What was not clear was whether these competitive climbers were simply that size and shape because of selection in the first place, or from inappropriate training and dietary habits. More research needed. Investigate proper nutrition.
In reply to: Body fat The effects of high intensity training and inadequate nutrition in a lean athlete can delay their pubertal growth spurt and sexual maturation, or in severe cases, ensure that it doesn’t occur properly. Predictable hormonal changes that trigger pubertal developmental and growth cannot fully take place in an adolescent without enough body fat. It’s well known that in sports in which a www.uiaa.ch thin body is thought to be advantageous, that there is a high risk of developing the ‘female athletic triad’. This triad is characterised by menstrual cycle abnormalities, eating disorders, and premature osteoporosis (brittle bone). Excessively lean males will not produce enough testosterone essential for strength and health among other problems. Load bearing sports like climbing promote strong bone growth, which is good. However, too little body fat is independently associated with reduced bone growth and stress fractures, especially in females. There are no charts stating how much body fat a growing youngster should have, but regularly plotting their height and weight on growth charts will show how they compare with normal developmental growth. In adults we know that the minimum amount of body fat compatible with health is 12% in females, and 5% in males. Low body fat, not good. Also true on babies by the way. I'll find the link to the whole thing later. Looking at the video, this just looks like a girl doing what she enjoys. I sure her parents support her, but I am not convince they force her to climb hard. In this case, the route is hard, but it's not a campus fest, and she's using her feet quite well. Again, I think someone here is just upset that they are being outperformed by a little girl. Me, I'm impressed, this gives me a slight window into where the sport is headed.
(This post was edited by guangzhou on Mar 1, 2011, 2:03 AM)
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j_ung
Mar 1, 2011, 3:13 AM
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I like her style, but she'd climb 5.14 without all that hair weight.
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enigma
Mar 1, 2011, 4:15 AM
Post #19 of 38
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guangzhou wrote: Caldwell, Katie Brown and Sharma seem to be doing quite well these days. Sounds to me like someone here is making excuses for not pushing themselves more. I remember people commenting on Sharma's lack of footwork when he first came on the scene. I think I even read he wouldn't climb beyond his eighteen birthday because he body would be to beat-up from all the dynamic moves. Is climbing hard on the body, yes. According to a report by the UIAAA named growing pains: In reply to: Climbing and growth In one study of 90 male and female junior competition climbers, whose average age was 13.5 (a range of 10.5 to 16.5 years), the climbers were found to be at or below the 50th centile on growth velocity charts when measured for height, weight and amount of body fat. Even when these climbers were compared to athletic control subjects of identical age and gender, they were still found to be shorter, leaner and have less body fat. What was not clear was whether these competitive climbers were simply that size and shape because of selection in the first place, or from inappropriate training and dietary habits. More research needed. Investigate proper nutrition. In reply to: Body fat The effects of high intensity training and inadequate nutrition in a lean athlete can delay their pubertal growth spurt and sexual maturation, or in severe cases, ensure that it doesn’t occur properly. Predictable hormonal changes that trigger pubertal developmental and growth cannot fully take place in an adolescent without enough body fat. It’s well known that in sports in which a www.uiaa.ch thin body is thought to be advantageous, that there is a high risk of developing the ‘female athletic triad’. This triad is characterised by menstrual cycle abnormalities, eating disorders, and premature osteoporosis (brittle bone). Excessively lean males will not produce enough testosterone essential for strength and health among other problems. Load bearing sports like climbing promote strong bone growth, which is good. However, too little body fat is independently associated with reduced bone growth and stress fractures, especially in females. There are no charts stating how much body fat a growing youngster should have, but regularly plotting their height and weight on growth charts will show how they compare with normal developmental growth. In adults we know that the minimum amount of body fat compatible with health is 12% in females, and 5% in males. Low body fat, not good. Also true on babies by the way. I'll find the link to the whole thing later. Looking at the video, this just looks like a girl doing what she enjoys. I sure her parents support her, but I am not convince they force her to climb hard. In this case, the route is hard, but it's not a campus fest, and she's using her feet quite well. Again, I think someone here is just upset that they are being outperformed by a little girl. Me, I'm impressed, this gives me a slight window into where the sport is headed. Yes, she is very talented. A real acrobatic style in her movement. I think your right, people are always just a ltttle jealous of a 12 yr old girl who climb 5.14.
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JasonsDrivingForce
Mar 1, 2011, 8:28 PM
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That girl is amazing and that video was great to watch. As far as Cicada Jenerik goes the only video I have ever seen of her just showed her doing some pretty extreme stuff on a campus board at a very young age. They pulled the video down but I am willing to bet that is why she is experiencing tendon issues today. I hope she makes it back on top one day. She is still a great climber.
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guangzhou
Mar 2, 2011, 12:19 AM
Post #21 of 38
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JasonsDrivingForce wrote: That girl is amazing and that video was great to watch. As far as Cicada Jenerik goes the only video I have ever seen of her just showed her doing some pretty extreme stuff on a campus board at a very young age. They pulled the video down but I am willing to bet that is why she is experiencing tendon issues today. I hope she makes it back on top one day. She is still a great climber. Who said she has tendon issues?
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spikeddem
Mar 2, 2011, 12:31 AM
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guangzhou wrote: JasonsDrivingForce wrote: That girl is amazing and that video was great to watch. As far as Cicada Jenerik goes the only video I have ever seen of her just showed her doing some pretty extreme stuff on a campus board at a very young age. They pulled the video down but I am willing to bet that is why she is experiencing tendon issues today. I hope she makes it back on top one day. She is still a great climber. Who said she has tendon issues? Jooler.
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guangzhou
Mar 2, 2011, 12:56 AM
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spikeddem wrote: guangzhou wrote: JasonsDrivingForce wrote: That girl is amazing and that video was great to watch. As far as Cicada Jenerik goes the only video I have ever seen of her just showed her doing some pretty extreme stuff on a campus board at a very young age. They pulled the video down but I am willing to bet that is why she is experiencing tendon issues today. I hope she makes it back on top one day. She is still a great climber. Who said she has tendon issues? Jooler. Oh, we already decided he's ego is bruised because a 12 year girl climbs harder than him. She doesn't have tendon problems that we know of.
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jcrew
Mar 2, 2011, 1:07 AM
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Jooler wrote: Gonna suck when she gets tendonitis at 16 and when puberty hits and she loses strength. Enjoy your time in the lime light, young one. yeah, she's gonna suck like Ondra does now.
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Jooler
Mar 2, 2011, 1:22 AM
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jcrew wrote: Jooler wrote: Gonna suck when she gets tendonitis at 16 and when puberty hits and she loses strength. Enjoy your time in the lime light, young one. yeah, she's gonna suck like Ondra does now. Did I say she's going to suck? Or that it will suck when she gets tendonitis? She will always be good, and yea, she's better than me (but only slightly ), but she is also on a path for some painful hands in a few years.
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