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Box Springs Re-Visited!!!
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enigma


Dec 28, 2002, 11:16 AM
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Box Springs Re-Visited!!!  (North_America: United_States: California: Riverside_County: Boxsprings)
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  Climbed yesterday at Box Springs in Riverside, and there were several longer walls and many other routes than just on the main wall.
Some of the walls were about 40+ tall and there is also cracks as well. Check out the sleeper wall,and knob wall for steeper harder grades and longer routes. /The surroundings are with hills and vales,lots of green grass reminscent of a small town far away.
Would recommend another visit,especially for locals who want a quiet mellow day. Also good for leaders who are just starting to practice their technique,with some shorter routes on the main wall.


roughster


Dec 28, 2002, 2:45 PM
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Box Springs Re-Visited!!! [In reply to]
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Enigma,

Once again another great day of climbing with you, and I was glad to show you around. It was unfortunate to find out that some dickhead had stripped a few of the routes of hangers, but more on that later in a different thread.

The Main Wall is the easy target for people who go to Boxsprings, but yes, it actually doesn't represent climbing there as a whole nor is it the tallest stuff out there. The AIDS wall is probably 100-120' by my best guess, and now has been seen by a whopping 5 people, lol.

For steeper and harder stuff, the Sleepers Wall (as you saw) cannot be touched by anything else at Boxsprings thats currently developed, though much potential still exists.

I only shake my head by the fact that more people don't utilize the area. I would offer up yesterday as I prime example of what a normal day at Boxsprings can cover:

1)5.5 Sport (crimps between huge protruding chicken heads)
2)5.10c Sport (Thin vertical crimpy start, where I accidentally kung-fu kicked Enigma, S0rry about that! then up to some huge chicken heads)
3)5.7 Sport ( Slick vertical rock to a small mantle, then awkward step across over a roof)
4)5.9 Sport (Up vertical start to a series of roofs/overlaps, that is pulled by using double underclings. This leads to jugs and a cool arete)
5)5.10b Sport (Crimpy start with techincal moves, to a traverse across a blank section on small holds to an arete that is liebacked up to a horizontal to a cool mantle'ish move to more jugs and the anchors)
6)5.11a Sport (Same 1st bolt as 10b, but fires straight up crimps then a arching flake. At the end of the system a harder move leading to a horizontal and then jugs to the top)
7)5.12a Sport (A few slab moves to reach the base of a steep overlapping wall. A hard move pulling onto the first hanging section of rock, to a dynamic move to jugs, pull another over lap on crimpers, then keep bumping up to a hard throw to a pinch then a few open handed moves that ends with a toss to the top of the cliff to clip the anchors)
5.12a Sport (Same as above, heheh )

Not one of the routes were on the Main Wall and the 5.9 and 12a both are overhanging, with the .7, 10b, 11a pretty much being dead vertical. Some of them were ~40'.

From the sounds of it, the area is starting to receive more traffic as it should because it is absolutely perfect out there right now. I assume as more people get out there, some will venture beyond the Main Wall and "discover" some of the other climbing out there (IMO the better climbing anyways).

Not that you can't get a great day in on the Main Wall though. Routes anchors are esily reachable for TR set up, so you can wire them before commiting to the lead. A great place for a day of TRing or a chance for the begginning leader to do so in a controlled comfortable environment.

Anyways, enough enough. All I can say is that if you live anywhere near the Inland Empire, its worth checking out for sure. I always chuckle when I hear people say, "I live right by there and never go". All it does is show they are not willing to hike beyond the Main Wall to see the other climbing. I personally feel Boxsprings is infinately better than Rubidoux, and look of the hordes of people that spend their days TRing the same ole routes?

Heheh go figure!

[ This Message was edited by: roughster on 2002-12-28 14:46 ]


robertsdecker


Dec 29, 2002, 11:54 AM
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Found Box springs to be much more fun than Rubdioux. I don't like crowds. I found knob wall and had a great time setting up TR for a first time climber. They had a great time. I think I've created another addict.

Main wall was OK, but knob wall was much more fun and challenging. I still have a lot to discover at this place. There seems to be a lot of potential for climbing development.

Weather is awesome, almost perfect. This is one of the few seasons where so-cal is actually green. Gotta love it.


martingale


Dec 29, 2002, 2:34 PM
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Box Springs Re-Visited!!! [In reply to]
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Hey I was at Box Springs yesterday and had a blast. My partners and I stuck to the main wall and pretty much did all the routes (well.....tried to) on this wall. This was my first time there...I had never heard of this place and I only live 15 minutes away.

I also led my first sport climb on the Knob Wall.

Is there a topo to this place??


roughster


Dec 29, 2002, 2:43 PM
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Glad to hear you guys liked it. Email me at Roughit3@aol.com for a topo in PDF that details all of the routes.


mauriceb


Feb 1, 2003, 10:00 PM
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For those who haven't had the chance to check out Box Springs yet I'd recommed it. Especially for a beginner or someone not very experienced in setting TRs. Almost every climb along Main Wall Left and Right had two bolts anchors at the top and the walk up (near climb 15?) was simple.

My sense of direction isn't the best but I think the main wall is south facing so lots of sun. Friday afternoon (1/30/03) the temp had to be 90F

maurice

ps - did not see Galaxie Heights sign after turning on Two Trees. Step driveway is first available left turn though


occlimbr


Nov 7, 2003, 12:29 PM
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BoxSprings Info [In reply to]
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I cannot find knob wall or aids wall or sleepers. I am going out there sunday and want to experiance the "Real" boxsprings. any help on finding them is appreciated.


elgecko


Nov 7, 2003, 1:16 PM
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For anyone bored of the Main Wall, a fun traverse can be done starting on the left-most climb, clipping the 1rst bolt, and working your way to the right edge of the Left Side of the Main Wall, clipping bolts along the way.


roughster


Nov 7, 2003, 1:36 PM
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Re: BoxSprings Info [In reply to]
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In reply to:
I cannot find knob wall or aids wall or sleepers. I am going out there sunday and want to experiance the "Real" boxsprings. any help on finding them is appreciated.

When at the Main Wall walk West (around the "left" side). Go down the hill 50 yards, turn right 90 Degrees (Facing north now) and walk to that weird lump of rock with a small tree on the South End. When you get around the face, it is actually bigger than it looks. Lots of Knobs.

As for Sleepers Wall, I'll post more in depth walking directions in a few hours, I just saw this message as I was heading out the door.


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