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Sufficient aid rack
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esander4


Mar 1, 2011, 6:44 PM
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Sufficient aid rack
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After lots and lots of single pitch mileage, I'm finally ready to get into the bigger stuff on aid. Just wondering what all the aid veterans have to say about what a good aid rack is, and what you would add to mine. Here's what I have as of now:

Mastercam 00-3, doubles in size 00,0, and 3
Green and yellow aliens
.5-3 C4s
#1-6 DMM Dragons
Dyneema Tricams size .5-2
4-13 ABC Huevos
4-13 BD stoppers
Offset brass nuts 0-6

How much more gear will I need to do the longer routes that I'd like to? I don't have anywhere specific in mind right now, but I'm hoping to do some all day routes at the beginning of the season and squeeze in some 2 days routes along the way.


climbingtrash


Mar 1, 2011, 7:51 PM
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Re: [esander4] Sufficient aid rack [In reply to]
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esander4 wrote:
After lots and lots of single pitch mileage, I'm finally ready to get into the bigger stuff on aid. Just wondering what all the aid veterans have to say about what a good aid rack is, and what you would add to mine. Here's what I have as of now:

Mastercam 00-3, doubles in size 00,0, and 3
Green and yellow aliens
.5-3 C4s
#1-6 DMM Dragons
Dyneema Tricams size .5-2
4-13 ABC Huevos
4-13 BD stoppers
Offset brass nuts 0-6

How much more gear will I need to do the longer routes that I'd like to? I don't have anywhere specific in mind right now, but I'm hoping to do some all day routes at the beginning of the season and squeeze in some 2 days routes along the way.

I'm not an aid veteran but I have been up a couple of the aid lines here in Zion. I can tell you that the rack will vary depending on the route. You would be better off to decide on the routes you want to get on next and go from there.

Here's a quote from Bigwalls.net...

"A standard Zion free climbing rack consists of 2 or 3 sets of cams, hexes, and stoppers, plus a load of full length slings and biners. Many routes require wide crack protection, such as the Black Diamond #5 Camalot, as well as an assortment of Bigbros, tube chocks, Tricams, and/or large hexes. The trade routes and many of the free routes do not require either pitons or a bolt kit. Be prepared for very high standards on Zion routes, the ratings used are subjective and are particular to the area. Zion routes are generally given modest ratings compared to the equivalent difficulty of a climb on granite.

Nailing routes may require a bolt kit. A 3/8 " or 1/2" hand drill with 3 1/2" (or longer) bolts and hangers constitutes an anchor kit. Rawlbolts are considered the best bolts. A standard nailing rack consists of 3 or more sets of cams, loads of stoppers and brass-nuts, biners, slings, hooks, plus 3 or 4 birdbeaks, 3 to 5 knifeblades, 3 to 5 horizontals (Lost Arrows), 2 to 3 each baby angles (1/2" and 5/8"), and 1-2 each of the bigger pitons. Routes that require more nailing gear are noted below. Offwidth gear can mean several large pieces. Check the route carefully from the ground to make final rack selections. Trust your judgement and realize that route information is only an guideline to one's choice of route and rack and varies depending on individual preference.
"


moose_droppings


Mar 1, 2011, 8:18 PM
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Re: [esander4] Sufficient aid rack [In reply to]
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What you have will get you so far but to round that out you need some hooks, cam hooks, peckers and a bunch of different micro nuts. Make sure if your doing some long pitches you've got plenty of biners and slings. You can just tie off a bunch of short loops with some cord or webbing.


vegastradguy


Mar 1, 2011, 8:32 PM
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Re: [climbingtrash] Sufficient aid rack [In reply to]
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yeah, the little aid i've done is more or less a double/triple rack to 3", up to 6" on gear depending on the route. heavy on the smaller stuff.

oh, and hybrid cams- gold for places like the valley and zion.

if you're doing granite, cam hooks are nice, and a couple hooks (talon/cliffhanger) are also nice to have in general.


USnavy


Mar 1, 2011, 11:35 PM
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Re: [esander4] Sufficient aid rack [In reply to]
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esander4 wrote:
After lots and lots of single pitch mileage, I'm finally ready to get into the bigger stuff on aid. Just wondering what all the aid veterans have to say about what a good aid rack is, and what you would add to mine. Here's what I have as of now:

Mastercam 00-3, doubles in size 00,0, and 3
Green and yellow aliens
.5-3 C4s
#1-6 DMM Dragons
Dyneema Tricams size .5-2
4-13 ABC Huevos
4-13 BD stoppers
Offset brass nuts 0-6

How much more gear will I need to do the longer routes that I'd like to? I don't have anywhere specific in mind right now, but I'm hoping to do some all day routes at the beginning of the season and squeeze in some 2 days routes along the way.
It depends on what your doing, but I would say its a bit on the light side. My standard Yosemite aid rack is 3x coverage from a 000 C3 to a #3 Camalot (2x 000 actually) and normally double #4's and a single 5 if needed. Than 2x offset RP coverage and 2x standard nut coverage. Lastly I bring 2x offset cam coverage and if needed, two cam hooks and standard hooks.

Thats what I bring on the Nose. Some people bring a bit less, some bring more. But I can tell you that it really sucks to hit the crux of an aid pitch and not have what you need. It also sucks to have to leapfrog pieces through the crux, thats just downright scary for me. But to each their own. Some backclean and leapfrog all day, I just prefer not to if I dont have to.


olympicmtnboy


Mar 2, 2011, 9:28 AM
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Re: [USnavy] Sufficient aid rack [In reply to]
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What they said, it really depends on what route you want to do. That rack can get you up plenty of stuff, especially mostly free routes with a few aid moves, but might be a bit sparse for a full on long aid pitch.

I would add another set of micro nuts, fill in the small cams a bit more, add cam hooks (at least the middle two), a talon and a cliff hanger and a bird beak (for hand placing), and then you are getting somewhere. I also like ball nuts for really thin stuff. And if you are climbing anything with pin scars you will want as many offset cams as you can get and will want the larger aluminum offset nuts too (or maybe get those first).

Don't forget your partner may be able to contribute some stuff too so if you have a regular aid partner see what they have too and then fill in based on that.


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