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eswanson
Mar 3, 2011, 2:32 AM
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Registered: Mar 19, 2010
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Hey all,
So, two weeks ago I was leading in the gym. The route started on a face, switched to some roof, then back onto a face that faced 90 degrees away from the other face (basically, lots of rope drag). Anyway, as I neared the top of the second face, I came off and landed right near the lip where the roof meets the face. The belay was not very dynamic at all (not sure if I should blame the belayer or the rope drag), and I slammed my ankle hard enough to hurt pretty bad. I think, because of the angle of the route, my toes caught a hold and snapped my ankle back. In addition, because my feet landed under the lip and my face above it, I couldn't really bend my knees much without a) slamming my knees into the roof and b) slamming my face into the wall. I lowered off, iced and took some ibuprofen, and when time came to leave I walked out of the gym with virtually no pain at all. I got an x-ray a couple days after the incident, and it came back negative for major fractures. Since then, I have been walking, biking, working out, running, and even a little top-roping with little/no pain.
Now, onto the worrisome part: little things make my ankle hurt. Not a screaming hurt, but noticeable. Things like pointing my toes to put on socks. Standing on stairs as if to do calf raises (toes on the stair, heels hanging down).
Has anyone else had anything like this? I don't really have the money for an MRI or I would just get one and be done with it. Any notes on recovery time, tricks to help recovery, ways to deal with the boredom of top-roping until recovered, and most importantly, ways to get back on the lead climbing horse when the time comes? Thanks!
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edge
Mar 3, 2011, 3:01 AM
Post #2 of 10
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Registered: Apr 14, 2003
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I dunno, but personally I rarely lead in any gym. The risk vs rewards are just not there.
As for the injury, try alternating soaks in ice water and hot-as-you-can-tolerate water. Repeat for a half hour or so. I once shattered an ankle during a 25 foot lead fall on gear and my toe stuck on a slanted ledge as I contacted the rock, hyperextending my foot back until my heel bone cracked; this worked wonders for me. Otherwise I have no idea.
Best wishes for a speedy and full recovery.
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Kartessa
Mar 3, 2011, 4:18 AM
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eswanson wrote: Since then, I have been walking, biking, working out, running, and even a little top-roping with little/no pain.
Um... this may be a long shot... but maybe resting it?
(This post was edited by Kartessa on Mar 3, 2011, 4:40 AM)
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dugl33
Mar 3, 2011, 4:20 AM
Post #4 of 10
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Registered: Oct 6, 2009
Posts: 740
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eswanson wrote: Hey all, So, two weeks ago I was leading in the gym. The route started on a face, switched to some roof, then back onto a face that faced 90 degrees away from the other face (basically, lots of rope drag). Anyway, as I neared the top of the second face, I came off and landed right near the lip where the roof meets the face. The belay was not very dynamic at all (not sure if I should blame the belayer or the rope drag), and I slammed my ankle hard enough to hurt pretty bad. I think, because of the angle of the route, my toes caught a hold and snapped my ankle back. In addition, because my feet landed under the lip and my face above it, I couldn't really bend my knees much without a) slamming my knees into the roof and b) slamming my face into the wall. I lowered off, iced and took some ibuprofen, and when time came to leave I walked out of the gym with virtually no pain at all. I got an x-ray a couple days after the incident, and it came back negative for major fractures. Since then, I have been walking, biking, working out, running, and even a little top-roping with little/no pain. Now, onto the worrisome part: little things make my ankle hurt. Not a screaming hurt, but noticeable. Things like pointing my toes to put on socks. Standing on stairs as if to do calf raises (toes on the stair, heels hanging down). Has anyone else had anything like this? I don't really have the money for an MRI or I would just get one and be done with it. Any notes on recovery time, tricks to help recovery, ways to deal with the boredom of top-roping until recovered, and most importantly, ways to get back on the lead climbing horse when the time comes? Thanks!
Stop worrying, it's not serious. Seriously.
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eswanson
Mar 3, 2011, 4:23 AM
Post #5 of 10
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Registered: Mar 19, 2010
Posts: 16
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@dugl33 - but how can I be sure?!?!?!
Actually, I think it just wanted some validation. Posting seems to have made it feel better. Hahaha
@Kartessa - I did rest it in between doing those things....
In all seriousness, I'm a law student, so I already spend a disproportionate amount of time on my ass. I thought that might be enough. But maybe I need to do some hardcore resting....
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billl7
Mar 3, 2011, 4:38 AM
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Registered: Oct 13, 2005
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I dunno either, but it sounds like something one just pays attention to whether anything is aggravating the pain level, avoids those things, and watches it subside over a handful of weeks or so.
... and, dude, I agree ... it's not serious.
(This post was edited by billl7 on Mar 3, 2011, 4:39 AM)
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onceahardman
Mar 3, 2011, 12:13 PM
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Registered: Aug 3, 2007
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If you do calf raises, you get pain.
Try this:
Assuming you have no pain at rest...do 10 calf raises, then sit back down. Is it sore NOW, at rest, or does it only hurt while doing the calf raise?
If the pain doesn't stay more than 10 seconds or so after the completion of the exercise, don't worry about it. Keep doing the calf raises, and the pain will subside over time.
If you have pain at rest as a result of having done the exercise, you need to rest it longer.
It sounds like one or more ligament sprains. It hurts to put a sprained ligament on stress, but it is OK to do so if you are not increasing inflammation. If you are producing pain at rest, you are inflaming it.
If it was me, I'd back off the ibu unless I couldn't stand the pain.
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eswanson
Mar 3, 2011, 2:08 PM
Post #8 of 10
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Registered: Mar 19, 2010
Posts: 16
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Yeah, I stopped using the Vitamin I after the first day or two. Too many stories about how it slows ligament healing.
Thanks for the advice, no pain at rest after calf raises. I guess I'm good to go, just need to avoid re-injuring it.
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onceahardman
Mar 3, 2011, 11:31 PM
Post #9 of 10
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Registered: Aug 3, 2007
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In reply to: no pain at rest after calf raises
That's good.
Add some single leg stance. Balance on the injured foot as long as you can. You can make it (much) more difficult by closing your eyes while doing so.
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Builderdash
Mar 4, 2011, 1:08 AM
Post #10 of 10
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Registered: Jan 15, 2009
Posts: 50
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broke my ankle a month ago in an event unrelated to climbing. I have a fibula fracture and here's what i've been doing to stay in shape.
Have a partner climb an easy overhung lead route and lower off the top. Then they belay me from the rope end they just untied from while i tie in to the end i was just belaying them from. I then climb the route with 2 arms and 1 foot, unclipping the quickdraws as i climb.
If you make it all the way to the top then just get lowered off. If you do fall off though, you are on top rope and all the quickdraws that are clipped ensure that you don't have a wild swing away from the wall.
Disclaimer: Doc told me i could continue to do this if i wasn't using my injured foot after i explained the set up to him...while i'm sure i'm going to need to rededicate myself to my technique drills once this ankle is healed, i'm getting wicked strong and my endurance is going up.
Oh, and i do a hang board work out once a week bc there isn't much hold variety on easy lead routes, and a core one another day.
Good luck.
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