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Breaking through plateaus
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shink


Mar 7, 2011, 1:44 PM
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Breaking through plateaus
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When you feel like you've stalled, what do you do to break through the plateau?


camhead


Mar 7, 2011, 1:49 PM
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Re: [shink] Breaking through plateaus [In reply to]
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shink wrote:
When you feel like you've stalled, what do you do to break through the plateau?

I've heard that different strip mining/mountaintop removal techniques break through plateaus really well. That usually results in less rock to climb, though.


Paul_W


Mar 7, 2011, 2:07 PM
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Re: [shink] Breaking through plateaus [In reply to]
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You don't state where you climb or what level you're stalled at. Try climbing at a different place with different rock. ie. if you are climbing limestone face climbs go try and find some granite crack climbs. another thing you can do is take a week or two off and do another sport like mountain biking or running and then go back to climbing. third change up your fitness program.


shink


Mar 7, 2011, 2:42 PM
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Re: [Paul_W] Breaking through plateaus [In reply to]
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Well I wasn't really looking for specific advice, I was just curious to see different people's strategies.

Currently I climb exclusively at an indoor gym...it's the only option at the moment given the 30cm of snow covering everything. I mostly boulder, my gym doesn't use the V-scale so I'm not sure what level I'm at (if I top-rope I'm at 5.9 - 5.10). I just feel like I haven't made any improvements since early fall, and I'm eager to improve because I'm moving to Nevada in a month where I'll (hopefully) have lots of opportunity for outdoor bouldering.


Jooler


Mar 7, 2011, 2:54 PM
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Re: [shink] Breaking through plateaus [In reply to]
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Work on your technique. Take a lesson from the instructors at your gym or watch and mimic those who climb harder than you. Pick up and read the Self-Coached Climber. Climb more.


MidnightR


Mar 7, 2011, 3:01 PM
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Re: [Jooler] Breaking through plateaus [In reply to]
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Watch this, then go climb harder

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UVRDb1CBh58

xD

But seriously, it's hard not to see gains if you climb a lot. I find the most important thing is always to try punch above your level. I see people that used to be better than me, who are now worse than me, continuously climbing routes at their grade but never above it. How are you going to improve if you never push yourself?


(This post was edited by MidnightR on Mar 7, 2011, 3:05 PM)


ceebo


Mar 7, 2011, 4:24 PM
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Re: [MidnightR] Breaking through plateaus [In reply to]
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MidnightR wrote:
Watch this, then go climb harder

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UVRDb1CBh58

xD

But seriously, it's hard not to see gains if you climb a lot. I find the most important thing is always to try punch above your level. I see people that used to be better than me, who are now worse than me, continuously climbing routes at their grade but never above it. How are you going to improve if you never push yourself?


To a degree yes, but nobody can expect their body to hold up that level of performance week in week out.

If i could go back doing what i do now scaled down i would certainly have built my aerobic endurance up the grades with 1 or 2 sessions a week. Aerobic is just gold, offers so much in technique and tendon building with relitive safety. Then 1 session a week for fingerboard training to give fingers a safe controlled maximum strength build workout (not that anybody will agree). Then 1 session a month for performance climbing, just for somthing to look forward too and drive me on.

That in my honest opinion would have been the safest and most rewarding start to climbing (at least for me, being a lead climber). And something to build into a broader training plan over the years.

Ofc we all know what its like being new.. unless your climbing at your absolute limit session after session it is hard to imagine any improvements to be had.


saint_john


Mar 8, 2011, 6:53 AM
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Re: [shink] Breaking through plateaus [In reply to]
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shink wrote:
When you feel like you've stalled, what do you do to break through the plateau?

spend a couple of weeks doing only the easiest problems in your gym. focusing on technique and climb the problems over and over again. think of it like you're a gymnast working to perfect a routine.


csproul


Mar 8, 2011, 7:01 AM
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Re: [saint_john] Breaking through plateaus [In reply to]
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saint_john wrote:
shink wrote:
When you feel like you've stalled, what do you do to break through the plateau?

spend a couple of weeks doing only the easiest problems in your gym. focusing on technique and climb the problems over and over again. think of it like you're a gymnast working to perfect a routine.
That will either help...or firmly ingrain bad habits!


saint_john


Mar 8, 2011, 7:42 AM
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Re: [csproul] Breaking through plateaus [In reply to]
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csproul wrote:
saint_john wrote:
shink wrote:
When you feel like you've stalled, what do you do to break through the plateau?

spend a couple of weeks doing only the easiest problems in your gym. focusing on technique and climb the problems over and over again. think of it like you're a gymnast working to perfect a routine.
That will either help...or firmly ingrain bad habits!

yeah... it might not hurt to ask for some feedback better climbers.


shink


Mar 9, 2011, 12:03 PM
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Re: [MidnightR] Breaking through plateaus [In reply to]
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In reply to:
Watch this, then go climb harder

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UVRDb1CBh58

xD

Actually I went to see the reel rock film tour this year (and last years too) they're amazing.


bearbreeder


Mar 10, 2011, 2:21 PM
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Re: [shink] Breaking through plateaus [In reply to]
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“There are no limits. There are plateaus, and you must not stay there; you must go beyond them. If it kills you, it kills you.”

-Bruce Lee


itstoearly


Mar 14, 2011, 10:58 AM
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Re: [shink] Breaking through plateaus [In reply to]
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Start trying to climb hard 10's or easy 11's. Find ones you like or feel like you might be able to project successfully. Work on them.

I was stuck in high 10's for a good year when I was still climbing almost exclusively indoors. One day I said screw it and started trying several 5.11a's... and within a few session I had broken out of my plateau.


yuiruprup


May 15, 2011, 12:26 PM
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Re: [itstoearly] Breaking through plateaus [In reply to]
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Target your weaknesses. For example: Maybe you are good on crimps? Try sloper problems. Maybe you are good at climbing slow and static? Try dynamic problems. Maybe your endurance is bad? Climb routes.

Also, try hard problems. Problems you will definitely fail at. Don't expect to succeed immediately.

If none of this works. When you can climb outside try to have motivated partners, climb different types of rock if possible. Change it up. Keep your body guessing.


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