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indoor vs outdoor
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tylert222


Mar 8, 2011, 6:45 PM
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indoor vs outdoor
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I do mostly indoor bouldering. I have done v3 and almost a v4 in my local gym (bigrockclimbinggym.com) Would i be able to climb the same problems outdoor. What have u found out. Is an v3 indoor harder then a v3 outdoor?
The only outdoor bouldering ive done is boulder i found on private property that weren rated.


johnwesely


Mar 8, 2011, 6:56 PM
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Re: [tylert222] indoor vs outdoor [In reply to]
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tylert222 wrote:
I do mostly indoor bouldering. I have done v3 and almost a v4 in my local gym (bigrockclimbinggym.com) Would i be able to climb the same problems outdoor. What have u found out. Is an v3 indoor harder then a v3 outdoor?
The only outdoor bouldering ive done is boulder i found on private property that weren rated.

I doubt the same problems would be outdoors.


tylert222


Mar 8, 2011, 7:05 PM
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Re: [johnwesely] indoor vs outdoor [In reply to]
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yeah i know, but do you find that gym v3s are harder then outdoor v3s? or vice versa?


shockabuku


Mar 8, 2011, 7:08 PM
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Re: [tylert222] indoor vs outdoor [In reply to]
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It can depend on the gym but, in my experience, generally outdoor problems are harder than indoor ones of the same grade.


MidnightR


Mar 9, 2011, 1:26 AM
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Re: [shockabuku] indoor vs outdoor [In reply to]
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It depends on your gym. My gym during term time in London seems to set problems that are on par with or perhaps even harder than those outside of the same grade. This is quite rare however, for instance my home gym in Hull I can climb boulders 2 V grades above what I can in London.


lena_chita
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Mar 9, 2011, 8:53 AM
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Re: [tylert222] indoor vs outdoor [In reply to]
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Some gyms grade stiffly, others softly, some outdoor areas are traditionally stiff, while others are soft, so it is hard to say about your particular gym in relationship to an outdoor area that you have in mind.

But as a new climber who goes outside for the first time, you will most likely find the outdoor problems to be harder, because there is no tape marking where your feet and hands go, the rock feels very different than the gym holds, and because, all of a sudden, you are a lot more mindful of bad landings and less willing to commit to hard-for-you moves.


saint_john


Mar 9, 2011, 10:25 AM
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grades for both indoor and outdoor problems are highly subjective.


cornstateclimber


Mar 9, 2011, 10:38 AM
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same goes for taller routes too, it really depends on who did the grading, routesetting, or first ascent. grades are differnet the world around


kazanthink


Mar 9, 2011, 12:54 PM
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I climb at big rock I would say the indoor grades are slightly easier then outdoor grades (local ones at least).
I think some of that comes down to having to find the right beta while working outside since you dont have a color coded line of holds to follow.


lazymonkey


Mar 10, 2011, 3:59 PM
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Re: [kazanthink] indoor vs outdoor [In reply to]
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even if you go down a grade....its about 10x as much fun. and painful.


sp00ki


Mar 10, 2011, 5:04 PM
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Re: [tylert222] indoor vs outdoor [In reply to]
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I understand your interest in knowing first, but your best bet really is to just go try.
Everything-- from your personal ability to deal with heights/fear/scary landings, to the type of rock you'll be climbing on, to the types of problems at your gym, to the grades at your gym to the grades at your local bouldering area, etc-- will factor into how well you'll be able to transition to climbing outside.
Your best bet is to go climb. At the very least-- even if you can't send more than a chossy v1-- you'll gain some insight into climbing and learn a bit about what it means to boulder in your area.

Really, no one here can answer that. You're better off discussing this with climbers at your bouldering gym, or (even better) just visit a few nearby areas.


(This post was edited by sp00ki on Mar 10, 2011, 5:05 PM)


Masterkush


Mar 15, 2011, 12:43 AM
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get out there and climb so real rock man its so much more fun. Most people will tell you indoor climbing is alot easier which is usually the case but some places (like the gym i go to when its raining) rate there stuff really hard to get a more realistic feel to it.


FrankyFiveFingers


Mar 23, 2011, 8:30 AM
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Re: [saint_john] indoor vs outdoor [In reply to]
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saint_john wrote:
grades for both indoor and outdoor problems are highly subjective.

exactly right.....at the end of the day it breaks down to 2 grades, routes you can climb, and routes you cant.


clim.br


Mar 31, 2011, 4:48 AM
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Re: [shockabuku] indoor vs outdoor [In reply to]
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shockabuku wrote:
It can depend on the gym but, in my experience, generally outdoor problems are harder than indoor ones of the same grade.

You know, I often can climb harder grades outdoors. And I know you`re probably think "well, your gym must grade their problems lower than what they might actually be".

To be honest, I don`t go to a specific gym. I travel a lot due to my work, and I`ve climbed in these:

http://www.aiguille.com/home/index.shtml

http://www.verticalventures.com/

http://www.altitudeescalada.com.br/

and most recently on a trip to Albuquerque:

http://www.climbstoneage.com/

Indoors I climb 6s and 7s. Outdoors I`ve been able to pull one 10, and even 9s and 8s on first tries.


tylert222


Mar 31, 2011, 7:00 AM
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I went to vertical ventures in febuary....they seemed to grade their routes hard... there v2s were like v3s


ahohncke


May 12, 2011, 1:07 AM
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If it is a good gym and they know what they are doing the level of difficulty should definitely match that of any outdoor route. The only thing you have to worry about is the elements, which can always make outdoor climbing a bit different and trickier (even wind!)


chatreed


May 13, 2011, 1:54 AM
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If you really wanna have a try,just go ahead,then share your feeling later


robx


May 13, 2011, 4:20 AM
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Re: [chatreed] indoor vs outdoor [In reply to]
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I had only really bouldered at one gym, and was always surprised how well the grades matched up to the bouldering near where I live. Then I went to another gym for the first time and was bouldering a full 2 grades above what I climb at my home gym, or outside.
It made me understand what people on the internet were talking about when they bitch about gyms being easier.


ceebo


May 13, 2011, 5:58 AM
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Going from indoor to outdoor is not a physical problem (at least i found). As some already said, its the fact that you will mostly be trying to on sight routes with holds that are not so obviously marked.

Does not take long to get into that mindset though.. after a few trips outdoor the transition is as good as done. So long as your gym does not grade them really soft you will be climbing near enough the same shit.


cacalderon


May 14, 2011, 12:00 PM
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Re: [tylert222] indoor vs outdoor [In reply to]
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grades are subjective.. it depends... some gyms are stiff but in general i would guess outdoors are harder since it is not a controlled environment.


(This post was edited by cacalderon on May 14, 2011, 12:02 PM)


userdude


May 16, 2011, 3:25 AM
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Re: [johnwesely] indoor vs outdoor [In reply to]
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Now that's a great post johnwesely. No wonder you have a few thousand.
To the OP: I'm no johnwesely, but it's been my experience that outdoor grades are more accurate and not as soft as the few gyms I've climbed in.


JoeHamilton


Jul 17, 2011, 1:55 PM
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Re: [lazymonkey] indoor vs outdoor [In reply to]
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lazymonkey wrote:
even if you go down a grade....its about 10x as much fun. and painful.
greeat reply ...


flesh


Jul 22, 2011, 9:48 AM
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Re: [JoeHamilton] indoor vs outdoor [In reply to]
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I go to 4 different gyms. In my experience v8 and lower is easier inside, v9 and higher is easier outside.


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