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Finger Endurance?
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l3uddy789


Mar 9, 2011, 6:34 PM
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Finger Endurance?
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Hey RC,
I have been climbing since December prominently Bouldering in the gym. I like to work out around two hours, but lately it seems my fingers won't let me do that. What I mean by that is after about 45 minuets I just can't seem to hold onto the moves I was able to do 20 minuets ago. I first starting noticing this when I moved up from v3 to v4. Is there anything I can do like eating better, or different warm up techniques to stop this from happening.
Thanks,
Ian


gblauer
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Mar 9, 2011, 6:39 PM
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Re: [l3uddy789] Finger Endurance? [In reply to]
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Give your body time to adjust to the stresses that climbing places on your ligaments and tendons. If you keep pushing, you are likely to face injuries that will surely set you back.

As a beginner, you should probably spend some serious time on your footwork.


l3uddy789


Mar 9, 2011, 6:42 PM
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Re: [gblauer] Finger Endurance? [In reply to]
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I am kinda confused on what you are suggesting. Should I take time off to make sure I don't get injured? Climb the same but think more on footwork? Or go back to lower grades and work on footwork? Or a variation?


gblauer
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Mar 9, 2011, 6:46 PM
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Re: [l3uddy789] Finger Endurance? [In reply to]
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Couple of suggestions:

1) Buy the Self Coached Climber read it and work the drills
2) Find a mentor in the gym who can coach you and keep you from hurting yourself
3) Do a search on RC.com and look at all the posts about beginners/overuse/injuries

If it were me I would project 1 day per week and go to lower grades and work on footwork, endurance, body position etc for your other workouts. Don't forget to take some time off, your body needs recovery time.


l3uddy789


Mar 9, 2011, 6:50 PM
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Re: [gblauer] Finger Endurance? [In reply to]
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gblauer wrote:
Couple of suggestions:

1) Buy the Self Coached Climber read it and work the drills
2) Find a mentor in the gym who can coach you and keep you from hurting yourself
3) Do a search on RC.com and look at all the posts about beginners/overuse/injuries

If it were me I would project 1 day per week and go to lower grades and work on footwork, endurance, body position etc for your other workouts. Don't forget to take some time off, your body needs recovery time.

Thanks for the info. I never thought about making a routing about projecting and what not how you explained.


jbro_135


Mar 9, 2011, 7:39 PM
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Re: [l3uddy789] Finger Endurance? [In reply to]
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Moving on to the higher grades means you are going to start using progressively smaller or more difficult holds. It takes time for your muscles and tendons to strengthen. Often people who are fairly athletic and in good shape can quickly move through the lower grades, but you shouldn't expect your improvement to continue at the same pace as you start getting on harder problems.

In order to continue getting better you're going to have to start working on technique as others have suggested. The self coached climber is a great resource for technique drills. It will also introduce you to periodized, sport-specific training, which is arguably the best way to improve your performance.

If you're just coming to the internet for a quick piece of advice that will help you right now, here it is:

Slow down, spend more time honing your skills on climbs that are not at your limit, and take lots of rest days.


DouglasHunter


Mar 11, 2011, 12:42 PM
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Re: [l3uddy789] Finger Endurance? [In reply to]
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Base building should be a high priority, and what others have suggested will help in that. My question for you is how many V3s can you do in one session if you focus just on the goal of doing V3s? Same goes for V2s. Also with so little time climbing you need to assume that you are making a lot of mistakes in your movement and approach to boulder problems. Unless you are the rare exception you are doing more things wrong that you are doing right. Keep that in mind, becoming competent should be a primary goal but its not a goal that can be achieved by thinking in terms of grades alone.


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