Forums: Climbing Disciplines: Alpine & Ice:
Do stubbies really work?
RSS FeedRSS Feeds for Alpine & Ice

Premier Sponsor:

 


darkside


Nov 15, 2001, 8:37 PM
Post #1 of 6 (1286 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Sep 14, 2001
Posts: 1687

Do stubbies really work?
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

  stubbies hold beer fine but I prefer long necked bottles.

Length of a screw would appear to be less of an issue than the quality of the surface ice and angle placed. Author and climber Craig Luebben tested various screws to failure and found the strength was similar for all lengths but with poor surface ice, shorter screws would pull out whereas longer screws may bend first then break or pull out. Basically stubbies are less predictable so go for longer screws unless the ice is solid and non-aerated or thin ice.

BD spectres seem to be the stronger of hooks available but all hooks fail with strengths a lot lower than screws.

There are a lot of variables with ice pro so be careful and educate yourself.

NOTE: the original post has been deleted. As with the forum title it asked for a comparison with ice screw lengths. There were also some other comments which may be why the post was deleted.

[ This Message was edited by: darkside on 2002-01-31 23:42 ]


passthepitonspete


Nov 16, 2001, 3:15 PM
Post #2 of 6 (1286 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Oct 9, 2001
Posts: 2183

Do stubbies really work? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Frig. I thought you were talking about sawed-off 5/8" angles which work extremely well, but I see it's to do with ice climbing, which is not exactly my bailiwick.

Personally, I don't know my adze from a hole in the ground.

Duh.


andy_lemon


Nov 18, 2001, 7:59 PM
Post #3 of 6 (1286 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Sep 6, 2001
Posts: 3335

Do stubbies really work? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Quote:If you fall, your off the team

What... is that some kind of joke? If you haven't fell, then you sure as heck are not on any climbing team. Teams are about pushing your limits... which means falling is unavoidable unless you are not at your limit.

There is a great story... too long for me to tale... it involves a climber on ice and the rock pulled out from the under ice... too much weight... SPLAT! Not a very fun story but this kind of thing happens.


kman


Nov 28, 2001, 4:05 AM
Post #4 of 6 (1286 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Oct 16, 2001
Posts: 2561

Do stubbies really work? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

"adze from a hole in the ground"


graniteboy


Dec 2, 2001, 6:38 PM
Post #5 of 6 (1286 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Dec 1, 2001
Posts: 1091

Do stubbies really work? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Short screws suck. I had the unique opportunity to take an 80 foot ground fall (first lead fall on ice after 20 years playing the game) because of short screws and spectres. Luckily, I walked away. First rule in ice; don't fall. second rule: don't trust yer pro if you do. 3rd rule; this ain't no cute little rock gym, so pay attention.


larryclimb


Jan 1, 2002, 1:58 PM
Post #6 of 6 (1286 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jan 16, 2000
Posts: 89

Do stubbies really work? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Glad to hear you walked away Granitboy and am hear to tell your story.
While climbing at Lake Willoughby Sat I had some short screws bottom out. Got the file out and am ready to go again.


Forums : Climbing Disciplines : Alpine & Ice

 


Search for (options)

Log In:

Username:
Password: Remember me:

Go Register
Go Lost Password?
$76.46 (10% off)
$16.16 (10% off)
$107.96 (10% off)
$17.95 (10% off)



Follow us on Twiter Become a Fan on Facebook