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Ladies Strength and Weakness in Climbing?
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enigma


Mar 11, 2011, 5:11 PM
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Ladies Strength and Weakness in Climbing?
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While not necessarily gender specific, seems like women have some difficulty with reachy moves and perhaps some overhangs.
Perhaps height specific, so taller women would have less issue. Overhangs difficulty due to upper body strength, do you think?
Though because many women have good flexibility , and smaller hands we are often better at thin finger cracks.
There is also some advantage due to strength to weight ratio. Obviously being 95 pounds is easier to pull yourself up, even with less muscle.
What are your personal strengths and weakness when it comes to climbing? Any particular type of climbs are easier to do for the grade?
For instance I'm better at laybacks than a very pumpy roof.
So what are your personal strengths or weakness in climbing? Which climbs are easier and harder for you to do within the same grade? Do you believe it is gender specific?


gblauer
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Mar 11, 2011, 8:41 PM
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Re: [enigma] Ladies Strength and Weakness in Climbing? [In reply to]
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Overhanging jug fests
Roofs

Forget the thin facey stuff for me, I have no technique whatsoever.


granite_grrl


Mar 12, 2011, 5:33 AM
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Re: [gblauer] Ladies Strength and Weakness in Climbing? [In reply to]
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You kick ass Gail.

I think I'm best at slightly overhanging endurance climbs, hopefully with larger moves in there to keep it interesting.

I'm not very good at it, but I love power endurance routes with a strong dose of power. Super fun, and a huge sense of achievement when I finally work and string together the power moves.

Used to like that slabby stuff, but my legs haven't really been up to it for a number of years. I'm cool with that, who wants to push themselves on a routes that you're just going to cheese grater down when you fall?


smallclimber


Mar 13, 2011, 3:36 PM
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Re: [enigma] Ladies Strength and Weakness in Climbing? [In reply to]
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I think women tend to be better at bridging/stemming than men. Certainly this is one thing I have over my husband.
He has a much greater reach than me, however I can use lower hand holds than him. For example a useful hold for me at chest height is down around his waist and less useful. Despite our remarkably different physics we appear to have reached a very comparable level of coimbing. And interestingly this applies to a number of other sports we do as well.


enigma


Mar 16, 2011, 12:00 AM
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Re: [smallclimber] Ladies Strength and Weakness in Climbing? [In reply to]
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smallclimber wrote:
I think women tend to be better at bridging/stemming than men. Certainly this is one thing I have over my husband.
He has a much greater reach than me, however I can use lower hand holds than him. For example a useful hold for me at chest height is down around his waist and less useful. Despite our remarkably different physics we appear to have reached a very comparable level of coimbing. And interestingly this applies to a number of other sports we do as well.
That is something I never thought of, I guess I always feel like taller people have the advantage. I went climbing today and was climbing with some tall skinny guy his reach was so much easier.
Whereas the more crimpy , balancy, and high steps are easier for me.
I'm trying to concentrate on sustained overhangs at a moderate level so build more strength .


enigma


Mar 16, 2011, 12:23 AM
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Re: [granite_grrl] Ladies Strength and Weakness in Climbing? [In reply to]
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granite_grrl wrote:
You kick ass Gail.

I think I'm best at slightly overhanging endurance climbs, hopefully with larger moves in there to keep it interesting.

I'm not very good at it, but I love power endurance routes with a strong dose of power. Super fun, and a huge sense of achievement when I finally work and string together the power moves.

Used to like that slabby stuff, but my legs haven't really been up to it for a number of years. I'm cool with that, who wants to push themselves on a routes that you're just going to cheese grater down when you fall?

I've done alot of liebacks and am good at them, however those handjams and turning your hand in place of gear in sharp rock It hurts. A friend of mine got stuck and he dislocated his shoulder , he was just hanging there. for hours . He never recovered fully.

Slabby stuff do you mean completely polished with no friction ,granite girl?


nessie


Mar 16, 2011, 3:28 AM
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Re: [enigma] Ladies Strength and Weakness in Climbing? [In reply to]
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something to think about....In the book 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes by D.MacLeod small people are referred to as LUCKY LITTLE ONES!!!Three cheers for us...there is almost always a way to reach although alot of the time we need to go more dynamic and that requires alot of training but hey, when the experts call us lucky.....it must be true!Smile


enigma


Mar 16, 2011, 8:59 AM
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Re: [nessie] Ladies Strength and Weakness in Climbing? [In reply to]
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nessie wrote:
something to think about....In the book 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes by D.MacLeod small people are referred to as LUCKY LITTLE ONES!!!Three cheers for us...there is almost always a way to reach although alot of the time we need to go more dynamic and that requires alot of training but hey, when the experts call us lucky.....it must be true!Smile
Cool My fingers are small so some of the cracks are easier, maybe the reachy climbs I need to figure out a different way. ?


nessie


Mar 16, 2011, 9:35 AM
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Re: [enigma] Ladies Strength and Weakness in Climbing? [In reply to]
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Well, I am extremely lucky to get alot of coaching from 3 fabulous long time climbers...One for strength and 2 for technique- for my height it means alot of footwork, putting my feet higher or working on friction only and heaps of dynamic moves as well. I'm still only a beginner, climbing since just under 2 years now,and about a year ago i was really frustrated due to not reaching untill these guys and their wisdom came along..I hope it helps you too!


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