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iamgeniey


Mar 13, 2011, 8:23 AM
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how to train when....
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say....
you live >3.5 hours away from the nearest crag, and you really don't like that crag....the better ones are >6hrs away.
you are incredibly busy with work.
the gym that is ten minutes away from you lacks volume and quality, and it is almost always flooded with rats who talk talk talk.
the nearest quality gym is ~2hrs away, but you're incredibly busy with work, and when you're not, you're hitting whatev crag you can.
relocating is not an option.
building a wall is not an option.
buildering can only maintain its charm for so long, and in your town, a crappy option.
and you become progressively irritated by noobs who act like they climb outside all the time or have a wealth of knowledge about the sharp end.... when usually, you couldn't care less, but now your ipod is your savior. and you wonder if you're becoming a jerk towards these people because that isn't your intention....not really.
and you read climbing magazines and dream of the day you can live those photos.
and you have a break or make 20 page paper up for publishing at the end of April, and you have completed only six pages.

How Do You Train?


spikeddem


Mar 13, 2011, 8:36 AM
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Re: [iamgeniey] how to train when.... [In reply to]
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Excuses overload. Get over it.

As far as time management goes, if you're publishing a paper you shouldn't need us to tell you how to prioritize.


iamgeniey


Mar 13, 2011, 8:46 AM
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i'm asking, how do you train without a gym and without a crag while balancing a busy schedule. perhaps that's all i should have said, but i needed to vent, so i wrote everything out.


Kartessa


Mar 13, 2011, 9:04 AM
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Re: [iamgeniey] how to train when.... [In reply to]
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iamgeniey wrote:
i'm asking, how do you train without a gym and without a crag while balancing a busy schedule. perhaps that's all i should have said, but i needed to vent, so i wrote everything out.

You have to be honest with yourself and maybe you need to take a hiatus from climbing until you can start eliminating some of those excuses.


ceebo


Mar 13, 2011, 10:23 AM
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I find it hard to believe that the bouldering and sport gym offer you no option, you don't have to stick to their routes. I also find it hard to understand how you have no room to at least use a hang board/campus board or build a small wall even if it has to be self standing in the yard.

I have visited some extremely poorly maintained gym walls in my area. 1 that sticks in my mind, their appeared to be no instructors their ever. As a result the holds were terrible, the word grease does not describe it.. i put my fingers on one particular hold and i felt them SINK in by half a cm. I would be surprised if your gyms are anything close to that in regards to quality.

If that was the only gym within my reach, the obvious thing to do would be to take it upon myself to voluntarily clean some holds and set a few routes. I could have worked something out with the leisure centre staff concerning entry fee. It would ultimately become my own personal gym.. for the sake of a bit scrubbing power.

I bet you have options but have not thought of, or can not be bothered act on them.


singletrackmike


Mar 13, 2011, 12:05 PM
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Motivation dude! You either have it or you don't. If you do, you find multiple ways to train. Hang from door jams. Do laps on stairs. Do 100 deep knee bends, Fifty push-ups. Whatever you can until you can climb on a regular basis.
If you don't have motivation, you post what you did,


theguy


Mar 13, 2011, 1:52 PM
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This reminds me of something... ah yes

...this :)


crjanow


Mar 13, 2011, 4:55 PM
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Re: [theguy] how to train when.... [In reply to]
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if you cant move and you dont live near rock maybe you should not be a rock climber. try bodybuilding.


Kartessa


Mar 13, 2011, 6:23 PM
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But i want to rock climb like real bad.


KeitaroHoshi


Mar 13, 2011, 7:51 PM
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Re: [iamgeniey] how to train when.... [In reply to]
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iamgeniey wrote:
say....
you live >3.5 hours away from the nearest crag, and you really don't like that crag....the better ones are >6hrs away.
you are incredibly busy with work.
the gym that is ten minutes away from you lacks volume and quality, and it is almost always flooded with rats who talk talk talk.
the nearest quality gym is ~2hrs away, but you're incredibly busy with work, and when you're not, you're hitting whatev crag you can.
relocating is not an option.
building a wall is not an option.
buildering can only maintain its charm for so long, and in your town, a crappy option.
and you become progressively irritated by noobs who act like they climb outside all the time or have a wealth of knowledge about the sharp end.... when usually, you couldn't care less, but now your ipod is your savior. and you wonder if you're becoming a jerk towards these people because that isn't your intention....not really.
and you read climbing magazines and dream of the day you can live those photos.
and you have a break or make 20 page paper up for publishing at the end of April, and you have completed only six pages.

How Do You Train?

I feel your pain.
What about all those times that you applied at that backcountry camping store. They always say oh we arn't hiring right now then a few weeks later they have like 4 new employees. All of which don't know anything about living on the edge. Or should I say ledge. Then after a few years of the noobs acting like they are the crim de la crim, and you traveling all over the place thousands of miles to what you have read about and living as a prestine outdoorsman
for many years and devoloping a wealth of climbing knowledge. Then suddenly you are dismissed and branded as stupid.
Now you are stronger than them and thats when they start to try to get rid of you.
They are scared of you.
They all want to see you fight.
They want to outcast you.

I have found that I acculy do better at climbing when I admit that someone is a much better climber and try to learn from them. (Not some noob who trys to get you to dought your abillitys and after you leave immedatly begin to scrutinize and talk trash about you.) Hey one day you might even get to punch the gym owner in his mouth and nock out his teeth.
If the people at the gym are stupid then the owner is probably the reason why.
They don't like you and you don't like them!
Now you may be outnummbered, but it dosn't matter. You are a beautiful and strong person. You are the center of the universe. Now get back in there and dominate over those dweebs. There is a grand world out there. Many climbing companies, lots of logos. Those are all spectular things. Do something spectular create your own person. Go to the top of the tallest thing and think about how much higher you are than everyone else think about how great it is to be high. sit back and sleep. When you wake up
you can look down thousands of feet below you.
And know you are in control. You are the Sensi master. Act like it.

Do you want to train? Do it right. Wake up before the sun. Tai Chi. Use the cool early morning light to streach and excersice. When the sun breaks the horsizen it becomes blinding, so move on to a shady area. Go indoors clean your home. Work less grow more. Did you know that small amounts of gardening has the cabibality reduce stress levels in large quantitys. Maby you need a change in climbing friends.
What would you say to 5.8? in April?
PM me for a training regiment.


(This post was edited by KeitaroHoshi on Mar 13, 2011, 7:57 PM)


theguy


Mar 13, 2011, 8:10 PM
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Re: [Kartessa] how to train when.... [In reply to]
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...and being a tough Canadian you found a way even in the greasepit that is Rattlesnake Point. Angelic

Maybe the OP should try BJJ instead of boydbuliding, then he can "get back in there and dominate over those dweebs" Tongue


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