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Single rope multi pitch sport route, Amiright?
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jughead


Mar 15, 2011, 10:41 PM
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Single rope multi pitch sport route, Amiright?
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I've been climbing single pitch sport for about 6 or 7 years now (+ gym rat years makes 10) and I'm rather bored.
Theres several multipitch routes near me and I have my sights set on a two pitch well within my grade.

However I've never done a proper course in multipitch, (just sport single) I've asked several instructors at my local gyms,
the guides in the gorge,
read several books (including john longs book on anchors)
and tried the first anchor out at ground level, and successfully on a single pitch hanging belay (just lowered the second then abseiled myself off) and it seemed rock solid to me...
tell me if I'm right or what I could do better, safer, quicker etc.

I currently have two thoughts...

(staples or ring bolts in both cases)

firstly

Tried and tested, pretty certain...

get to top, quickdraw on one bolt, clip in sling girthed to belay loop to other
call slack
clove hitch on a locker onto quickdraw bolt, adjust tension, get comfy
Call safe, off belay
remove quickdraw (keep things tidy, not needed)
sliding x with lockers on both bolts
either belay direct off the x with a locker and reverso (or similiar)
OR
locker onto the x and belay indirect off my loop

?

second anchor

Just a thought...

top of first pitch
quickdraw in one bolt

take sliding x with locking biners (and two knots) into two bomber bolts, clove hitch self to a locker on the focal point, backup loose end of clove hitch with a figure 8 on bight locked into a knot higher on the X.

pull up slack, clip rope into a locker on the focal point of the X then onto my atc on my belay loop.
belay the second on his way up.

when he gets there he does the same as I on opposite side, close, bight backup.

swap belay

I use a sling girthed to my harness and take the load off my clove to untie easy, transfer weight to belayer as I remove the sling, climb on

(Im worried thisll just be slower and not as easy to back up and be safer + too much going on on the X alone, or maybe Im just paranoid)

?

Thoughts? do you think they're safe? efficient?

Any offhand tips for the abseil down would be appreciated though I'll save that subject for another thread.

And no I don't plan on going out and doing this tomorrow based off one bit of E-advice :)

Help appreciated

(it's worth knowing I did work in this gorge for a period of time so I know the quality of the anchors and what awaits me up there)


(This post was edited by jughead on Mar 15, 2011, 10:48 PM)


jt512


Mar 15, 2011, 11:34 PM
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Re: [jughead] Single rope multi pitch sport route, Amiright? [In reply to]
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jughead wrote:
I've been climbing single pitch sport for about 6 or 7 years now (+ gym rat years makes 10) and I'm rather bored.
Theres several multipitch routes near me and I have my sights set on a two pitch well within my grade.

However I've never done a proper course in multipitch, (just sport single) I've asked several instructors at my local gyms,
the guides in the gorge,
read several books (including john longs book on anchors)
and tried the first anchor out at ground level, and successfully on a single pitch hanging belay (just lowered the second then abseiled myself off) and it seemed rock solid to me...
tell me if I'm right or what I could do better, safer, quicker etc.

I currently have two thoughts...

(staples or ring bolts in both cases)

firstly

Tried and tested, pretty certain...

get to top, quickdraw on one bolt, clip in sling girthed to belay loop to other
call slack
clove hitch on a locker onto quickdraw bolt, adjust tension, get comfy
Call safe, off belay
remove quickdraw (keep things tidy, not needed)
sliding x with lockers on both bolts
either belay direct off the x with a locker and reverso (or similiar)
OR
locker onto the x and belay indirect off my loop

?

second anchor

Just a thought...

top of first pitch
quickdraw in one bolt

take sliding x with locking biners (and two knots) into two bomber bolts, clove hitch self to a locker on the focal point, backup loose end of clove hitch with a figure 8 on bight locked into a knot higher on the X.

pull up slack, clip rope into a locker on the focal point of the X then onto my atc on my belay loop.
belay the second on his way up.

when he gets there he does the same as I on opposite side, close, bight backup.

swap belay

I use a sling girthed to my harness and take the load off my clove to untie easy, transfer weight to belayer as I remove the sling, climb on

(Im worried thisll just be slower and not as easy to back up and be safer + too much going on on the X alone, or maybe Im just paranoid)

?

Thoughts? do you think they're safe? efficient?

Any offhand tips for the abseil down would be appreciated though I'll save that subject for another thread.

And no I don't plan on going out and doing this tomorrow based off one bit of E-advice :)

Help appreciated

(it's worth knowing I did work in this gorge for a period of time so I know the quality of the anchors and what awaits me up there)

WTF?

My first thought was "Another victim of American education," but . . . you're British!

Jay


(This post was edited by jt512 on Mar 15, 2011, 11:52 PM)


lithiummetalman


Mar 16, 2011, 12:32 AM
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Re: [jughead] Single rope multi pitch sport route, Amiright? [In reply to]
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2 bolt anchor?

Sliding X works. (Be sure to tie in limiters if doing so)

Take into consideration, will you be leading the next pitch or swapping with the second?

There are many ways of anchoring in. (Hot topic of debate)


An example (I use this if I know that the bolts are bomber). This works for both swaps and blocks. (This will open a can of worms)

I'm speculating this is multi-pitch sport?


-Get to anchor (Usually hardest part)

-quick draw- one hand clove hitch into first bolt
-PAS* - clip into second bolt (put a free quickdraw as well on same bolt, make sure it's under the PAS biner or fig 8 on a bight biner...need pic to explain)
-*If no PAS I fig 8 on a bight into the second bolt.
-Adjust clove hitch so you're somewhat tensioned equalized btw both bolts tighten down clove hitch firmly when set!
-Call off belay or tug 3 times hard
-When off, pull in rope coiled over tether (keep that rope organized!)

-Belay off harness with rope redirected through the free quickdraw on second bolt.

-Second arrives at station, he or she turns the redirected rope on second quickdraw on bolt 2 into a clove hitch (one hand)

-Second uses PAS or fig 8 on a bight to clip into bolt 1 (separate biner) and readjust to be somewhat equalized btw the 2 bolts. Make sure that clove hitch is firmly set.


Decide who's leading.


If second is leading-

-Keep ATC on, with rope in it (Don't take it off when the second arrived at the belay), you can mule knot the rope for a triple redundancy in system.
-Follow previous section on second anchoring in.
-Rerack if needed
-Clove hitch is freed on the second quickdraw but rope is redirected free on second quickdraw (Basically clipping a first piece....yes i know it's on the anchor)
-Put light tension on the rope on the second after the rope has been redirected through the basket, lock off
-Second's PAS or fig 8 on bight off first bolt
-Second goes up up and away (clip that next bolt,rawl,cam,nut,bong,can pronto!)


If you're leading

-Rerack if needed
-flip coiled rope from your tether(organization is king here!) upside down and put over second's tether.
-Second put's you on belay (mule knot for triple redundancy if needed)
-Undo your clove hitch on first bolt but redirect free through same quickdraw (basically your first piece....I know on anchor)
-Make sure second is in lock off mode
-Undo PAS /fig 8 on bight system from second bolt (make sure this is above the second quickdraw b/c if not. the second quickdraw bolt biner will be loaded ontop of the PAS or fig 8 biner making it a PITA to undo)
-go up up and away (clip that next bolt,rawl,cam,nut,bong,can pronto!)


This is one of many systems out there, I'm not advocating as the best or worse, but I like this system b.c

-Always anchored into 2 points
-Don't ever have to retie the rope or swap. Always tied in.
-It's quick, easy to see where everything is
-redundant


If anymore questions go ask a professional guide!!! There alot of experienced folks on this site and out there with good info.

Better yet, take some good anchoring classes or find some old aid climbers; treat them to some beer and/or spliff and promise to carry all their gear, and hopefully learn something!


(This post was edited by lithiummetalman on Mar 16, 2011, 12:37 AM)


jt512


Mar 16, 2011, 1:06 AM
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Re: [lithiummetalman] Single rope multi pitch sport route, Amiright? [In reply to]
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lithiummetalman wrote:
2 bolt anchor?

Sliding X works. (Be sure to tie in limiters if doing so)

Take into consideration, will you be leading the next pitch or swapping with the second?

There are many ways of anchoring in. (Hot topic of debate)


An example (I use this if I know that the bolts are bomber). This works for both swaps and blocks. (This will open a can of worms)

I'm speculating this is multi-pitch sport?


-Get to anchor (Usually hardest part)

-quick draw- one hand clove hitch into first bolt
-PAS* - clip into second bolt (put a free quickdraw as well on same bolt, make sure it's under the PAS biner or fig 8 on a bight biner...need pic to explain)
-*If no PAS I fig 8 on a bight into the second bolt.
-Adjust clove hitch so you're somewhat tensioned equalized btw both bolts tighten down clove hitch firmly when set!
-Call off belay or tug 3 times hard
-When off, pull in rope coiled over tether (keep that rope organized!)

-Belay off harness with rope redirected through the free quickdraw on second bolt.

-Second arrives at station, he or she turns the redirected rope on second quickdraw on bolt 2 into a clove hitch (one hand)

-Second uses PAS or fig 8 on a bight to clip into bolt 1 (separate biner) and readjust to be somewhat equalized btw the 2 bolts. Make sure that clove hitch is firmly set.


Decide who's leading.


If second is leading-

-Keep ATC on, with rope in it (Don't take it off when the second arrived at the belay), you can mule knot the rope for a triple redundancy in system.
-Follow previous section on second anchoring in.
-Rerack if needed
-Clove hitch is freed on the second quickdraw but rope is redirected free on second quickdraw (Basically clipping a first piece....yes i know it's on the anchor)
-Put light tension on the rope on the second after the rope has been redirected through the basket, lock off
-Second's PAS or fig 8 on bight off first bolt
-Second goes up up and away (clip that next bolt,rawl,cam,nut,bong,can pronto!)


If you're leading

-Rerack if needed
-flip coiled rope from your tether(organization is king here!) upside down and put over second's tether.
-Second put's you on belay (mule knot for triple redundancy if needed)
-Undo your clove hitch on first bolt but redirect free through same quickdraw (basically your first piece....I know on anchor)
-Make sure second is in lock off mode
-Undo PAS /fig 8 on bight system from second bolt (make sure this is above the second quickdraw b/c if not. the second quickdraw bolt biner will be loaded ontop of the PAS or fig 8 biner making it a PITA to undo)
-go up up and away (clip that next bolt,rawl,cam,nut,bong,can pronto!)


This is one of many systems out there, I'm not advocating as the best or worse, but I like this system b.c

-Always anchored into 2 points
-Don't ever have to retie the rope or swap. Always tied in.
-It's quick, easy to see where everything is
-redundant


If anymore questions go ask a professional guide!!! There alot of experienced folks on this site and out there with good info.

Better yet, take some good anchoring classes or find some old aid climbers; treat them to some beer and/or spliff and promise to carry all their gear, and hopefully learn something!

Incredible. It's like the guy is talking to himself.


jughead


Mar 16, 2011, 11:17 AM
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Re: [jt512] Single rope multi pitch sport route, Amiright? [In reply to]
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jt512 wrote:
lithiummetalman wrote:
2 bolt anchor?

Sliding X works. (Be sure to tie in limiters if doing so)

Take into consideration, will you be leading the next pitch or swapping with the second?

There are many ways of anchoring in. (Hot topic of debate)


An example (I use this if I know that the bolts are bomber). This works for both swaps and blocks. (This will open a can of worms)

I'm speculating this is multi-pitch sport?


-Get to anchor (Usually hardest part)

-quick draw- one hand clove hitch into first bolt
-PAS* - clip into second bolt (put a free quickdraw as well on same bolt, make sure it's under the PAS biner or fig 8 on a bight biner...need pic to explain)
-*If no PAS I fig 8 on a bight into the second bolt.
-Adjust clove hitch so you're somewhat tensioned equalized btw both bolts tighten down clove hitch firmly when set!
-Call off belay or tug 3 times hard
-When off, pull in rope coiled over tether (keep that rope organized!)

-Belay off harness with rope redirected through the free quickdraw on second bolt.

-Second arrives at station, he or she turns the redirected rope on second quickdraw on bolt 2 into a clove hitch (one hand)

-Second uses PAS or fig 8 on a bight to clip into bolt 1 (separate biner) and readjust to be somewhat equalized btw the 2 bolts. Make sure that clove hitch is firmly set.


Decide who's leading.


If second is leading-

-Keep ATC on, with rope in it (Don't take it off when the second arrived at the belay), you can mule knot the rope for a triple redundancy in system.
-Follow previous section on second anchoring in.
-Rerack if needed
-Clove hitch is freed on the second quickdraw but rope is redirected free on second quickdraw (Basically clipping a first piece....yes i know it's on the anchor)
-Put light tension on the rope on the second after the rope has been redirected through the basket, lock off
-Second's PAS or fig 8 on bight off first bolt
-Second goes up up and away (clip that next bolt,rawl,cam,nut,bong,can pronto!)


If you're leading

-Rerack if needed
-flip coiled rope from your tether(organization is king here!) upside down and put over second's tether.
-Second put's you on belay (mule knot for triple redundancy if needed)
-Undo your clove hitch on first bolt but redirect free through same quickdraw (basically your first piece....I know on anchor)
-Make sure second is in lock off mode
-Undo PAS /fig 8 on bight system from second bolt (make sure this is above the second quickdraw b/c if not. the second quickdraw bolt biner will be loaded ontop of the PAS or fig 8 biner making it a PITA to undo)
-go up up and away (clip that next bolt,rawl,cam,nut,bong,can pronto!)


This is one of many systems out there, I'm not advocating as the best or worse, but I like this system b.c

-Always anchored into 2 points
-Don't ever have to retie the rope or swap. Always tied in.
-It's quick, easy to see where everything is
-redundant


If anymore questions go ask a professional guide!!! There alot of experienced folks on this site and out there with good info.

Better yet, take some good anchoring classes or find some old aid climbers; treat them to some beer and/or spliff and promise to carry all their gear, and hopefully learn something!

Incredible. It's like the guy is talking to himself.


What's your problem?

Firstly the first anchor set up is the way I've been shown both by an instructor and the chap responsible for bolting the majority of this gorge and whom also wrote the guidebook for it.
I am always equalized between both bolts which I know are solid on this route because I worked for a year cleaning the gorge.
when the second gets there all he needs do is clip his cows tail and backup with a clove opposite to me.

its all equal, redundant, solid etc. and I've used it lower down with no problems on an indirect belay.

the second one is just me thinking aloud at 5am which I think is wrong because there's too much relying on the two slings for the X & there isn't enough redundancy there but still, I'd like to hear other thoughts that aren't being arrogant and obnoxious perhaps you could say something useful instead of just trying to enhance your E-ego?


Rudmin


Mar 16, 2011, 1:20 PM
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Re: [jughead] Single rope multi pitch sport route, Amiright? [In reply to]
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It's sport climbing not brain surgery. If you have a reasonable understanding of how carabiners and ropes and slings work and you take a few seconds to think before you act, it is unlikely for a beginner to screw up in a fatal way. Most likely mistake is taking too long (which is fine on 2 pitches) and building a CF which is how you learn.

Also spend a few seconds considering what is attached to what as you untie any knots or unclip any carabiners.


dan2see


Mar 16, 2011, 1:43 PM
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Re: [Rudmin] Single rope multi pitch sport route, Amiright? [In reply to]
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Rudmin wrote:
It's sport climbing not brain surgery. If you have a reasonable understanding of how carabiners and ropes and slings work and you take a few seconds to think before you act, it is unlikely for a beginner to screw up in a fatal way. Most likely mistake is taking too long (which is fine on 2 pitches) and building a CF which is how you learn.

Also spend a few seconds considering what is attached to what as you untie any knots or unclip any carabiners.

Always make sure that you are always attached to the rock. No matter what you are doing or undoing, no matter whose turn it is to move, make sure you are always attached to the rock. And your partner, too!

You can clip to a ring, tie to a bolt, anything you like. Redundant is good. Just make sure you are always attached to the rock.

When you are managing the belay at the top of a pitch, you have to clip stuff, and unclip stuff. Try to keep it simple, and keep thinking about what you're doing there. If you're like me, you're sure to forget something, or do something useless. But if both climbers are still connected, then you won't fall off.

Always stay connected. To me, that's how the phrase "play safe" begins.


jughead


Mar 16, 2011, 2:22 PM
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Re: [dan2see] Single rope multi pitch sport route, Amiright? [In reply to]
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dan2see wrote:
Rudmin wrote:
It's sport climbing not brain surgery. If you have a reasonable understanding of how carabiners and ropes and slings work and you take a few seconds to think before you act, it is unlikely for a beginner to screw up in a fatal way. Most likely mistake is taking too long (which is fine on 2 pitches) and building a CF which is how you learn.

Also spend a few seconds considering what is attached to what as you untie any knots or unclip any carabiners.

Always make sure that you are always attached to the rock. No matter what you are doing or undoing, no matter whose turn it is to move, make sure you are always attached to the rock. And your partner, too!

You can clip to a ring, tie to a bolt, anything you like. Redundant is good. Just make sure you are always attached to the rock.

When you are managing the belay at the top of a pitch, you have to clip stuff, and unclip stuff. Try to keep it simple, and keep thinking about what you're doing there. If you're like me, you're sure to forget something, or do something useless. But if both climbers are still connected, then you won't fall off.

Always stay connected. To me, that's how the phrase "play safe" begins.

That's my thinking... I like to be into at least to pieces, equalised whenever I'm doing anything to feel safe.

In reply to:
Tried and tested, pretty certain...

get to top, quickdraw on one bolt, clip in sling girthed to belay loop to other
I'm on a sling on my harness, and the belayer's got me on the other bolt

call slack
clove hitch on a locker onto quickdraw bolt, adjust tension, get comfy
Call safe, off belay
remove quickdraw (keep things tidy, not needed)
now I've removed the belayer from the equation and I'm still off my sling but backed up with the clove hitch and my tie in point which I can adjust to distribute the weight evenly, still tied in to both bolts, no shockload should either go

sliding x with lockers on both bolts

either belay direct off the x with a locker and reverso (or similiar)
OR
locker onto the x and belay indirect off my loop
I'm paranoid so I'm likely to be using two slings in my x knotted so that there's multiple tie in points off the slings should the bolts be crowded, I'm either going to be belaying direct off the bolts with two slings in a sliding x and all locking karabiners and dangling myself off two seperate tie in points on the same bolts OR I'll still have my seconds weight on the x whilest I'm belaying indirect.
once hes up, slung and hitched in I can start to come off and transfer onto his belay

At no point do I see where either of us will be tied in to any less than both the available bolts


jeepnphreak


Mar 17, 2011, 9:16 AM
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Re: [jughead] Single rope multi pitch sport route, Amiright? [In reply to]
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What with the hard on for the sliding x.
you have a two bolt anchor.... correct? Go back to John Long's anchor book, go to the back of the book and look up the "quad". reasons:

1. simpler than you method

2. stronger than your method

3. more work space at the anchor.

4. self equalizing as well.


redlude97


Mar 17, 2011, 10:23 AM
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Re: [jeepnphreak] Single rope multi pitch sport route, Amiright? [In reply to]
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jeepnphreak wrote:
What with the hard on for the sliding x.
you have a two bolt anchor.... correct? Go back to John Long's anchor book, go to the back of the book and look up the "quad". reasons:

1. simpler than you method

2. stronger than your method

3. more work space at the anchor.

4. self equalizing as well.
Or....just use 2 quickdraws....Its a freakin bolted sport route


bearbreeder


Mar 17, 2011, 1:35 PM
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Re: [jeepnphreak] Single rope multi pitch sport route, Amiright? [In reply to]
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jeepnphreak wrote:
What with the hard on for the sliding x.
you have a two bolt anchor.... correct? Go back to John Long's anchor book, go to the back of the book and look up the "quad". reasons:

1. simpler than you method

2. stronger than your method

3. more work space at the anchor.

4. self equalizing as well.

read john's book for the chapter on sliding x where he says its perfectly fine for bolt anchors


potreroed


Mar 17, 2011, 9:35 PM
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Re: [jughead] Single rope multi pitch sport route, Amiright? [In reply to]
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You've been climbing for 10 years and never done a multi-pitch? Get on it, mate, just do it, NOW, quit procrastinating!


notapplicable


Mar 17, 2011, 10:52 PM
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jughead wrote:
...I'd like to hear other thoughts that aren't being arrogant and obnoxious perhaps you could say something useful instead of just trying to enhance your E-ego?


Prepare to have your mind blown!

http://www.rockclimbing.com/..._reply;so=ASC;mh=25;


Not really sure why people feel the need to so dramatically over-engineer a two bolt anchor but it makes for interesting reading nonetheless.


KeitaroHoshi


Mar 18, 2011, 5:52 AM
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Suprisingly enough...

talked on the subject of pitch length and or rope length.
You will need twice the amuont of rope per pitch if you want to rappel down.

If the pitch is 100 feet tall then you need 200 feet of rope to rappel.

50 meters is 165 feet
60 meters is 200 feet

My very first trad lead was a little bit taller than 100 feet.
When I reached the anchor I had to tie two ropes together and rappel down both of them.

If I owned a 70 meter. It would have been possiable
to find the center of the rope and rappel down the single rope.

I use two ropes - a lead line, and a static line(clipped to the back of the harness). When I reach a rappel anchor I clip in and then tie the ropes together with a figure 8 follow thru knot.
Rappel both strands.
Simmilar to folding a single rope in half and rappeling both sides of the same rope.

Double ropes and twin ropes are different than my set up, twin ropes are accually two lead lines.

I only have one lead line and one haul line.
Note: research rope drag and the rope shortening effects of a zigzaging climb.


csproul


Mar 18, 2011, 6:35 AM
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KeitaroHoshi wrote:
Suprisingly enough...

talked on the subject of pitch length and or rope length.
You will need twice the amuont of rope per pitch if you want to rappel down.

If the pitch is 100 feet tall then you need 200 feet of rope to rappel.

50 meters is 165 feet
60 meters is 200 feet

My very first trad lead was a little bit taller than 100 feet.
When I reached the anchor I had to tie two ropes together and rappel down both of them.

If I owned a 70 meter. It would have been possiable
to find the center of the rope and rappel down the single rope.

I use two ropes - a lead line, and a static line(clipped to the back of the harness). When I reach a rappel anchor I clip in and then tie the ropes together with a figure 8 follow thru knot.
Rappel both strands.
Simmilar to folding a single rope in half and rappeling both sides of the same rope.

Double ropes and twin ropes are different than my set up, twin ropes are accually two lead lines.

I only have one lead line and one haul line.
Note: research rope drag and the rope shortening effects of a zigzaging climb.
My cat's breath smells like catfood!


camhead


Mar 18, 2011, 6:42 AM
Post #16 of 19 (4083 views)
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Registered: Sep 9, 2001
Posts: 20656

Re: [KeitaroHoshi] Single rope multi pitch sport route, Amiright? [In reply to]
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KeitaroHoshi wrote:
Suprisingly enough...

talked on the subject of pitch length and or rope length.
You will need twice the amuont of rope per pitch if you want to rappel down.

If the pitch is 100 feet tall then you need 200 feet of rope to rappel.

50 meters is 165 feet
60 meters is 200 feet

My very first trad lead was a little bit taller than 100 feet.
When I reached the anchor I had to tie two ropes together and rappel down both of them.

If I owned a 70 meter. It would have been possiable
to find the center of the rope and rappel down the single rope.

I use two ropes - a lead line, and a static line(clipped to the back of the harness). When I reach a rappel anchor I clip in and then tie the ropes together with a figure 8 follow thru knot.
Rappel both strands.
Simmilar to folding a single rope in half and rappeling both sides of the same rope.

Double ropes and twin ropes are different than my set up, twin ropes are accually two lead lines.

I only have one lead line and one haul line.
Note: research rope drag and the rope shortening effects of a zigzaging climb.

Did you have to free-hang you're own anchor with chocks and pitons, or were their bolted abseil stations already secured? How did you get your gear back down?

I have read Freedom of the Hills twice and am comfortable setting up topropes up to 5.9.


Rudmin


Mar 18, 2011, 7:40 AM
Post #17 of 19 (4064 views)
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Re: [camhead] Single rope multi pitch sport route, Amiright? [In reply to]
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camhead wrote:
I have read Freedom of the Hills twice and am comfortable setting up topropes up to 5.9.

What happens above 5.9?


jeepnphreak


Mar 18, 2011, 12:16 PM
Post #18 of 19 (4018 views)
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Registered: Jul 28, 2008
Posts: 1259

Re: [bearbreeder] Single rope multi pitch sport route, Amiright? [In reply to]
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bearbreeder wrote:
jeepnphreak wrote:
What with the hard on for the sliding x.
you have a two bolt anchor.... correct? Go back to John Long's anchor book, go to the back of the book and look up the "quad". reasons:

1. simpler than you method

2. stronger than your method

3. more work space at the anchor.

4. self equalizing as well.

read john's book for the chapter on sliding x where he says its perfectly fine for bolt anchors

Im not saying that the sliding X is not a viable choice. But I prefer other methods. I like the quad because it gives a large work space at the anchor, a bit better than the X IMHO. Evan dropping 2 locking draws works on the bolts.


Partner cracklover


Mar 18, 2011, 2:26 PM
Post #19 of 19 (3988 views)
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Re: [jughead] Single rope multi pitch sport route, Amiright? [In reply to]
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Your first method sounds fine. I don't understand your second method. Maybe it's fine, maybe not. I can't visualize it from what you're saying.

I haven't done this in a while, but off the top of my head, here's what I'd do:

Assuming the pitch stops on a ledge
-----------------------------------------
1 - clip two draws into the two bolts, opposite and opposed, and clove hitch my rope into the two rope-end biners.
2 - call down "off belay"
3 - adjust length of clove hitch to be able to see partner
4 - set up belay for partner however makes the most sense, and call down "you're on belay"

Assuming a hanging belay
------------------------------
1 - clip into the first bolt, yell down "take"
2 - clip in direct to second bolt (use a sling or whatever)
3 - call down "slack" (you are now hanging directly from bolt 2.)
4 - unclip from first bolt and clove hitch directly to it.
5 - call down "off belay"
6 - same as step 4 in first method.

Trying to give tips on rapelling is too complicated, sorry. But do make sure of these things:
1 - don't drop the rope
2 - don't unclip yourself from the anchor until you've weighted the rappel
3 - don't let your partner unclip you from the anchor by accident

Cheers,

GO


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